LIBRARY 

OF  THE 

University  of  California. 

-1                                                       GIFT    OF 

.   Class     '\j                                  {J 

DEPARTMENT  OF  COMMERCE  AND  LABOR 
COAST  Ai\D  geoi)p:tic  survev 

SUPEBINTENDENT 


ALASI^A 

COAST  PILOT  XOTES  ON  BEIIING  SEA 
AND  ARCTIC  OCEAN 


(Replaces  Bulletin  No.  40) 


NOVEMBER    20,   1908 


i 


WASHINGTON 

OOVERNMENT    PRINTING    OFFICK 
1909 


DEPARTMENT  OF  COMMERCE  AND  LABOR 

XI  S.   COAST  AND   GP:0DETIC  SURVEY 


SUPERINTENDENT 


ALASKA 


COAST  PILOT  NOTES  ON  BERING  SEA 
AND  AECTIC  OCEAN 


{Replaces  Bulletin  No.  40) 


NOVEMBER;   £?0,   1908 


'  *    •        *>*   I 


WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT   PRINTING    OFFICE 
1909 


»•  •      '  »  . 


DEPARTMENT  OF  COMMERCE  AND  LABOR, 

Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey, 
Washington,  D.  C,  November  20,  1908. 
The  information  contained  in  this  publication  relates  to  the  Sannak  Islands,  Fox  Islands 
Passes,  Unalaska  Bay,  the  coast  and  islands  of  Bering  Sea  eastward  and  northward  of  Fox 
Islands  Passes,  and  the  Arctic  Ocean  as  far  as  Point  Barrow,  and  replaces  Bulletin  No.  40. 
This  publication  has  been  compiled  from  reports  from  vessels  of  the  Coast   and  Geodetic 
Survey,  United  States  Navy,  United  States  Revenue  Cutter  Service,  and  United  States  Fish 
Commission,  from  Mr.  S.  Applegate,  and  from  all  other   available  sources.     To  these  must 
be  added  the  information  supplied  b}^  Lieut.  D.  H.  Jarvis,  U.  S.  R.  C.  S.,  who  was  detailed 
by  the  United  States  Revenue  Cutter  Service  for  this  duty,  and  revised  the  first  and  second 
editions  of  Bulletin  No.  40. 

The  first  edition  of  Bulletin  No.  40  was  issued  May  4,   1899.     In  this  publication  the 
available  information  to  date  has  been  added.     It  has  been  prepared  by  Mr.  Herbert  C.  Graves 
under  the  direction  of  J.  J.  Gilbert,  Assistant,  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  Inspector  of  Hydrog- 
raphy and  Topography.  :'...'•.  •  :'• 

As  absolute  accuracy  in  a  work  of  this  cl8,Bp  is  scarcely  possible,  navigators  will  confer 
a  favor  by  notifying  the  Superintendent  of  the  Coast  aad  Gooootic  Survey  of  errors  which 
they  may  discover,  or  of  additional  matter  which  they  tKink  stbuld  be  inserted  for  the  infor- 
mation of  mariners. 

O.  H.  TITTMAKJSr, 

Superintendent. 


218535 


N^OTE. 


The  courses  and  bearings  given  in  degrees  are  true,  reading  clockwise  from  0°  at  north 
to  360°,  and  are  followed  by  the  equivalent  magnetic  value  in  points  in  parentheses. 
Distances  and  velocities  of  currents  are  in  nautical  miles. 


ALASKA. 
COASr  PILOT  NOTES  ON  .BERING  SEA  AND  ARCTIC  OCEAN. 


TIDES. 

Tide  tables  for  the  Pacific  Coast  of  the  United  States,  including  British  Columbia  and 
Alaska,  are  published  annually  by  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  predicting  the  times  and 
heights  of  tides  for  every  day  in  the  year. 

On  the  coast  of  Alaska,  including  Bering  Sea  and  the  Arctic  Ocean,  there  are  usually 
two  unequal  high  waters  and  two  unequal  low  waters  during  the  lunar  day,  the  irregularity 
varying  principally  with  the  declination  of  the  moon.  When  the  moon  is  near  the  equator 
the  tides  are  generally  nearly  equal  and  have  the  least  diurnal  range.  When  the  moon  is  near 
its  greatest  declination  (farthest  north  or  south)  the  tides  are  very  unequal,  and  are  called 
tropic  tides.  At  such  times  the  difference  between  the  higher  high  and  lower  low  water  is  the 
great  tropic  range,  which  is  usually  the  greatest  range  for  the  month. 

In  Norton  Sound  the  tides  are  chiefly  diurnal,  from  the  fact  that  the  inequality  in  the 
tides  when  the  moon  is  near  its  greatest  declination  is  increased  to  such  an  extent  that  the 
minor  tides  of  the  day  (lower  high  water  and  higher  low  water)  disappear,  and  but  one  high 
water  and  one  low  water  occur  during  the  lunar  day.  When  the  moon  is  near  the  equator, 
however,  there  are  generally  two  high  waters  and  two  low  waters,  more  or  less  unequal,  during 
the  lunar  day,  but  the  range  of  the  tides  is  comparatively  small. 

VARIATION  OF  THE  COMPASS. 

The  magnetic  variations  for  1910  and  armual  decrease  at  points  mentioned  are  as  follows: 


LOCALITY. 


Variation 
E. 


Cape  Pankof 

Unimak  Pass 17% 

Unalaska  Bay 17 

Amukta  Pass 14 

St.  George  Island i  *16 

St.  Paul  Island *16 

Port  Moller 20 

Cape  Constantine 21i<4 

Cape  Newenham i  20 

West  of  Nunivak  Island  (1.5  miles) '  17J^ 

Cape  Upright,  St.  Matthew  Island i  151^ 

Cape  Chibukak,  St.  Lawrence  Island. . .  16]^ 

East  of  St.  Lawrence  Island  (35  miles). i  ISJ^ 

Cape  Romanzof  - ,  18j2 

St.  Michael i  213^ 

Unalaklik 1  22}^ 

Cape  Darby I  21i^ 


LOCALITY. 


Cape  Nome 

Sledge  Island 

Point  Spencer 

King  Island 

Diomede  Islands 

East  Cape 

West  of  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  (5  miles) 

Cape  Espenberg 

Chamisso  Island,  Kotzebue  Sound 

Cape  Blossom 

Point  Hope 

Cape  Lisburne 

Point  Lay 

Icy  Cape 

Point  Belcher 

Point  Franklin 

Point  Barrow 


Variation.!   Annual 
£.         decrease. 


20H 

193^ 

19M 

19 

19 

18M 

19^ 

22>^ 

23  J^ 

23H 

22 

23 

26 

27 

28M 

29H 

31H 


5 
5 
5 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 
6 
7 
7 
8 
8 
9 
9 
10 


*  Localities  of  local  disturbance. 


» 


b  ALASKA. 

SANNAK  ISLANDS 

are  the  southwestern  islands  of  the  groups  off  the  southern  side  of  the  Alaska  Peninsula.  They 
consist  of  two  large  islands,  Sannak  and  Caton  islands,  and  a  great  number  of  small  islands 
and  rocks  southward  of  the  former,  203^  miles  long  and  lOK  miles  wide,  and  all  bare  of  trees. 
Sannak  Mountain,  at  the  northwest  end  of  Sannak  Island,  is  the  prominent  object  seen  in 
approacliing  the  group,  and  is  about  3  miles  long  and  1  mile  wide.  It  is  a  central  peak  (Sannak 
Peak),  1,700  feet  high,  in  latitude  54°  28'  N.,  longitude  162°  45'  W.,  with  a  shoulder  on  its  east 
side  about  1,300  feet  high  and  one  on  its  west  side  about  700  feet  high.  At  A}/^  miles  eastward 
from  Samiak  Peak  this  ridge  again  rises  to  over  200  feet,  but  all  the  remainder  of  the  group 
is  but  little  over  100  feet  high  on  the  northern  side,  decreasing  to  less  than  40  feet  high  among 
the  islands  and  rocks  forming  the  south  side. 

From  time  to  time  sunken  rocks  and  breakers  have  been  reported  in  numerous  localities 
northward  and  northwestward  of  Sannak  Islands;  no  definite  information  can  be  given  about 
them,  but  their  reported  positions  are  shown  on  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  Chart  8860. 
Crowley  Rock  is  the  only  known  danger.  The  eastern  end  of  Caton  Island,  the  eastern  end  of 
the  group,  is  fringed  with  reefs  and  breakers  to  a  distance  of  over  1  mile.  With  perhaps  the 
exception  of  Peterson  Bay,  the  entire  south  side  of  Sannak  Islands  is  dangerous  for  a  stranger  to 
approach,  especially  the  southwest  end.     The  principal  outlying  known  dangers  are: 

Crowley  Rock,  lying  1)4  miles  off  the  north  side  of  Sannak  Island  and  348°  true  (A'A'Tl'. 
%  W.  mag.)  from  Sannak  Peak,  is  several  small  pinnacles  very  close  together.  The  least  depth 
found  was  about  12  feet,  though  there  may  be  less,  and  there  are  depths  of  9  to  15  fathoms 
close-to. 

The  western  end  of  Sannak  Island  is  fringed  with  rocks.  The  westernmost  known  break 
lies  1  mile  267°  true  {WSW.  %  W.  mag.)  from  the  northwestermnost  bare  rocks  of  the  group, 
and  nearly  2  miles  281°  true  (W.  %  S.  mag.)  from  the  west  point  at  the  entrance  to  Acherk 
Harbor. 

A  reef,  with  five  rocks  which  show  above  water,  lies  between  4  and  5  miles  southwestward 
of  Clifford  Island.  What  is  supposed  to  be  Hennig  Rock  is  the  northernmost  rock  of  the  reef, 
and  is  nearly  on  the  range  of  Sannak  Peak  and  the  western  end  of  Troitz  Island,  the  middle 
and  largest  Trinity  Island,  bearing  71°  true  {NE.  ^  E.  mag.),  distant  3}4  miles  from  the  island. 
Oneida  Rock,  4  miles  162°  true  (SE.  ^  S.  mag.)  from  Hennig  Rock,  is  the  southernmost 
rock  of  the  reef.  It  lies  5  miles  from  Clifford  Island,  and  224°  true  (SS  W.  }4  W.  mag.)  from 
Sannak  Peak. 

A  narrow  bank  about  5  miles  long  in  a  120°  true  (E.  by  S.  mag.)  direction  is  reported  to  lie 
7  miles  southwestward  of  Clifford  Island.  Depths  of  2  to  7  fathoms  were  found  on  it,  and  it  is 
marked  by  kelp  at  slack  water.  The  least  depth  was  found  at  its  northwest  end  which  lies  12 
miles  238°  true  (SW.  H  S.  mag.)  from  Sannak  Peak. 

Aleks  Rock  is  in  latitude  54°  20'  N.,  longitude  163°  10'  W.,  and  lies  163^  miles  241°  true 
(<S'  TV.  }4  'S'.)  mag.  from  Sannak  Peak.  It  is  the  farthest  outlying  known  rock  southwestward 
of  Sannak  Island.  The  least  depth  foimd  was  9  fathoms,  but  it  is  reported  to  break  wdth  an 
ordinary  swell. 

Anderson  and  Lenard  Rocks  are  reported  dangers,  lying  about  25  or  30  miles  south- 
ward of  Sannak  Islands.  The  existence  and  position  of  these  rocks  are  doubtful;  they  may 
be  one  and  the  same  rock,  though  reported  in  different  localities.  The  original  report  (1882) 
placed  Anderson  Rock  in  latitude  53°  56'  N.,  longitude  162°  45'  W.  (same  as  Sannak  Peak), 
and  in  1893  a  rock  just  bare  at  low  water  was  reported  in  (approximately)  latitude  54°  03'  N., 
longitude  162°  45'  W.  Vessels  of  the  United  States  Government  have  frequently  cruised  and 
sounded  over  the  charted  localities  of  Anderson  and  Lenard  rocks  without  finding  any  indication 
of  danger. 

Assistant  Ferdinand  Westdahl,  commanding  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  steamer 
McArihur,  searched  for  these  rocks  in  1901  but  did  not  find  them.  He  states:  "From  con- 
versations with  the  native  otter  hunter  on  board,  and  others  on  shore,  both  white  men  and 
natives,  1  am  convinced  that  a  rocky  shoal  lies  somewhere  near  the  reported  position  of  the 


SANNAK    ISLANDS.  7 

Lenard  Rock  (latitude  54°  N.,  longitude  163°  13'  W.,  approximately);  that  there  is  only  one 
such  shoal;  and  that  it  l>reaks  in  heavy  weather  only,  during  northeast  or  southwest  swell. 
It  will,  until  it  is  found,  remain  a  menace  to  the  free  navigation  of  the  vicinity.  Some  careful 
navigators,  known  to  me  as  reliable  men,  have  informed  me  that  they  have  seen  the  breakers 
at  a  distance  in  a  heavy  swell,  and  I  believe  them." 

ANCHORAOES. 

The  anchorages  at  Sannak  Islands  are  suitable  for  small  or  moderate-sized  vessels  only, 
and  with  the  exception  of  Caton  Harbor  there  are  no  harbors  affording  shelter  from  all  winds. 

Acherk  Harbor,  at  the  northwest  end  of  Sannak  Island,  is  %  mile  long  and  about  }4  niile 
wide,  and  affords  a  contracted  anchorage  for  small  vessels  with  protection  from  southerly  and 
westerly  winds,  but  is  exposed  to  winds  from  northwest  to  east,  and  a  swell  makes  in  with  strong 
westerly  winds.  There  is  a  small  settlement  at  the  southeast  corner  of  the  harbor,  at  which 
there  is  a  boat  landing,  and  water  can  be  obtained  by  boats.  The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  the 
tide  is  5.1  feet. 

Approaching  Acherk  Harbor  from  northward  and  eastward  there  are  several  reported 
dangers,  the  positions  of  which  are  shown  on  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  Chart  8860,  but  the 
only  known  danger  is  Crowley  Rock;  the  safest  way  to  avoid  this  rock  in  coming  from  east- 
ward is  to  keep  witliin  %  mile  of  the  north  shore  of  Sannak  Island  from  abreast  Northeast 
Point.  Approaching  from  northwestward  steer  for  the  western  hill  or  shoulder  (about  700 
feet)  of  Sannak  Mountain  on  any  bearing  between  140°  true  (SE.  by  E.  }4  E.  mag.)  and  176° 
true  (SSE.  mag.);  the  former  bearing  leads  about  %  mile  northward  of  the  northernmost  bare 
rocks  oif  the  western  end  of  Sannak  Island,  and  the  latter  bearing  leads  about  %  mile  west- 
ward of  Crowley  Rock.  When  off  the  entrance,  steer  193°  true  (S.  34  E.  mag.)  for  the  middle 
of  the  entrance.  Keep  in  mid-harbor  until  the  peaks  of  Sannak  Mountain  are  in  line  and  the 
row  of  houses  on  the  east  are  directly  under  them,  and  anchor  in  5  to  6  fathoms,  sandy  bottom. 
There  are  sunken  rocks  off  the  points  at  the  entrance,  but  they  are  marked  by  kelp  and  can  be 
readily  avoided. 

Murphys  Crack  is  a  small  indentation  about  l}4  miles  east  of  Acherk  Harbor.  It  is 
protected  by  a  reef  and  affords  shelter  for  the  boats  of  the  fishermen  who  live  here. 

Pavlof  Harbor  is  a  small  bay  about  1  mile  east  of  the  eastern  base  of  Sannak  Mountain. 
It  is  reported  to  be  a  good  harbor  for  small  craft,  but  requires  local  knowledge  because  of  the 
protecting  reefs  at  the  entrance,  and  vessels  drawing  more  than  7  or  8  feet  can  not  use  it. 
There  is  a  fishing  station  here,  and  the  only  store  on  the  island  where  supplies  can  be  obtained. 

Unimak  Cove,  134  niiles  east  of  Pavlof  Harbor,  is  an  open  bight,  and  unimportant. 

Johnsons  Bay,  134  miles  west  of  Northeast  Point,  has  an  inner  harbor  for  boats  and 
small  craft,  where  there  is  a  fishing  station,  and  vessels  may  anchor  just  inside  the  entrance 
to  the  bay,  favoring  the  east  side,  in  about  9  fathoms,  with  protection  from  southerly  and 
westerly  winds.     There  are  some  rocks  close  to  the  west  point  at  the  entrance. 

Northeast  Harbor,  at  the  northeast  end  of  Sannak  Island,  affords  anchorage  with  shelter 
from  northwest  and  southwest  winds,  but  is  exposed  to  easterly  winds.  Northeast  Point, 
forming  the  north  side  of  the  harbor,  is  about  100  feet  high.  Eagle  Rock,  about  50  feet  high, 
lies  near  the  middle  of  the  harbor;  it  is  surrounded  close-to  by  a  ledge  which  covers,  and  a 
sunken  reef  connects  it  \vith  the  head  of  the  harbor.  Water  can  be  obtained  by  boats  at  the 
liead  of  the  harbor. 

To  enter  give  Northeast  Point  a  berth  of  about  ^  mile,  and  anchor  between  the  point  and 
Eagle  Rock,  slightly  favoring  the  rock,  with  Chemabura  Island  just  open  of  Northeast  Point, 
in  6  to  9  fathoms,  sandy  bottom. 

Lida  Anchorage  is  a  temporary  anchorage  in  southerly  winds,  at  the  west  end  of  Caton 
Island,  south  of  Lida  Island,  and  which  may  be  entered  on  either  side  of  the  latter. 

Approaching  from  eastward  stand  in  near  the  visible  rocks  off  the  east  end  of  Lida  Island, 
taking  care  to  avoid  the  partially  covered  reef,  nearly  34  rnile  eastward  of  Lida  Island,  which 
extends  in  a  northerly  direction  from  Caton  Island.     Anchor  about  3€  mile  from  Caton  Island, 


5  SANNAK    ISLANDS. 

and  34  to  J^  xiiile  southward  of  Lida  Island,  in  6  to  7  fathoms,  sandy  bottom;  care  should^ he 
taken  not  to  approach  the  south  side  of  the  anchorage. 

Approaching  from  westward  steer  for  the  southwestern  side  of  Caton  Island  on  a  144° 
true  (SE.  %  E.  mag.)  course,  passing  about  %  mile  southward  of  Lida  Island,  and  leaving  a 
rock  awash,  lying  }4  mile  northward  from  Wanda  Island,  about  %  mile  on  the  starboard  hand, 
and  anchor  as  directed  above.  The  western  end  of  Lida  Island  should  not  be  approached  closer 
than  }/2  mile. 

Caton  Harbor  is  a  large  area  with  general  depths  of  2  to  3  fathoms,  sandy  bottom,  on 
the  southwest  side  of  Caton  Island,  protected  on  the  south  by  Elma  Island  and  on  the  north- 
west by  the  islands  and  reefs,  above  water  in  many  places,  between  Caton  Island  and  Sannak 
Island.  It  is  protected  from  all  swells,  and  schooners  of  considerable  size  have  wintered  here. 
The  entrance  is  narrow  and  is  close  to  the  west  end  of  Caton  Island;  there  is  another  entrance, 
crooked  and  very  narrow,  between  Elma  Island  and  the  southeast  end  of  Sannak  Island,  but 
its  approach  from  southward  is  full  of  rocks  and  reefs,  and  it  should  not  be  used  except  \vith 
local  knowledge. 

To  enter  Caton  Harbor  from  northward  proceed  as  directed  for  entering  Lida  Anchorage 
from  westward,  and  when  well  past  the  rock  awash,  mentioned  under  Lida  Anchorage,  bring 
the  south  side  of  the  rock  awash  in  range  with  Northeast  Point  astern,  and  stand  in,  keeping 
the  range  astern,  course  125°  true  (ESB.  14  E.  mag.),  until  close  to  Caton  Island.  Then  keep 
the  bare  rocks  and  kelp  projecting  from  Caton  Island  close  aboard  on  the  port  hand,  but  do 
not  approach  the  kelp  on  the  starboard  hand;  the  least  depth  found  in  the  narrowest  part  of 
the  passage  was  43^  fathoms,  shoaling  inside  to  33^  and  3  fathoms.  When  past  the  rocks  on 
the  port  hand  steer  about  193°  true  (S.  3^  E.  mag.)  about  J4  mile,  and  anchor  in  about  3 
fathoms  with  Princess  Rock  (high,  grassy  on  top,  extensive  surrounding  reefs  covered  at 
high  water)  in  line  with  Sannak  Mountain,  bearing  294°  true  (W.  }/^  N.  mag.)  This  anchorage 
is  about  }4  mile  from  Caton  Island,  and  the  same  distance  from  the  nearest  reef  on  the  western 
side.  Anchorage,  with  probably  better  shelter  from  northeast  gales,  can  be  made  off  the  sand 
beach  on  Caton  Island,  just  inside  the  narrow  entrance. 

Peterson  Bay,  on  the  south  side  of  Sannak  Island,  is  well  protected  from  all  but  south- 
east winds,  especially  for  small  vessels,  of  12  feet  or  less  draft,  which  can  anchor  well  inside  the 
bay  abreast  the  village  which  is  on  the  north  side.  The  people  living  here  say  that  in  heavy 
northeast  winter  gales  a  heavy  swell  makes  into  the  bay.  The  bay  is  over  1 3^  miles  long  300° 
true  (W.  by  N.  mag.),  nearly  3^  mile  wide  at  the  entrance  and  ^  mile  wide  at  the  head,  with 
about  5  fathoms  at  the  entrance  and  shoaling  gradually  toward  the  head,  where  there  is  12  to  14 
feet  in  the  widest  part  of  the  bay.  There  is  a  spot  with  1 1  feet  over  it  350  yards  off  the  south 
side  and  344°  true  (NW.  by  N.  mag.)  from  the  south  point  at  the  entrance.  The  mean  rise 
and  fall  of  the  tide  is  4.4  feet. 

To  enter,  in  approaching  from  eastward  give  the  east  and  southeast  sides  of  Caton  Island  a 
berth  of  about  2  miles  to  clear  the  reefs  and  breakers  wliich  extend  more  than  1  mile  off  shore, 
and  steer  262°  true  (SW.  by  W.  ^  W.  mdg.)  passing  1  mile  southward  of  Umla  Island  and 
Telemitz  Island.  When  the  latter  island  is  abeam  bring  the  tangent  of  the  north  side  of 
Peterson  Bay  in  line  with  the  slight  saddle  between  Sannak  Peak  and  the  eastern  shoulder  of 
Sannak  Mountain,  and  run  in  on  tliis  range,  course  318°  true  (NW.  by  W.  %  W.  mag.).  When 
the  south  point  of  the  bay  is  about  ^  mile  distant,  haul  northward  a  little  so  as  to  bring  the 
north  side  of  >  the  bay  in  line  with  the  extreme  southwest  tangent  of  Sannak  Mountain,  and  run 
in  on  this  range,  course  311°  true  (WNW.  mag.),  until  the  south  point  at  the  entrance  bears 
187°  true  (S.  by  E.  mag.).  Then  steer  294°  true  (W.  }4  N.  mag.)  for  the  middle  of  the  bay 
and  select  anchorage  according  to  draft. 

IKATAN  BAY  AND   ISANOTSKI   STRAIT 

separate  Unimak  Island  from  the  Alaska  Peninsula,  and  have  been  used  by  light-draft  craft, 
intended  for  service  on  the  Yukon  River,  in  making  the  passage  from  Puget  Sound  ports  to  St. 
Michael.  But  the  strait  is  subject  to  very  strong  tidal  currents,  and  the  northern  entrance  is 
shoal  and  requires  local  knowledge.     Northerly  winds  draw  through  the  strait  with  great  force. 


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IKATAN    BAY    AND   ISANOTSKI    STRAIT.  9 

Ikatan  Bay,  ou  the  north  side  of  Ikatan  Peniusula,  is  about  Sj^  miles  wide  aud  5  miles  long 
ill  a  soiithwest  direction,  and  is  free  from  surf  except  with  winds  from  north  to  east.  Sankin 
Island  lying  1  mile  from  the  north  side  of  the  bay,  is  high,  with  a  rounded,  grassy  summit;  a  reef 
extends  from  the  island  toward  the  nearest  point  of  the  peninsula.  It  is  reported  that  there  is 
no  safe  passage  for  vessels  northward  of  the  island,  and  that  Sankin  Bay,  northwestward  of 
Sankin  Island,  is  shoal.  The  southwest  end  of  Ikatan  Bay  is  separated  from  Otter  Cove  by  an 
isthmus,  20  to  30  feet  liigh;  a  river  enters  Ikatan  Bay  at  the  middle  of  this  low  land,  and  a  sub- 
merged spit,  which  drops  off  abruptly  to  over  20  fathoms,  makes  off  from  its  mouth. 

In  approaching  Ikatan  Bay  from  southwestward  the  only  known  danger  is  Pankof 
Breaker,  lying  a  little  over  2  miles  53°  true  {NE.  by  N.  mag.)  from  the  southeast  point  at  the 
entrance  to  East  Anchor  Cove.  To  avoid  the  rock,  round  Cape  Pankof  at  a  distance  of  1  mile 
and  steer  325°  true  (NW.  %  W.  mag.)  following  the  northeastern  coast  of  Ikatan  Peninsula 
at  a  distance  of  1  mile. 

There  is  a  good  anchorage  in  the  bight  on  the  west  side  of  Ikatan  Point,  the  south  point 
at  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  in  about  9  fathoms,  sand  and  mud  bottom,  with  protection  from 
winds  from  southeast  to  southwest;  water  can  be  conveniently  obtained  here.  The  best  anchor- 
age in  Ikatan  Bay  from  all  southerly  winds  is  on  its  south  side  off  the  low  divide  leading  to 
Dora  Harbor,  and  174°  true  {SSE.  ]4,  E.  mag.)  from  Sankin  Island.  In  approaching  this 
anchorage  bring  Bird  Island  in  sight  over  the  middle  of  the  low  land,  and  anchor  in  any  depth 
desired,  as  it  shoals  gradually  to  the  beach.  Anchorage  can  also  be  made  on  the  north  side 
of  the  baj",  2%  miles  westward  of  Sankin  Island,  in  10  fathoms,  sandy  bottom,  sheltered  from 
ordinary  northerly  winds,  but  badly  exposed  to  easterly  and  southerly  winds. 

Isanotski  Strait  has  its  southerly  entrance  at  the  northwest  end  of  Ikatan  Bay.  This 
entrance  is  narrow,  and  a  reef  projects  from  the  east  point  at  the  entrance,  and  another  from 
the  next  point  on  the  west  side  inside  the  entrance,  and  the  swirls  around  them  show  plainly. 
In  tKe  southern  and  narrow  part  of  the  strait  a  mid-channel  course  should  be  followed. 

There  is  an  extensive  shoal,  or  flat,  in  the  northern  and  widest  portion  of  the  strait,  lying 
eastward  of  the  channel,  and  southward  of  the  outlet  into  Bering  Sea.  The  channel  westward 
of  the  shoal  is  said  to  have  a  depth  of  about  2  fathoms.  The  northern  entrance  is  obstructed  by 
shoals,  probably  of  a  shifting  nature,  and  can  be  used  only  by  light-draft  vessels  with  local 
knowledge. 

Traders  Cove,  on  the  eastern  side  of  Isanotski  Strait  about  7  miles  above  its  entrance 
from  Ikatan  Bay,  is  a  good  anchorage.  Morzhovoi,  a  mission  and  native  village,  is  on  the 
south  side.  Fresh  water  can  be  obtained  at  the  southeast  comer  of  the  cove  near  the  village. 
The  anchorage  is  in  the  middle  of  the  cove  off  the  village,  with  the  Greek  church  bearing  about 
111°  true  {E.  }4  S.  mag.),  in  4)^  fathoms,  muddy  bottom.  Strong  winds  and  williwaws  blow 
across  the  cove,  biit  the  anchorage  is  good. 

Tides. — The  mean  rise  and  fall  in  Ikatan  Bay  is  4.5  feet. 

In  the  narrow  southern  part  of  Isanotski  Strait  the  tidal  currents  have  a  velocity  of  7  to 
9  miles  or  more,  and  it  is  said  that  there  is  practically  no  slack  and  that  the  current  turns  about 
three  hours  after  high  or  low  water  in  Ikatan  Bay. 

IKATAN  PENINSULA, 

the  southeastern  extremity  of  Unimak  Island,  is  about  13  miles  long,  and  is  divided  into  three 
mountain  masses  and  from  Unimak  Island  by  low  depressions  wliich  extend  from  West  Anchor 
Cove  to  East  Anchor  Cove,  and  from  Dora  Harbor  and  Otter  Cove  to  Ikatan  Bay. 

Cape  Pankof  (see  view),  the  eastern  end  of  Ikatan  Peninsula,  terminates  in  three  cliffs  on 
the  southern  side,  the  highest  about  1,200  feet,  but  on  the  northern  side  there  is  a  gentle  slope 
to  the  low  isthmus  between  East  and  West  Anchor  coves.  Some  bare  rocks  lie  witliin  ]4  mile 
from  the  cape. 

Pankof  Breaker  lies  a  little  over  2  miles  53°  true  {NE.  by  N.  mag.)  from  the  southeast 
point  at  the  entrance  to  East  Anchor  Cove.  It  is  a  pinnacle  rock,  judging  from  the  appearance 
of  the  break,  with  probably  less  than  10  feet  over  it  and  13  to  25  fathoms  close  to. 


10  IKATAN    PKNINSITLA. 

A  rock,  said  to  have  about  4  fathoms  over  it  and  to  break  in  a  southwest  swell,  is  reported 
to  lie  about  2  miles  120°  true  (E.  by  S.  mag.)  from  Cape  Pankof. 

Bird  Island,  about  }4  mile  in  extent,  750  feet  high,  and  precipitous,  lies  2  miles  from  the 
south  coast  of  Ikatan  Peninsula,  off  the  entrance  to  Dora  Harbor,  and  8  miles  westward  from 
Cape  Pankof.  A  sunken  reef  connects  the  island  with  the  western  point  at  the  entrance  to 
Dora  Harbor,  and  there  is  no  safe  passage  for  vessels  between.  The  western  end  of  the  island 
should  not  be  approached  closer  than  3^  mile. 

East  Anchor  Cove,  on  the  north  side  of  Cape  Pankof,  is  a  good  anchorage  except  with 
winds  from  north  to  southeast.  The  cove  is  large  and  easily  entered,  and  the  only  known 
danger  in  the  approach  is  Pankof  Breaker.  To  enter  give  the  southeast  pomt  at  the  entrance  a 
berth  of  over  3^  mile,  and  select  anchorage  as  desired  in  7  to  10  fathoms.  The  cove  is  free 
from  dangers  if  the  shore  be  given  a  berth  of  about  34  mile. 

West  Anchor  Cove,  on  the  southern  side  of  Ikatan  Peninsula,  about  midway  between 
Cape  Pankof  and  Bird  Island,  affords  anchorage  with  shelter  from  northerly  winds  and  probably 
from  easterly  winds,  but  there  is  always  more  or  less  surf  in  the  cove,  and  it  should  be  regarded 
as  a  temporary  anchorage  only  until  it  is  better  known.  No  sounding  has  been  done  in  the 
cove.  The  McArthur  anchored  for  one  night  in  the  bight  on  the  northern  side,  1  mile  inside  the 
western  point  at  the  entrance,  in  13  fathoms,  sandy  bottom.  The  survey  shows  a  number  of 
rocks  off  the  southeast  point  at  the  entrance,  and  one  large  rock  about  34  mile  from  shore. 
A  reef,  said  to  be  partly  bare  at  extreme  low  water  and  with  a  rock  about  15  feet  high  near  its 
end,  is  reported  to  extend  1 3^  miles  southwestward  from  the  southeast  point  at  the  entrance. 
The  same  report  states  that  a  reef  makes  out,  about  34  T^vi\e.  from  the  middle  of  the  north  shore 
of  the  cove.  It  is  reported  that  the  eastern  end  of  the  cove  has  ledges,  bare  at  low  water,  and 
rocky  bottom. 

Dora  Harbor,  on  the  south  side  of  Ikatan  Peninsula,  2  miles  north  of  Bird  Island,  affords 
good  anchorage  with  protection  from  all  winds  and  swell,  especially  for  vessels  of  about  9  feet 
or  less  draft,  which  can  anclior  near  the  head.  The  entire  shore  of  the  harbor  is  fringed  by 
ledges,  partly  bare  at  low  water,  to  a  distance  of  about  300  yards.  ^  The  reef  extending  J^ 
mile  westward  from  the  eastern  point  of  the  entrance,  and  that  projecting  from  the  western 
point  toward  Bird  Island  afford  protection  from  ordinary  southerly  and  westerly  swell  at  the 
outer  anchorage,  but  a  heavy  swell  from  southward  is  uncomfortable.  The  inner  harbor  is  a 
slight  expansion  at  the  head  with  depths  of  10  to  12  feet  in  the  middle;  there  is  a  fishing  station 
and  stream  on  its  west  side. 

To  enter  Dora  Harbor,  steer  for  the  west  point  at  the  entrance  on  a  334°  true  (NW.  mag.) 
course,  passing  %  mile  northeastward  of  Bird  Island.  When  the  north  end  of  Bird  Island  bears 
on  the  port  beam  steer  350°  true  (NNW.  }/2.  W.  mag.).  Keep  in  mid-harbor  and  anchor  with 
the  east  point  at  the  entrance  bearing  154°  true  (SE.  mag.)  and  the  west  point  249°  true  (S  W. 
Yi  W.  mag.)  in  about  5  fathoms.  This  anchorage  is  about  midway  between  the  east  point 
at  the  entrance  and  a  projecting  point  on  the  west  side  halfway  up  the  harbor,  and  the  clear 
width  of  the  anchorage  is  3€  mile.  Vessels  of  9  feet  or  less  draft  may  follow  a  mid-harbor  course 
and  anchor  in  the  middle  of  the  inner  harbor,  off  the  fishing  station,  in  12  feet  of  water. 

Otter  Cove  is  an  open  bight  at  the  northwest  end  of  Ikatan  Peninsula.  It  is  exposed 
to  southerly  winds  and  to  the  Pacific  swell,  and  there  is  always  a  heavy  surf.  Northerly  winds 
blow  with  great  violence  over  the  low  isthmus  separating  it  from  Ikatan  Bay.  The  only  safe 
boat  landing  is  in  its  eastern  comer.  A  rock  awash  at  low  water  lies  over  3^  mile  from  the 
shore  of  Ikatan- Peninsula  and  33^  miles  northwestward  from  Bird  Island. 

SOUTH  COAST  OF  UNIMAK  ISLAND  FROM  OTTER  COVE  TO  CAPE  SARICHEF. 

This  coast,  having  a  length  of  about  70  miles,  has  cliffs  in  places,  with  lower  land  and 
sand  beaches  between,  and  is  backed  by  the  high  mountain  masses  of  the  central  part  of  the 
island.  The  coast  is  fairly  regular,  with  no  indentations  of  any  extent,  and  there  are  no  harbors 
nor  sheltered  anchorages.  The  coast  is  exposed  to  the  ocean  swell,  and  there  is  generally  a 
heavy  surf,  which  makes  landing  dangerous.     From  the  few  soundings  made,  the  10-fathom 


PROMONTORY  HILL,  UNIMAK  ISLAND-FROM  EASTWARD. 


PINNACLE  ROCK,  SCOTCH  CAP,  NW.  ^  W. 


I'NIMAK    ISLAND.  11 

curve  is  less  than  %  mile  from  the  beach  in  most  places,  and  there  are  no  known  outlying 
danpjers. 

Cape  Lazaref  is  the  southwesternmost  of  three  high  cliffs,  with  sand  beaches  between, 
which  are  found  in  a  distance  of  about  8  miles  south  westward  of  Otter  Cove,  and  is  1,000  feet 
high.  From  the  sharp  point  of  the  cape  a  reef  extends  l^g  miles  southeastward,  consisting 
of  two  rocks  about  150  feet  high  and  another  about  70  feet  high  midway  between  them,  and  a 
multitude  of  low  rocks  close  together.  The  outer  pinnacle  lies  18}4  miles  258°  true  (SW.  by 
IF.  }4  W.  mag.)  from  Cape  Pankof.  Anchorage,  with  fairly  good  protection  from  westerly 
winds,  can  be  made  northeastward  of  this  reef,  about  }4  mile  southward  of  a  bunch  of  rocks 
lying  '^  mile  olf  the  eastern  side  of  the  cape,  in  10  fathoms,  sandy  bottom.  A  rocky  islet 
about  130  feet  liigh  lies  114  miles  westward  of  the  cape  and  ^g  mile  from  the  beach. 

From  Cape  Lazaref  the  coast  trends  westward,  curving  gradually  southward  for  about 
30  miles,  forming  a  broad,  open  bight  called  Unimak  Bay,  having  a  sandy  beach.  This  sand 
beach  is  broken  by  a  lava  bed  8}4  miles  westward  of  Cape  Lazaref,  and  by  three  conical  hills, 
the  southernmost  reacliing  the  water  and  formed  into  several  columns,  making  a  small  pro- 
jection (Rukavitsie  Cape),  15  miles  westward  of  Cape  Lazaref.  At  the  southern  end  of 
the  sand  beach  there  is  a  broad  valley,  the  south  point  of  which  is  a  sharp  projection,  with 
steep  sides  and  about  350  feet  high,  which  forms  a  small  cove  (Promontory  Cove)  open  north- 
ward, which  is  reported  to  afford  anchorage  with  protection  from  southerly  winds  but  not 
from  the  swell.     The  bottom  is  sandy  and  the  shoaling  toward  the  beach  gradual. 

Cape  Lutke,  2^  miles  southward  of  Promontory  Cove,  is  a  cliff  538  feet  high,  joined 
by  a  lower  ridge  to  the  higher  land  farther  back,  and  is  the  southwestern  head  of  Unimak 
Bay.  At  this  point  the  coast  changes  direction  to  southwestward  and  then  westward  for 
13  miles  to  Seal  Cape. 

Arch  Point,  3  miles  northeastward  of  Seal  Cape,  is  a  rocky  projection  40  feet  high  with 
an  arch  tlirough  the  extremity  of  the  point. 

Promontory  Hill  (see  view),  5  miles  northeastward  from  Seal  Cape,  is  a  short  ridge, 
a})out  1,130  feet  high,  having  a  northwest  and  southeast  direction,  and  detached  from  the 
interior  high  land.  Its  outlines  are  smoothly  rounded  and  there  is  a  slight  saddle  in  the 
ridge,  the  whole  having  a  bare,  brown  appearance.  It  is  isolated  and  prominent,  and  together 
with  Scotch  Cap  is  a  good  landmark  for  the  eastern  entrance  to  Unimak  Pass. 

Seal  Cape  is  not  particularly  noticeable,  but  the  locality  is  well  marked  by  Promontory 
llill,  Arch  Point,  and  Scotch  Cap. 

From  Seal  Cape  around  to  Cape  Sarichef,  a  distance  of  19  miles,  the  coast  of  Unimak 
Island  has  a  number  of  projecting  points,  is  low  in  appearance,  and  slopes  gradually  upward 
to  the  high  laud  of  the  island.  There  are  low  blufi's  in  places,  but  none  so  high  as  Scotch  Cap 
or  which  can  be  mistaken  for  it.  There  are  no  dangers  if  the  coast  be  given  a  berth  of  3^ 
mile. 

Scotch  Cap  lighthouse  is  about  1%  miles  eastward  of  Scotch  Cap  in  approximately 
latitude  54°  24'  N.,  longitude  164°  45'  W.  The  structure  is  a  white,  octagonal  building  and 
tower,  and  there  are  a  number  of  buildings  near  it.  The  light  is  fixed  white,  third  order, 
elevated  90  feet  above  high  water,  and  should  be  visible  15  miles  in  clear  weather  when  bear- 
ing from  277°  true  {W.  by  S.  mag.)  through  north  to  108°  true  (E.  mag.).  The  fog  signal  is 
a  10-inch  compressed-air  whistle  giving  blasts  of  5  seconds'  duration  separated  by  silent 
intervals  of  55  seconds. 

Scotch  Cap  (see  view)  is  a  precipitous  cliff  of  rock  which  extends  along  the  beach  nearly 
1  mile.  It  is  420  feet  high  at  its  highest  point  and  becomes  lower  at  either  end.  Back  of 
the  face  of  the  cliff  the  land  slopes  downward  for  nearly  1  mile,  and  then  rises  by  a  uniform 
slope  to  the  higher  land  of  the  island.  In  front  of  the  cliff,  50  yards  from  its  foot,  is  a  large 
pinnacle  rock  172  feet  high.  Scotch  Cap  can  be  seen  many  miles  in  clear  weather  and  is 
unmistakable. 

Cape  Sarichef,  the  western  end  of  Unimak  Island,  is  the  eastern  point  at  the  north- 
western entrance  to  Unimak  Pass.     The  cape  is  about  100  feet  high,  with  steep  grassy  sides, 


12  UNIMAK   ISLAND. 

aud  the  land  back  of  the  cape  slopes  gradually  upward  to  Pogrouuii  Volcauo.  There  is  a 
black  lava  bed  along  the  beach  south  of  the  cape,  and  2  miles  south  of  the  cape  there  is  a 
fiat  rock  barely  detached  from  the  coast. 

Cape  Sarichef  lighthouse,  on  the  summit  of  the  cape,  is  in  approximately  latitude 
54°  36'  N.,  longitude  164°  56'  W.  The  structure  is  a  white,  octagonal  building  and  tower, 
and  there  are  a  number  of  buildings  near  it.  The  light  is  fixed  white,  third  order,  elevated 
1263^  feet  above  the  water,  and  should  be  visible  173^  miles  in  clear  weather  when  bearing 
from  16°  true  (N.  Vs  W.  mag.)  through  east  to  218°  true  (S.  by  W.  %  W.  mag.).  The  fog 
signal  is  a  first-class,  compressed-air  siren  giving  blasts  of  3  seconds'  duration  separated  by 
alternate  silent  intervals  of  5  and  49  seconds. 

DIRECTIONS   PROM   UMGA  ISLAND   THROUGH  UNIMAK  PASS   TO   CAPE 

KALEKTA. 

The  waters  on  the  southern  side  of  the  Alaska  Peninsula  eastward  of  Umga  Island  have 
not  been  surveyed,  but  the  general  track  of  vessels  through  the  inside  passage  is  described 
in  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  Bulletin  Xo.  38.  The  directions  following  are  based  on  surveys 
by  parties  of  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  in  1901. 

I.  Umga  Island  to  Seal  Cape. — Pass  about  ^  mile  westward  of  Umga  Island  and  steer 
225°  true  (SSW.  %  W.  mag.)  for  143^  miles,  which  should  lead  to  a  position  IJ^  miles  south- 
eastward of  Cape  Pankof.  On  this  course  Pankof  Breaker  should  be  left  23i  miles  on  the 
starboard  hand. 

From  a  position  1}4  miles  southeastward  of  Cape  Pankof  make  good  a  253°  true  (SW. 
J^  W.  mag.)  course.  The  southernmost  pinnacle  rock  at  Cape  Lazaref  should  be  left  about 
33^  miles  on  the  starboard  hand,  and  the  coast  of  the  southern  end  of  Unimak  Island  should 
be  given  a  berth  of  about  2  miles.  This  course  made  good  for  58  miles  should  lead  to  a  posi- 
tion with  Seal  Cape  on  the  starboard  beam  distant  23^  miles;  Scotch  Cap  lighthouse  should 
then  bear  about  302°  true  {WNW.  %  W.  mag.)  distant  about  5  miles.  Then  follow  the 
directions  in  section  II. 

II.  Through  Unimak  Pass  to  Akun  Head. — When  crossing  Unimak  Pass  the  tidal  current 
with  a  maximum  velocity  at  strength  of  about  4  miles  will  be  on  the  bow  or  quarter,  and 
allowance  must  be  made  for  it  to  make  the  course  good  (see  page  13). 

From  a  position  2  ^4,  miles  southeastward  of  Seal  Cape  with  Scotch  Cap  lighthouse  bearing 
302°  true  {WNW.  %  W.  mag.)  distant  about  5  miles,  make  good  a  268°  true  (WSW.  3i  W. 
mag.)  course  for  36  miles,  which  should  lead  to  a  position  2  miles  349°  true  {NNW.  y^  W. 
mag.)  from  Akun  Head.  Then  follow  the  directions  in  sectioii  III.  The  course  should  lead 
2  miles  northward  of  the  eastern  headland  at  the  north  end  of  Akun  Island  when  5  miles 
from  Akun  Head. 

III.  From  AJcun  Head  to  Cape  Kalekta. — From  a  position  2  miles  349°  true  {NNW. 
Yi  W.  mag.)  from  Akun  Head  make  good  a  249°  true  (SW.  ^  W.  mag.)  course  for  14  miles 
to  a  position  with  the  western  head  at  the  north  end  of  Akutan  Island  bearing  141°  true 
{SE.  by  E.  mag.)  distant  2  miles. 

From  this  position  make  good  a  224°  true  (SSW.  %  W.  mag.)  course  for  183^  miles, 
which  should  lead  to  a  position  about  1  mile  northwestward  of  Cape  Kalekta.  Then  follow 
the  directions  for  Unalaska  Bay,  page  24.  In  crossing  from  Akutan  Island  to  Cape  Kalekta 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  be  set  off  the  course  by  the  tidal  currents  setting  to  or  from 
Akutan  and  Unalga  passes  (see  page  14). 

FOX  ISLANDS  AND  PASSES. 

The  three  large  islands,  Unimak,  Unalaska,  Umnak,  and  their  associated  islands,  lying 
westward  of  Alaska  Peninsula,  are  known  as  the  Fox  Islands.  The  islands  of  this  group  are 
high,  bare  of  trees,  and  generally  grass-covered,  and  terminate  generally  at  the  water  in 
precipitous  cliffs.     Most  of  them  have  numerous  pinnacle  rocks  close  to  the  shore.     They 


FOX   ISU\.NDS  AND   PASSES.  13 

are  frequented  by  birds  in  enormous  numbers,  and  immense  flocks  of  them  are  frequently 
met  with  when  in  their  vicinity.  The  highest  peaks  which,  in  clear  weather,  are  prominent 
landmarks  for  mariners  are: 

Shishaldin  Volcano,  on  Unhnak  Island,  9,387  feet  high,  in  latitude  54°  45'  23"  N.  and 
longitude  163°  58'  W.,  is  cone-shaped  and  very  regular  in  outline,  with  faint  wreaths  of  smoke 
and  vapor  at  times  drifting  from  its  summit.  It  is  for  the  most  part  snow-clad,  except  where 
the  rocky  cliffs  and  projections  afford  no  lodgment. 

Isanotski,  on  Unimak  Island,  in  latitude  54°  46'  N.  and  longitude  163°  43'  30"  W.,  is 
seen  close  eastward  of  Shishaldin,  very  rugged,  and  having  a  broken  or  castellated  double 
peak,  the  highest  8,088  feet  high.  The  summit  is  bare  and  looks  as  though  composed  of  great 
vertical  rock  masses. 

Pogromni  Volcano,  about  8  miles  from  the  western  end  of  Unimak  Island,  in  latitude 
54°  34'  16"  N.  and  longitude  164°  41'  30"  W.,  is  6,500  feet  high,  a  snow-clad,  conical  peak, 
vertical  ridges  cropping  through  the  snow.  Pogromni  is  a  guiding  landmark  in  clear  weather 
in  making  Unimak  Pass,  both  from  southward  and  from  Bering  Sea. 

Makushin  Volcano,  on  the  northwestern  side  of  Unalaska  Island,  in  latitude  53°  52' 
20"  N.  and  longitude  166°  50'  40"  W.  (approximately),  is  5,691  feet  high,  and  in  clear  weather 
is  a  prominent  landmark  for  vessels  bound  to  Dutch  Harbor  from  Bering  Sea. 

These  mountains  are  excellent  landmarks  if  they  can  be  seen,  but  in  summer  they  are 
often  obscured  by  fogs  or  low-lying  clouds.  The  lower  hills  and  islands  and  objects  near  the 
sea  level  generally  furnish  the  available  landmarks. 

From  southward  arid  eastward,  bound  for  Bering  Sea,  there  are  three  passes  used  by  deep- 
draft  vessels,  known  collectively  as  the  Fox  Islands  Passes,  and  respectively  as  Unimak, 
Akutan,  and  Unalga  passes.  The  largest  and  most  desirable  one  to  use  in  thick  and  foggy 
weather  is  the  eastern  one,  Unimak  Pass.  This  is  clear  of  liidden  dangers,  the  widest  of  the 
three,  and  is  comparatively  free  from  tide  rips.  It  is  especially  recommended  for  sailing  vessels, 
and  for  steamers  bound  northward  direct.  Akutan  and  Unalga  passes  are  convenient,  with 
daylight  and  clear  weather,  for  steam  vessels  bound  to  Unalaska  Bay,  but,  being  narrow  and 
having  strong  currents  and  tide  rips  at  times,  are  not  recommended  for  sailing  vessels  bound 
north.  A  fair  wind  is  almost  necessary  for  the  passage,  and  from  southward  this  would  bring 
thick  weather.  The  minor  passes  between  the  islands  westward  of  Unimak  Pass  are  described 
under  their  several  headings  following. 

Soundings. — Southward  of  the  passes  the  100-fathom  curve  is  20  to  40  miles  offshore, 
and  when  inside  of  this  depth  the  color  of  the  water  will  have  changed  from  dark  blue  to  hght 
green.  This  change  in  the  color  of  the  water  is  the  best  indication  the  mariner  has  in  thick 
weather  to  warn  him  of  his  approach  to  land  and  that  he  is  on  soundings.  Southwest  of  Unimak 
Pass  the  50-fathom  curve  is  3  to'5  miles  offshore,  and  in  thick  weather  the  greatest  caution  should 
be  used  in  approaching  inside  of  this  depth.  Southeast  of  Unimak  Pass  the  water  shoals  rapidly 
from  100  fathoms  to  Davidson  Bank,  on  which  a  least  depth  of  36  fathoms  is  marked  27  miles 
from  Ugamak  Island. 

Tidal  Currents  and  Tide  Rips. — In  the  vicinity  of  the  passes  the  tidal  currents  have 
considerable  velocity,  and  their  direction  and  times  of  change  are  uncertain;  they  are  also 
greatly  influenced  by  winds.  In  navigating  near  the  entrances  to  the  passes  the  current  should 
be  kept  in  mind  and  precautions  be  taken  to  guard  against  being  carried  into  dangerous 
localities,  especially  in  thick  weather. 

In  Unimak  Pass  the  observed  maximum  velocity  of  the  current  is  about  4  miles  per 
hour,  and  its  velocity  is  greater  near  Scotch  Cap  and  Ugamak  Island  than  in  the  middle  of 
the  pass.  The  northerly  (flood)  current  begins  about  three  hours  before  the  time  of  high 
water  at  Kodiak  and  the  southerly  (ebb)  current  begins  about  three  hours  before  the  time 
of  low  water  at  Kodiak  as  taken  from  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  Tide  Tables.  The  tide 
rips,  during  the  largest  tides  and  when  a  strong  wind  opposes  the  current,  are  strong  but  not 
dangerousto  well-found  sailing  vessels  or  steamers. 


14  FOX   ISLANDS  AND  PASSES. 

In  Akutan  Pass  the  currents  have  an  estimated  maximum  velocity  of  6  to  7  miles  per 
hour.  The  northerly  (flood)  current  begins  about  three  hours  before  the  time -of  high  water 
at  Kodiak  and  the  southerly  (ebb)  current  begins  about  three  hours  before  the  time  of  low 
water  at  Kodiak  as  taken  from  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  Tide  Tables.  There  are  strong 
tide  rips  during  the  periods  of  largest  tides;  but  the  strongest  rips  are  not  generally  foimd  in 
the  middle  of  the  pass.  With  a  current  setting  northward  the  rips  will  be  strongest  in  the 
northern  entrance  from  Cape  Kalekta  and  Akutan  Island  to  Unalga  Island,  and  with  a  current 
setting  southward  the  strongest  rips  will  be  found  at  the  southern  entrance  to  the  pass.  When 
the  current  setting  north  is  opposed  by  a  strong  northerly  wind  the  tide  rips  in  the  northern 
entrance  to  the  pass  are  dangerous,  and  it  is  advisable  not  to  use  this  pass  in  a  gale.  Under 
ordinary  conditions,  when  there  are  no  strong  winds,  this  pass  can  be  used  by  full-powered 
steamers  at  any  stage  of  the  current,  but  sailing  vessels  should  not  use  it  unless  they  happen  to 
enter  at  or  near  slack  water.  It  is  stated  that  the  most  dangerous  rips  occur  at  the  north 
entrance  to  the  pass. 

In  Unalga  Pass  the  currents  have  an  estimated  maximum  velocity  of  about  9  miles  an 
hour,  and  the  times  for  the  beginning  of  flood  and  ebb  currents  are  the  same  as  for  Akutan 
Pass.  The  tide  rips  prevail  under  the  same  general  conditions  as  in  Akutan  Pass,  except  that 
they  are,  if  anything,  heavier  and  more  dangerous  in  a  gale. 

The  duration  of  both  flood  and  ebb  is  subject  to  considerable  variation  in  these  passes, 
80  that  too  much  reliance  should  not  be  placed  upon  the  times  given  above. 

Assistant  J.  J.  Gilbert,  commanding  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  steamer  Pathfinder, 
who  surveyed  the  Fox  Islands  Pas.ses  in  1901,  states  that '  'they  [tide  rips  in  Akutan  and  Unalga 
passes]  .occur  during  spring  tides,  when  tlie  currents  are  strong,  and  usually  when  there  is  a 
strong  wind  or  swell  from  the  other  direction;  this  condition  is  not  indispensable,  for,  on  one 
occasion,  there  was  neither  wind  nor  sea,  when  suddenly  we  were  in  the  midst  of  the  rips,  and 
had  wet  things  pretty  thoroughly  before  the  hawse  pipes  could  be  closed." 

When  the  tide  rips  are  heaviest  in  Akutan  and  Unalga  passes,  the  water  is  broken  into 
heavy  choppy  seas  from  all  directions,  wliich  board  the  vessel  and  make  it  difficult  to  keep 
control  even  of  large,  powerful  steamers. 

The  general  condition  of  fog  and  weather  described  on  page  27  apply  also  to  the  vicinity 
of  the  Fox  Islands  Passes. 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS   FOR  APPROACHING  UNIMAK  PASS  FROM 

SOUTHEASTWARD. 

Note. — In  the  directions  .following  no  allowance  has  been  made  for  the  tidal  currents, 
which  have  considerable  velocity  in  Unimak  Pass;  this  should  be  kept  in  mind  in  order  to 
make  the  courses  good. 

Unimak  Pass  is  the  widest  of  the  Fox  Islands  Passes,  being  about  10  miles  wide  at  its 
narrowest  part,  between  Ugamak  Island  and  Scotch  Cap.  It  is  free  from  outlying  dangers 
and  dangerous  tide  rips,  and  the  tidal  currents  have  less  velocity  than  in  the  other  passes. 
Except  near  the  shores,  it  is  free  from  williwaws.  It  is  the  most  desirable  pass  for  sailing 
vessels  and  for  vessels  not  calling  at  Dutch  Harbor.  The  directions  for  appro3.ching  this  pass 
are  also  good  for  vessels  desiring  to  pass  through  Akutan  and  Unalga  passes. 

When  approaching  the  passes  from  southward  and  eastward,  care  must  be  taken  to  avoid 
the  Sannak  Reefs  and  the  reported  localities  of  Anderson  and  Lenard  rocks.  A  good  rule  is  to 
make  longitude  164"  W.  while  still  south  of  latitude  54''  N.  and  then  stand  northwestward  to 
make  Seal  Cape.  If  the  weather  is  very  clear  the  mountains  of  Unimak  Island  may  be  seen 
and  recognized  and  the  course  .shaped  for  ITnimak  Pass;  but  under  ordinary  conditions  Prom- 
ontory Hill  back  of  Seal  Cape,  Tigalda  Island,  or  ITgamak  Island,  will  be  the  first  land  sighted. 

If  Tigalda  Island  is  .sighted  at  a  flistance  wlien  approaching  Unimak  Pa.ss,  it  will  appear 
as  a  number  of  .small,  detached  islands,  but  when  seen  closer  to  it  is  one  island  with  six  distiiu^t 
mountain  ridges. 


XJNIMAK  PASS.  15 

A  355°  true  (NNW.  mag.)  course  heading  for  Pogromui  Volcano  will  lead  nearly  for  Seal 
Cape,  passing  about  4  miles  eastward  of  Ugamak  Island. 

If  the  weather  is  thick,  soundings  on  Davidson  Bank  may  be  of  use  in  feeling  the  way 
in  to  the  land.  In  the  vicinity  of  Seal  Cape  the  coast  is  bold  and  may  be  approached  with 
caution  close  enough  (from  J^  to  %  mile)  to  be  seen  and  to  be  followed  until  some  point  is 
recognized  by  which  the  vessel's  position  may  be  known.  A  vessel  should  first  be  sure  of  her 
position  before  attempting  to  enter  Unimak  Pass  and  in  thick  weather  should  not  attempt  the 
other  passes. 

In  thick  weather,  if  the  land  is  made  in  the  vicinity  of  Seal  Cape  a  vessel  may  stand  westward, 
following  the  beacli  and  giving  it  a  berth  of  %  mile  or  more  until  Scotch  Cap  lighthouse  or 
Scotch  Cap  is  made  and  recognized.  With  Scotch  Cap  lighthouse  bearing  18°  true  (A^.  mag.), 
distant  1  to  2  miles,  steer  288°  true  (W.  mag.)  for  6  miles,  and  then  steer  333°  tnie  (NW.  mag.), 
which  shovild  give  the  coast  of  Unimak  Island  a  berth  of  about  2}^  miles,  and  the  course  made 
good  for  about  11  miles  should  lead  to  a  position  5  miles  254°  true  {SW.  by  W.  mag.)  from 
Cape  Sarichef.  Or,  if  bound  to  Unalaska  Bay,  when  Scotch  Cap  lighthouse  bears  18°  true 
(A^.  mag.),  distant  1  to  2  miles,  a  266°  true  (WSW.  mag.)  course  made  good  for  31  miles  should 
lead  about  2  miles  northward  of  Akun  Head. 

In  coming  from  southeastward,  when  Ugamak  Island  is  sighted  shape  the  course  to  pass 
about  2  miles  northeastward  of  it,  and  then: 

From  a  position  2  miles  63°  true  {NE.  mag.)  from  the  northeast  end  of  Ugamak  Island 
make  good  a  322°  true  (NW.  by  W.  mag.)  course  for  10  miles  to  a  position  with  Scotch  Cap 
lighthouse  bearing  74°  true  {NE.  by  E.  mag.),  distant  5)4  miles.  Then  steer  333°  true  (NW. 
mag.),  with  the  northeastern  end  of  Ugamak  Island  astern,  and  give  the  coast  of  Unimak 
Island  a  berth  of  about  2J^  miles;  this  course  made  good  for  133^  miles  should  lead  to  a 
position  with  Cape  Sarichef  lighthouse  bearing  74°  true  {NE.  by  E.  mag.),  distant  5  miles. 
Then  follow  the  directions  for  Bering  Sea  on  page  47. 

Or,  if  hound  to  Unalaska  Bay,  from  a  position  2  miles  18°  true  {N.  mag.)  of  the  northeast 
end  of  Ugamak  Island  make  good  a  280°  true  (W.  ^  S.  mag.)  course  for  26  miles,  which  should 
lead  to  a  position  2  miles  northward  of  the  eastern  head  at  the  north  end  of  Akun  Island.  Then 
steer  268°  true  (WSW.  }4  W.  mag.)  about  5  miles  to  a  position  2  miles  349°  true  {NNW.  M  W. 
mag.)  from  Akun  Head.     Then  follow  the  directions  in  section  III,  page  12. 

UGAMAK  ISLAND, 

on  the  southwest  side  at  the  southeast  entrance  to  Unimak  Pass,  lies  10  miles  southward  of 
Unimak  Island,  and  its  southeast  point  is  in  latitude  54°  13'  N..  longitude  164°  46'  W.  The 
island  is  rugged  with  cliffs  at  the  shore,  and  1,000  feet  high  at  the  eastern  end,  where  there  is  a 
sharp  peak.  Near  the  middle  of  the  island  there  is  a  knob  nearly  as  high  as  the  eastern  end. 
The  island  is  fringed  with  kelp  and  bare  rocks  close-to,  but  there  are  no  known  outlying  dangers. 
There  is  no  harbor  at  the  island.  Aiktak  Island  lies  }4  mile  southward  of  Ugamak  Island; 
its  south  side  is  a  cliff  about  600  feet  high. 

Ugamak  Strait,  between  Ugamak  and  Aiktak  islands  on  the  north  and  Kaligagan  Island 
on  the  south',  has  a  width  of  3  miles,  and  there  are  no  knowTi  liidden  dangers.  Passing  1  mile 
southward  of  Aiktak  Island,  a  290°  true  (W.  }4  N.  mag.)  course,  heading  for  the  north  end 
of  Akun  Island  is  considered  safe,  and  carries  through  the  passage  in  mid-channel. 

TIGALDA  ISLAND, 

the  south  side  of  which  is  in  latitude  54°  04'  N.,  is  separated  from  Ugamak  Island  by  Ugamak 
Strait.  The  island  is  11  miles  long  and  about  ^\<2  miles  wide,  and  consists  of  six  mountain 
ridges,  1,200  to  1,800  feet  high,  separated  by  low  valleys  having  a  northwesterly  direction. 
The  western  end  of  the  island  is  comparatively  low.  Kaligagan  Island,  lying  in  Ugamak 
Strait  %  mile  off  the  northeast  end  of  Tigalda  Island,  is  %  mile  long  and  about  300  feet  high. 
A  large  number  of  high,  bare  rocks  extend  2i/^  miles  westward  of  Kaligagan  Island,'and  the 


16  TIGALDA   ISLAND. 

outermost  lies  1%  miles  from  Tigalda  Island.  Two  rounded  rocks  lie  }4  mile  off  the  south 
side  of  Tigalda  Island,  and  an  islet  100  feet  high  hes  close  to  the  island  midway  between  these 
rocks  and  the  western  end  of  Tigalda  Island. 

Tigalda  Bay,  on  the  north  side  of  Tigalda  Island  3  miles  from  its  eastern  end,  is  a  sheltered 
anchorage  except  from  northwest  winds.  The  bay  is  about  ^  mile  wide,  and  1 J^  miles  long  in  a 
108°  true  (E.  mag.)  direction,  and  has  depths  of  8  to  10  fathoms,  rocky  bottom.  The  mean  rise 
and  fall  of  tides  is  0.9  foot. 

To  enter  Tigalda  Bay,  from  Ugamak  Strait,  pass  }/2  mile  or  more  northward  and  westward 
of  the  outermost  bare  rock,  lying  2J/^  miles  westward  of  Kaligagan  Island,  and  steer  204°  true 
(S.  3^  W.  mag.)  for  2}4  miles.  Tigalda  Bay  should  then  be  open  on  the  port  beam.  Enter 
the  bay  in  mid-channel  and  select  anchorage  near  the  middle,  taking  care  not  to  approach  the 
head  nearer  than  about   %  mile. 

Approaching  from  southwestward  ihrougJi  Avatanak  Strait,  follow  the  north  side  of 
Tigalda  Island,  giving  it  a  berth  of  about  1  mile  until  heading  about  112°  true  (E.  %  S.  mag.) 
for  the  entrance  to  the  bay;  on  this  course  Tanginak  Islet,  about  80  feet  high,  should  be  astern 
and  the  highest  peak  (1,400  feet)  close  to  the  east  end  of  Tigalda  Island  should  be  ahead.  Enter 
the  bay  and  anchor  as  directed  in  the  preceding  paragraph. 

Derbin  Strait,  separating  Tigalda  and  Avatanak  islands,  is  a  little  over  1  mile  wide, 
and  there  are  no  known  hidden  dangers.  A  mid-channel  course  through  the  strait,  326°  true 
(NW.  J^  W.  mag.),  with  the  northeast  headland  of  Akun  Island  ahead,  is  considered  safe. 

AVATANAK  ISLAND, 

lying  southwestward  of  Tigalda  Island,  is  separated  from  Akun  Island  by  Avatanak  Strait. 
The  island  is  about  9  miles  long  and  over  3  miles  wide  at  its  eastern  end,  but  the  western  half 
of  the  island  averages  less  than  ^  mile  wide.  The  middle  of  the  island  is  a  great  depression 
whose  sides  slope  gently  upward  to  the  mountains  at  its  eastern  and  western  ends,  which  are 
about  1,700  and  1,500  feet  high,  respectively.  Clusters  of  bare  rocks  extend  about  %  mile 
off  the  southeast  and  west  ends  of  the  island,  and  Basalt  Rock  about  30  feet  high  lies  in  Avata- 
nak Strait,  about  1  mile  off  the  north  side  of  the  island.     There  is  no  secure  anchorage. 

Rootok  Strait,  separating  Avatanak  Island  from  Rootok  Island,  is  a  httle  over  1  mile 
wide  in  its  narrowest  part,  but  the  clear  channel  is  reduced  by  rocks  on  both  sides  to  a  width 
of  about  14  niile;  there  are  no  known  hidden  dangers  when  passing  through  in  mid-channel. 
The  directions  following  are  considered  safe  and  lead  in  mid-channel. 

Approaching  from  southeastward,  steer  for  the  north  end  of  Rootok  Island  on  a  299°  true 
(W.  by  N.  mag.)  course,  leaving  the  east  end  of  the  island  %  mile  on  the  port  hand.  When 
the  west  end  of  Avatanak  Island  bears  abeam,  steer  about  332°  true  (NW.  mag.)  and  pass  in 
mid-channel  between  the  bare  rocks  off  the  west  end  of  Avatanak  Island  and  those  close  to  the 
north  end  of  Rootok  Island. 

ROOTOK  ISLAND 

is  the  western  island  on  the  southeast  side  of  Avatanak  Strait,  and  lies  3  miles  southeastward 
from  the  southern  end  of  Akun  Island.  The  island  is  3  miles  long  and  about  2  miles  wide. 
There  are  three  peaks  on  its  southern  side,  the  highest  1,760  feet,  and  the  island  terminates  at 
the  shore  in  cliffs.  There  is  no  secure  anchorage.  The  southern  ends  of  Tigalda,  Avatanak,  and 
Rootok  islands  are  nearly  in  line,  bearing  262°  true  (SW.  hyW.  %  W.  mag.). 

Avatanak  Strait  is  a  broad,  clear  channel  separating  Avatanak  and  Rootok  islands  from 
Akun  Island,  and  leads  from  Unimak  Pass  for  Akutan  Pass.  The  strait  has  a  general  245°  true 
{S  W.  yi  W.  mag.)  direction,  and  is  3  miles  wide  at  its  narrowest  part.  There  are  no  known 
hidden  dangers,  and  its  navigation  is  not  difficult  in  clear  weather.  • 

Current  observations  have  not  been  made  in  Avatanak  Strait.  The  flood  current  sets 
northeastward  and  the  ebb  southwestward  through  the  strait. 


OBNEBAIi  DESCBIPTION.  J.  7 

AKUN  ISLAND 

lies  23  miles  southwestward  of  Unimak  Island,  and  is  separated  from  Akutan  Island  by  Akutan 
Bay  and  Akun  Strait,  and  from  Rootok  and  Avatanak  islands  by  Avatanak  Strait.  It  is  about 
12  miles  long,  but  is  very  irregular  in  shape,  being  nearly  divided  by  Akun  Cove  and  Lost  Harbor 
and  a  low  depression  joining  them.  The  island  is  high  and  rugged,  particularly  its  northern 
part,  which  reaches  an  elevation  of  about  2,500  feet  in  an  extinct  crater  at  its  northwest  end 
on  the  north  side  of  Lost  Harbor.  The  northern  end  of  Akun  Island  is  two  massive  heads  about 
4  miles  apart,  separated  by  Little  Bay  with  a  moderately  low  divide  at  its  head,  the  whole 
fonning  a  large  valley.  Both  heads  have  precipitous  sea  faces  about  1,200  feet  high,  and  have 
grassy  saddles  southward  of  them.  Akun  Head,  the  western  headland,  has  a  long  lozenge- 
shaped  horizontal  strata  with  a  red  iron-rust  color  in  the  face  of  the  cliff.  Tanginak  Islet, 
about  80  feet  high  with  steep  sides,  lies  2}i  miles  off  the  east  end  of  Akun  Island,  and  there  is  a 
deep  passage  between  if  the  east  end  of  Akun  Island  be  given  a  berth  of  over  ^s  mile.  Tangik 
and  Poa  islands  (about  200  feet  high)  lie  in  Avatanak  Strait  about  ^  mile  off  the  southern 
side  of  Akun  Island.  Two  low  islets  surrounded  by  kelp  lie  on  the  eastern  side  at  the  northern 
end  of  Akim  Strait  close  to  the  southwest  end  of  Akun  Island.  There  are  a  number  of  anchor- 
ages around  the  island  with  offshore  winds.     The  best  are: 

Seredka  Bay,  on  the  south  side  of  Akun  Island  2  miles  westward  of  Round  Head,  the 
southeast  point  of  the  i.sland,  and  1^  miles  northward  of  Tangik  Island,  is  about  1  mile  wide 
and  the  same  long,  open  southeast,  and  has  two  bights  at  the  head.  The  bay  is  easy  of  access, 
and  a  safe  and  roomy  anchorage  except  with  southeast  winds.  There  is  considerable  kelp 
on  the  southwest  side  of  the  bay.  The  Pathfinder  anchored  in  the  bight  at  the  north  end 
of  the  bay,  with  the  east  end  of  Tangik  I.sland  shut  out  by  the  south  point  at  the  entrance  to 
the  bay. 

Akun  Cove  is  the  broad  indentation  in  the  northeast  side  of  Akun  Island;  it  affords 
anchorage  at  its  head  except  with  winds  from  southeast  to  northwest,  but  heavy  williwaws 
are  experienced  with  offshore  winds.  The  bay  is  .5  miles  wide  at  its  entrance  and  about  4  miles 
long.  At  its  head,  where  the  bay  is  2)/^  miles  wide,  there  are  two  large  bights.  Anchorage 
niay  be  made  in  either  of  the  bights,  about  }4  mile  from  shore,  in  10  to  15  fathoms.  There 
are  no  known  dangers  in  the  bay  except  close  to  shore.  There  are  fre-sh-water  lakes  at  the 
heads  of  the  bights,  about  10  feet  above  liigh  water,  and  there  is  a  verj'  low  depression  from 
the  head  of  the  northern  bight  to  Lost  Harbor. 

Lost  Harbor  has  its  entrance  from  Akutan  Bay  on  the  western  side  of  Akun  Island  about 
6  miles  so\ithward  of  Akun  Head.  It  is  a  good  harbor,  sheltered  from  all  exc-ept  southwest 
winds,  and  is  large  and  easily  entered.  The  harbor  has  a  uniform  width  of  1 J^  miles  and  is 
nearly  3  miles  long  in  a  63°  true  (NE.  mag.)  direction. 

Approaching  Lost  Harbor  from  westward  pass  about  1  mile  northward  of  North  Head 
(of  Akutan  Island)  and  make  good  a  102°  true  (E.  3^  N.  mag.)  course  for  10  miles,  which  should 
lead  to  the  middle  of  the  entrance.  Then  steer  about  57°  true  (NE.  V'2  N.  mag.),  following  a 
mid-channel  course  into  the  harbor,  and  taking  care  to  give  the  northwest  shore  of  the  harbor 
a  berth  of  ^  mile  or  more  until  near  the  head.  When  about  %  mile  from  the  head  of  the 
harbor  haul  up  to  about  332°  true  (NW.  mag.)  and  anchor  about  }4  mile  from  shore  at  the 
northwest  end  of  the  head  of  the  harbor,  in  about  10  fathoms. 

Approaching  from  northward  around  Akun  Head,  follow  the  western  shore  of  Akun 
Island  at  a  distance  of  about  1  mile  until  in  the  middle  of  the  entrance  to  Lost  Harbor,  and 
then  proceed  as  directed  in  the  preceding  paragraph  to  the  anchorage. 

AKUTAN  ISLAND, 

the  largest  between  Unalaska  Island  and  LTnimak  Pass,  is  about  15  miles  long  in  a  general  east 
and  west  direction,  and  its  greatest  width  in  a  north  and  south  direction  is  about  10  miles.  The 
island  lies  about  9  miles  northeastward  from  Unalaska  Island  and  is  separated  from  the  latter 
by  Akutan  and  Unalga  passes.  Akutan  Peak,  4,100  feet  high,  is  a  little  west  of  the  middle 
60835—09 2 


18  .ikctjlk  eulxhl 


of  tfce  rlwdl  aad  its  tiAtdfc  pooit.  On  the  Mttl»*st  ade  tbe  ^and  is  siq«ntcd*fitQin  Akim 
^bnd  bjr  Atartii  Bslt  mad  Akom  Stzatt;  tfar  kitw  i$  about  ^^  male  vide,  but  tKe  ledgas  on 
bodi  adn  lenTv  a  chMinei  dbont  600  ranis  vide  at  its  nanowst  pan  vith  a  depth  of  about 
7  fatlii— I  Iben  am  strong  tide  iqis  ra  dub  diBuuid,  and  it  is  not  rMvaompttde^  As  far  as 
atr  no  dangtexs  over  H  lade  tmm  the  sh«e  of  the  i^and.  exoq>t  the  nef  on  its 


KoKfh  Hend  b  a  14^  boU  dSS,  vith  a  lar«e.  deep,  grassr  raUej  in  the  othavise  hij^ 
on  its  east  mim.  Abont  3  nuies  sonthwestvard  of  the  c^ie  thne  is  a  nanov,  grassj 
rhidk  aepantcB  the  ia^  ndge  of  Xorth  Head  from  anoAo-  h^  rid|!e:  the  wstem  side 
'uc  die  xmBier  is  a  ItuSL 

Lsm  FoiBjfc,  6  mSts  soothvcstvard  of  X<«rth  Head,  fe  moderated-  low  Ura  be^  At 
Ae  end  of  dke  point  is  a  flat  ro^  havi^  the  same  he^t  as  the  point  and  ^^thr  detncbad 
from  it. 

A  reef,  baie  at  lov  vnto-  and  eomrd  vith  ke^.  extends  T^  mile  from  the  v«st«TO  ade 
of  Akntan  Island  at  a  point  2>4  miieB  saathvard  of  Lara  Point. 

Oi^e  Mosgan,  the  soothveat  end  of  the  i^and  and  oa  the  north  side  of  Akntan  Pass,  is 
steep  and  hi^  Three  pinnade  tocks,  4  to  S  feet  hi^  he  in  the  pass  600  yards  off  the  cape, 
and  odier  bare  rodcs  extend  the  same  distance  <^  its  southeast  side.  The  ca^  should  be  given 
a  bodi  of  OTcr  H  niile. 

lintUMf  Fabtt  Caee  riev),  the  sooth  end  of  Akntan  Island,  is  {Hominoit,  sleep,  and  bi^ 
and  is  smnmnded  br  bare  roc^  close-to. 

Thete  are  a  number  of  places  vhere  Tessefe  mar  anchco-  vith  an  (rfEsfawe  vind:  bat  thej 
are  open  seawd  and  are  not  recommended.    Akntan  Harbc»-  is  the  only  secure  anchoiage. 

Vulcnn  Cove,  about  3  miles  nwtheastvmrd  ot  Battoy  Pont,  affords  shelter  in  northoiy 
v«adier,  but  is  open  to  dte  Padfie  swelL 

Hotepodngs  Bay  b  a  vide  indentation  in  Akutan  Island  open  n<Hrthvard  between  Xoith 
Head  and  Akotan  Harbm-.  The  north  point  at  the  oitrance  is  a  b^,  rocky  diff.  The  south 
point  at  the  entrance,  Sidge  Point,  hing  about  2i-^  miles  southeastward  from  the  north 
point  at  the  entrance,  is  a  narrow  ridge  about  150  feet  hi^  which  has  bare  rock  cliffs  on  its 
veat  ade,  but  ak^pes  rapidly  <m  its  east  dde  into  a  grassy  ralley  and  Sandy  Cove.  At  the 
head  of  the  bay  are  three  bights  having  streams,  and  the  southernmost  has  hot  springs  about 
1  mile  np  the  sOeam.  No  direcrions  can  be  grren  for  anchoni^  in  the  bay.  except  that  the 
andionge  is  reported  to  be  in  15  to  20  fathoms,  ^mdy  bott<Hn.  A  kelp  patch  extends  a  ^ort 
distance  into  the  bay  from  the  south  point  at  the  entrance. 

Akatan  Harbor  b  on  the  north  side  of  the  island  near  its  eastern  end.  The  harbor  is 
entered  from  northward  through  Akutan  Bay:  it  b  neariy  3^4  miles  long  and  fj  to  1^  miles 
vide.  There  are  no  known  dangers  over  300  yards  from  the  shore.  There  b  anch<»age  off 
the  north  Aare  alnvast  an  Aleut  village  about  1^$  miles  westward  of  the  north  point  at  the 
entrance  and  about  300  yards  from  the  shore  in  about  22  fathoms.  A  vessel  may  also  anchor 
in  the  broad  big^t  in  the  south  shore  in  15  fathoms,  with  the  north  point  at  the  entrance  bearing 
about  17°  true  (.V.  mag.)  and  taking  care  to  keep  clear  of  the  kelp. 

Approaehing  Atrttan  Harbor  from  Ahm  Head,  follow  the  northwest  shore  of  Akun 
Island  giving  it  a  berth  of  about  1  mile  until  abreast  the  old  crater  on  the  bland,  and  then 
steer  about  178°  true  (S.  by  K.  f^  B.  mag.)  with  Akim  Strait  oa  the  port  bow.  The  north  point 
at  the  entrance  to  Akutan  Harbor  will  be  a  little  on  the  starboard  bow  (thb  j>oint  b  a  grassy 
hummock  over  100  feet  high  and  b  connected  with  the  mainland  of  Akutan  Island  by  a  low. 
grassy  spit).  Steer  so  as  to  leave  thb  point  over  J-4  mile  on  the  starboard  hand,  round  it  at 
thb  distance,  and  then  steer  251°  true  (SW.  ^  W.  mag.)  into  the  harbor,  giving  the  shores  a 
berth  of  over  300  yards.     Anchor  off  the  village,  taking  care  to  allow  the  vessel  swinging  room. 

Pasting  north  of  North  Head  (of  Akutan  Island)  leave  it  about  1  mile  on  the  starboard  hand 
and  steer  about  107°  true  (E.  mag.l,  giving  the  shore  of  the  bland  a  berth  of  1  mile  on  the  star- 
board hand.  Having  stood  on  thb  course  about  6  miles  and  when  Ridge  Point  bears  on  the 
starboard  beam  dbtant  2  miles,  steer  150°  true  (SB.  %  B.  mag.)  about  4  miles;  the  north 


AKTrtAS   IBLASV.  19 

p<Hnt  St  the  eatnuce  to  Akntsn  Haifwr  sfaookl  then  be  fonrard  of  the  wuAoaid  be«m  diwlaiit 
nearly  ^  mile;  steer  so  as  to  leave  the  point  over  14  ^°^  ^'^  the  starboard  hand  and  enter  the 
harb<»'  as  directed  in  the  preceding  paragraph. 

AKTTAX  PASS 

b  23^  miles  wide  in  its  narrowest  p^.  There  are  ax  small  islets,  Babr  Idands,  on  the  vestom 
ade  of  the  pass,  with  manr  detached  rocks  above  water  in  the  aame  gronp,  bat  noi  extoidii^ 
beyond  the  islets  into  the  pass.  Cape  Morgan,  on  the  north  ade  of  the  pass,  flhonld  be  given 
a  berth  of  over  ^^  mile.  The  breaker  reported  in  the  middie  of  Akntan  Pass  was  searched  for 
and  does  not  exist.  The  corrent  and  tide  rips  (see  page  14)  are  not  so  strong  as  in  l^ialga 
Pass.  On  this  aecotmt,  and  becaosp  of  its  greater  width  and  the  fact  that  a  stra^ht  comae 
will  carry  throng,  this  pass  is  preferred  by  many  to  Unalga  Pass. 

Akutan  Pass  is  recommended,  in  the  daytime  with  clear  weather,  for  steamers  boand  to 
or  from  Unalaska  Bay,  and  for  sailing  vessels  from  UnalaAa  Bay  with  a  fair  wind.  From 
southward  it  is  recommended  to  make  the  land  in  the  vidnity  of  UgaldA  Ldand  and  Avatanak 
Island  and  follow  along  the  south  side  of  these  idands  until  the  course  is  ^taped  frxmi  Rootok 
Island  to  Cape  Morgan.  A  mid-channel  course  through  the  pass  is  recommended  as  the  mosA 
[Hudent  one. 

DIRECnOXS  FOR  XKTTTAX  PASS. 

From  a  position  3  miles  southward  of  Rootok  Island  a  course  2S0'  true  (W.  ?«  S.  mag.) 
made  good  for  17  miles  will  lead  If  ^  miles  southward  of  Battery  Point  and  to  a  mid-channel 
position  in  the  pass  between  Cape  Morgan  and  Baby  Islands.  Continue  the  course  3  miles 
past  Cape  Morgan  to  a  position  2  miles  off  the  north  side  of  Unalga  Island,  and  then  steer 
269°  true  (WSW.  ^  W.  mag.)  with  Battery  Point  astern.  This  course  made  good  for  S  miles 
will  lead  to  a  position  1  ^  miles  northward  of  Cape  Kalekta. 

ITSTALGA  ISLAXD 

lies  northeastward  of  Unalaska  Island  nearly  halfway  to  Akutan  Idand;  Akutan  Pass  leads 
between  Unalga  Island  and  Akutan  Island,  and  Unalga  Pass  leads  between  Unalga  Island 
and  Unalaska  Island.  Unalga  Island  is  about  A}4  miles  long  east  and  west,  about  2j-^  mfles 
wide  and  650  feet  high,  covered  with  high  grass.  Lying  north  of  the  eastern  end  of  the  island 
is  a  group  of  six  small  islands  known  as  Baby  Islands ;  between  these  and  Unalga  Island  there 
is  a  kelp-bordered  passage  (Baby  Pass)  about  ?4  mile  vade  with  a  reported  depth  of  11  fathoms. 
The  southern  and  western  shores  of  Unalga  Island  bordering  on  Unalga  Pass  are  free  from 
outlying  dangers;  but  it  is  advisable  to  give  them  a  berth  of  at  least  34  mile. 

TJnalga  Cove,  on  the  northwest  side  of  Unalga  Island,  is  about  ?s  mile  in  diameter  and 
affords  shelter  in  southerly  weather.  No  directions  are  necessary  except  to  keep  in  the  middle 
of  the  cove  and  well  clear  of  the  kelp.     The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  the  tides  is  1.2  feet. 

UXALGA  PASS, 

between  Unalga  and  Unalaska  islands,  is  the  narrowest  of  the  three  principally  used  passes, 
and  has  the  strongest  tidal  currents.  It  is  about  1}^  miles  wide  in  its  narrowest  part,  and, 
with  the  exception  of  rocks  above  water,  which  make  out  a  short  distance  from  the  points  of 
Unalaska  Island,  the  pass  is  considered  free  from  dangers.  In  the  middle  of  the  pass  there  are 
depths  of  24  to  40  fathoms,  with  deeper  water  northwestward  and  southeastward.  Its  worst 
features  are  the  strong  tidal  currents  and  tide  rips,  both  of  wliich  are  generally  considered  worse 
ill  this  pass  than  in  either  of  the  other  two;  williwa«-s  of  great  force  are  also  experienced.  The 
advantage  of  using  this  pass  in  thick  weather  is  that  the  shore  of  Unalga  Island  is  clear  of  dangers, 
and  when  made  ran  be  followed  close  enough  to  keep  it  in  sight  while  going  through. 

The  Signals,  Egg  Island,  and  Old  Man  are  the  prominent  landmarks  for  making  Unalga 
Pass  from  southeastward. 

For  currents  and  tide  rips  m  the  pass  see  page  14. 


20  TTKALGA  PASS. 

DIRECTIONS  FOB  UNALGA  PASS. 

From  Southeastward. — Passing  3  miles  southward  of  Rootoli  Island  a  coiirse  261°  true 
(SW.  by  W.  ^  W.  mag.)  made  good  for  about  20  miles  will  lead  to  a  position  2  miles  off  the 
south  side  of  Unalga  Island.  Then  steer  about  292°  true  (W.  3^  N.  mag.)  to  a  position  about 
%  mile  off  the  southwest  end  of  Unalga  Island  in  the  narrowest  part  of  the  pass. 

Or,  when  Egg  Island  is  recognized  pass  2  to  3  miles  northward  of  it,  about  midway  between 
it  and  Unalga  Island,  and  steer  about  292°  true  (W.  3^  N.  mag.)  to  a  position  about  ^  mile 
off  the  southwest  end  of  Unalga  Island  in  the  narrowest  part  of  the  pass. 

From  a  position  about  ^  mile  off  the  southwest  end  of  Unalga  Island  make  good  a  329° 
true  (NW.  J^  W.  mag.)  course  for  3  miles  to  a  position  with  Erskine  Point  1  mile  on  the  port 
beam.  Then  steer  297°  true  (W.  "J/i  N.  mag.)  for  4  miles  and  pass  1  mile  northward  of  Cape 
Kalekta. 

The  above  directions  lead  through  the  middle  of  the  pass,  and  this  is  the  safest  course 
for  any  vessel  to  follow  on  account  of  the  tide  rips  and  strength  of  the  current.  The  shore  of 
Unalga  Island,  bordering  Unalga  Pass,  as  far  as  known,  is  free  from  dangers  at  a  distance  of 
J^  mile  from  shore.  On  the  southern  side  of  the  pass  there  are  some  rocks  showing  out  of 
water,  but  not  over  J^  mile  from  the  shore. 

UNAIiASKA  ISLAND, 

\jva%  southwestward  of  Akutan  Island  and  separated  from  the  latter  by  Akutan  and  Unalga 
passes,  is  one  of  the  three  largest  "of  the  Aleutian  Islands.  The  island  is  about  67  miles  long, 
about  23  miles  wide  at  its  widest  part,  mountainovis,  and  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year 
the  mountains  are  covered  with  snow.  Makushin  Volcano,  5,691  feet  high,  the  highest  point 
on  the  island,  is  near  its  northwestern  side  about  25  miles  from  the  eastern  end  of  the  island. 
The  eastern  end  of  Unalaska  Island  was  surveyed  in  1901,  but  the  island  west  of  Biorka  Island 
and  Unalaska  Bay  is  still  imperfectly  known. 

Biorka  Island,  close  to  the  northeastern  end  of  Unalaska  Island  and  separated  from 
the  latter  by  a  narrow,  deep  strait  (Udagak  Strait),  appears  as  a  part  of  Unalaska  Island. 
A  number  of  rocks  lie  1  to  2^  miles  eastward  of  the  eastern  end  of  Biorka  Island. 

Egg  Island  is  about  %  mile  in  diameter,  550  feet  high,  and  lies  about  IJ^  miles  north- 
eastward from  the  north  point  of  Biorka  Island.  Lying  a  little  over  %  mile  west  of  Egg 
Island  are  Old  Man  Rocks,  two  rocks  surrounded  by  deep  water;  the  higher  is  about  60 
feet  high  and  flat-topped,  and  the  smaller  is  round-topped  and  lies  a  short  distance  north  of 
the  higher  rock. 

Egg  Island  Passage  leads  between  Egg  Island  and  Biorka  Cape  and  southward  of  Old 
Man  Rocks.  This  pass  is  nearly  \}^  miles  wide  and  has  a  depth  of  about  35  fathoms  in  the 
middle.  A  309°  true  (WNW.  mag.)  course  passing  midway  between  Egg  Island  and  Biorka 
Cape  leads  through  the  middle  of  the  pass. 

The  Signals  are  three  small  rocks.  The  outer  is  50  feet  high  and  hes  nearly  3  miles 
southward  from  Egg  Island.  A  small  rock,  10  feet  high  and  over  which  the  sea  washes,  lies 
a  little  over  H  mile  eastward  of  the  Outer  Signal.  The  Inner  Signal  is  180  feet  high  and 
hes  14  mile  from  the  shore  of  Biorka  Island  and  4^  miles  south  of  Egg  Island.  There 
is  apparently  deep  water  between  the  Inner  Signal  and  Outer  Signal,  but  they  should  be 
approached  with  caution. 

BEAVER  INLET 

makes  in  17  miles  in  a  235°  true  {SW.  %  S.  mag.)  direction  in  the  northeastern  end  of  Unalaska 
Island.  Its  entrance  lies  between  Biorka  Cape  on  the  southeast  and  Brundage  Head  on 
the  northwest  and  is  approached  from  southward  and  eastward  between  Egg  and  Unalga 
islands.  The  least  width  of  the  inlet  is  1  ^  miles  near  its  head  and  it  has  a  clear  and 
unobstructed  channel  its  full  length. 


BEAVEB  INLET.  21 

Udagak  Strait  separates  Biorka  Island  from  Unalaska  Island;  its  entrance  in  Beaver 
Inlet  is  9%  miles  southwestward  from  Old  Man.  This  strait  has  a  least  width  of  }4  mile,  but 
has  good  water;  there  are  some  rocks  off  the  south  spit  of  the  narrows  which  mark  three  points 
of  a  reef  the  limits  of  which  are  marked  by  kelp;  one  or  more  of  the  rocks  are  always  visible. 
To  pass  through  the  strait  follow  a  mid-channel  track,  giving  the  two  gravel  spits  a  good  berth. 
There  is  an  anchorage,  sheltered  from  all  winds,  in  Udagak  Bay,  an  indentation  in  the  west 
shore  of  the  strait  about  33^  miles  from  its  entrance  in  Beaver  Inlet. 

There  are  a  number  of  bays  making  off  from  Beaver  Inlet  in  which  vessels  may  anchor, 
but  those  on  the  south  side  of  the  inlet  are  open  northward  and  northwestward  and  those  on 
the  north  side  are  open  southward  and  eastward. 

Udamat  Bay,  on  the  northwest  side  of  Biorka  Island,  5^^  miles  southwestward  from 
Old  Man,  extends  2^  miles  in  a  186°  true  {S.  by  E.  mag.)  direction,  has  a  general  width  of  % 
mile  near  its  head,  and  has  a  deep  and  unobstructed  channel.  There  is  a  small  native  village 
on  the  north  side  of  the  point  at  the  east  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay.  Vessels  may  anchor 
in  the  southeastern  end  of  the  bay,  taking  care  to  have  room  to  swing. 

Strait  Bay  makes  into  Biorka  Island  from  Beaver  Inlet  just  east  of  Udagak  Strait;  the 
Pathfinder  anchored  in  the  head  of  this  bay. 

Amugul  Bay  makes  southward  from  Beaver  Inlet  about  3  miles  southwestward  of  the 
entrance  to  Udagak  Strait.  The  Pathfinder  anchored  in  a  cove  in  the  southwestern  and  broadest 
part  of  the  bay.     There  is  a  small  island  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay. 

At  the  head  of  Beaver  Inlet  there  are  four  small  bays;  named  in  order,  following  the  south 
shore  around  to  the  north  shore,  they  are  Tanaskan,  Final,  Kisselen,  and  Erskine.  The 
Pathfinder  anchored  near  the  head  in  Final  and  Erskine  bays. 

Uniktali  Bay  makes  into  the  north  shore  of  Beaver  Inlet  about  15  miles  above  its  entrance; 
this  bay  is  nearly  3  miles  long  in  a  westerly  direction  and  3^  mile  wide  at  its  narrowest  part 
near  its  head. 

Agamgik  Bay  and  Ugadaga  Bay  are  two  indentations  in  the  north  shore  of  Beaver 
Inlet  53^  and  8  miles,  respectively,  above  the  entrance  of  the  inlet.  From  the  head  of  Ugadaga 
Bay  a  trail  leads  to  the  village  of  Iliuhuk.  There  are  rocks  off  the  western  point  at  the  entrance 
to  Agamgik  Bay. 

Deep  Bay  is  the  bight  on  the  north  side  of  the  entrance  to  Beaver  Inlet,  and  is  protected 
from  northeastward  by  a  long  ledge  and  several  small  islets  which  make  off  about  J^  mile  from 
the  shore.     The  Pathfinder  anchored  in  the  northwestern  corner  of  the  bay. 

The  places  in  Beaver  Inlet  where  the  Pathfinder  anchored  were  used  only  as  anchorages 
for  the  night  while  that  vessel  was  engaged  in  surveying  in  the  locaUty. 

ENGLISH  BAY 

is  a  secure  anchorage  in  the  north  side  of  Unalaska  Island,  directly  south  of  the  west  end  of 
Unalga  Island.  The  best  anchorage  is  nearly  2  miles  above  the  entrance  in  about  6  or  7  fathoms; 
the  width  of  the  anchorage  between  the  5-fathom  curves  is  here  about  300  yards.  There  are  bare 
rocks  oft"  both  points  at  the  entrance,  between  which  the  channel  has  a  width  of  about  %  mile. 
When  about  IJ^  miles  above  the  entrance  the  western  shore  should  be  given  a  berth  of  over 
400  yards  to  avoid  a  shoal  with  1  to  3  fathoms  over  it  which  stretches  along  the  shore  l^  mile. 
In  entering  care  must  be  taken  not  to  be  set  off'  the  course  by  the  strong  currents  in  Unalga  Pass, 
which  have  a  maximum  velocity  of  about  9  miles;  follow  a  mid-channel  track  or  favor  the 
eastern  shore  and  anchor  in  6  to  7  fathoms  in  the  middle  of  the  bay  nearly  2  miles  above  the 
entrance.  Good  holding  ground  in  depths  of  12  to  17  fathoms  will  be  found  M  to  1}^  miles 
inside  the  entrance.  There  is  a  small  fisliing  village  on  the  eastern  point  (Fisherman  Point)  at 
the  entrance  to  the  bay.  From  Fisherman  Point  eastward  a  little  over  1  mile  to  Brundage 
Head,  there  are  ledges  and  rocks  which  lie  some  distance  from  the  shore. 


88  *  ITf ALASKA   ISLAND. 

KALEKTA  BAY 

is  a  broad,  open  bay  in  the  north  end  of  Unalaska  Island  just  east  of  Unalaska  Bay;  it  has 
no  known  dangers  over  400  yanls  from  the  shore,  and  there  are  a  number  of  places  where  a 
vessel  may  anchor;  but  as  this  bay  is  open  northward  and  English  Bay  and  Dutch  Harbor 
are  better  harbors  it  is  not  recommended.  There  is  a  pinnacle  rock  off  Elrskine  Point,  the 
eastern  point  at  the  entrance,  somewhat  similar  to  P*riest  Rock:  but  tliis  rock  is  distinguished 
by  a  smaller  one  between  it  and  Erskine  Point. 

UNALASKA  BAY 

is  the  indentation  making  m  to  the  north  end  of  Unalaska  Island  between  Cape  Kalekta  and 
Cape  CheerfiU.  Commercially  it  is  one  of  the  most  important  bays  in  western  Alaska.  Its 
shores  are  generally  moimtainous,  with  precipitous  sea  faces.  Amaknak  Island  lies  in  its 
southern  end.  Westward  of  the  island  the  water  is  deep,  but  there  is  no  good  harbor  in  this 
part  of  the  bay:  eastward  of  the  island  are  the  important  anchorages  of  Iliuliuk  Bay,  Dutch 
Harbor,  and  Diuliuk  Harbor.  The  channel  to  Ihuliuk  Bay  and  Dutch  Harbor  is  free  from 
dangers,  except  along  the  shores.  Iliuliuk  Harbor  is  obstructed  at  its  entrance  by  ledges, 
but   with   the   aid   of   the   buoy   is  not    difficult   to   enter   with   a   small   vessel. 

Cape  Kalekta  (see  view),  500  feet  high,  is  the  eastern  point  at  the  entrance  to  Unalaska 
Bay.  The  extremity  and  western  side  of  the  cape  are  rugged,  precipitous  cliffs,  with  a  few 
rocks  but  no  beach  at  the  water  line.  From  the  summit  of  the  cape  the  land  falls  to  the  break 
at  Constantine  Bay,  and  then  rises  to  higher  land  farther  south.  A  dangerous  ledge,  usually 
marked  by  breakers,  lies  nearh'  %  mile  northward  of  the  cape.  The  cape  should  be  given  a  berth 
of  1  mile  or  more  to  cle.ar  the  ledge,  as  the  strong  tidal  currents  may  tend  to  carry  a  vessel 
on  it. 

Priest  Hock  (see  view),  close-to  off  the  northwest  side  of  Cape  Kalekta,  is  a  pinnacle 
about  SO  feet  liigh. 

Cape  Cheerful,  the  western  point  at  the  entrance  to  Unalaska  Bay,  is  made  up  of  bold, 
very  high  headlands,  roimded  on  top,  and  intersected  by  deep,  grassy  valleys.  The  shore 
is  free  from  dangers  and  has  deep  water  close-to.  A  cascade,  125  feet  high,  south  of  Cape 
Cheerful,  can  be  seen  from  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Kalekta,  and  is  sometimes  useful  in  thick  weather, 
when  only  the  lower  part  of  the  land  can  be  seen. 

Ulakta  Head,  the  north  end  of  Amaknak  Island,  is  900  feet  liigh.  It  has  a  flat  top,  and 
in  clear  weather  it  is  one  of  the  best  landmarks  for  fixing  the  position  of  Unalaska  Bay.  From 
its  northwest  point  a  reef  extends  J^  mile,  marked  by  Needle  Rock,  similar  in  appearanc*  to 
Priest  Rock,  but  not  so  large.  From  its  northeast  point  a  long,  narrow,  grassy,  shingle  spit 
extends  southward  IJ-g  miles;  its  southern  end,  called  Spithead,  is  marked  by  a  black  and 
white  wooden  beacon  which  is  Uable  to  be  destroyed  by  hea^-A•  gales.  A  shack  stands  on  the 
spit,  about  midway  its  length. 

Princes  Head,  2  miles  from  Cape  Kalekta,  is  a  large,  square-headed  rock  that  projects 
from  the  shore  far  enough  to  be  seen,  even  in  thick  weather,  when  following  the  east  shore. 

Constantine  Bay,  about  4  miles  from  Cape  Kalekta,  is  obstructed  by  numerous  ledges, 
many  of  which  are  only  evident  from  the  attached  kelp.  It  is  of  no  importance  and  should 
be  avoided  by  all  vessels. 

Summer  Bay,  the  large,  shallow  bight  3  miles  from  Constantine  Bay  and  opposite  Ulakta 
Head,  is  shoal,  and  its  shores  are  lined  with  kelp-marked  rocks  and  ledges.  At  its  southern 
headland  is  Second  Priest,  about  60  feet  high.     The  bay  should  be  avoided  by  vessels. 

Iliuliuk  Bay  extends  from  Second  Priest  and  Ulakta  Head  to  lUuhuk.  Northward 
of  Spithead  there  is  a  ridge  extending  across  the  bay,  with  depths  of  7  to  12  fathoms.  South 
of  this  ridge  the  depths  increase  to  16  and  19  fathoms.  There  is  anchorage  anywhere  in  the 
bay.  The  usual  anchorage  is  at  the  head  in  14  to  16  fathoms,  muddy  bottom,  where,  even 
with  northerly  winds,  the  force  of  the  sea  does  not  seem  to  reach  home.     At  the  head  of  Ihuhuk 


BATTERY  POINT,  AKUTAN  ISLAND-FROM  EASTWARD. 


nr^rfe'tTfc 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Sr 

^^^^^^ 

i^;: 

i 

CAPE  KALEKTA,  W.   H  S.  5  MILES. 

UNALASKA  ISLAND. 


PRIEST  ROCK. 


PRIEST  ROCK.  CAPE  KALEKTA,  NE.  BY  E.,  DISTANT  3  MILE& 


UNALASKA   BAY. 


2d 


Say,  behind  the  village,  there  is  a  ravine  or  break  in  the  mountains,  wliich  extends  through  to 
the  water  southward.     This  is  sometimes  useful  as  a  guide  in  entering  the  bay. 


DUTCH  HARBOB 


is  on  the  west  side  of  Iliuliuk  Bay.  Its  entrance  is  between  Spithead  and  Rocky  Point.  The 
water  is  deep  close  to  the  shores  and  in  all  parts  of  the  harbor,  except  off  Rocky  Point,  where 
there  is  a  reef  making  off  a  little  less  than  )/i  mile,  marked  at  its  end  by  a  black  can  buoy.  The 
entrance  between  Spithead  and  the  end  of  the  reef  off  Rocky  Point  is  about  3^  mile  wide,  with 
a  depth  of  18  fathoms.  Anchorage  may  be  had  throughout  the  harbor  in  14  to  19  fathoms. 
Violent  williwaws  are  experienced  during  gales,  especially  from  southwest,  and  the  best  shelter 
will  be  found  under  the  liigh  part  of  the  island  well  northward  of  the  wharf. 

The  headquarters  of  the  North  American  Commercial  Company  for  this  part  of  Alaska 
are  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Dutch  Harbor.  In  front  of  their  warehouses  and  coal  depot 
a  T-shaped  wharf  extends  out  to  deep  water.  Large  vessels  can  lie  at  the  outer  end,  and  there 
is  ample  room  for  small  vessels  on  the  inside  of  the  T.     The  post  office  here  is  called  Udakta. 

Supplies. — Coal  is  kept  for  sale  by  the  company,  and  can  be  obtained,  delivered  on  the 
wharf,  at  SIO  to  $12  per  ton,  at  the  rate  of  150  to  250  tons  per  day.  Fresh  water  can  be  ob- 
tained from  a  hydrant  on  the  wharf  at  3^  cent  per  gallon. 

The  company's  store  carries  a  supply  of  sliip  chandlery  and  outfits,  and  is  well  stocked 
with  canned  goods  and  salt  provisions.     Fresh  meats  and  provisions  can  be  obtained  at  times. 

There  is  a  small  machine  shop  and  blacksmith  shop,  where  light  work  can  be  done  by  the 
vessel's  own  force. 


IlilUIilTJE  BLARBOR 


is  joined  to  the  head  of  Iliuliuk  Bay  by  the  passage  between  Iliuliuk  Reef  and  the  village  of 
Iliuliuk  (Unalaska  post  office).  The  harbor  is  small  and  the  channel  leading  into  it  narrow, 
and  it  is  suitable  only  for  small  or  moderate-sized  vessels. 

Channels. — The  channel  always  used  is  the  one  southward  of  Iliuliuk  Reef,  on  either 
side  of  Tuscarora  Rock,  and  has  a  least  depth  of  about  5  fathoms.  The  channel  northward 
of  Tuscarora  Rock  is  straighter  than  that  southward  of  it  and  is  to  be  preferred.  There  is  a 
channel  north  of  Iliuliuk  Reef,  between  it  and  North  Rock,  which  has  a  least  depth  of  3 
fathoms,  but  it  should  not  be  attempted  except  with  local  knowledge. 

Anchorage. — Iliuliuk  Harbor  is  small,  but  landlocked,  with  good  holding  ground,  and 
an  average  depth  of  10  fathoms.  Violent  williwaws  are  experienced  with  strong  southwest 
gales.  The  headquarters  of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company  are  at  Iliuliuk,  and  the  com- 
pany has  a  wharf  projecting  into  the  harbor  at  its  entrance  from  the  western  end  of  the  spit  on 
which  the  village  is  located,  with  depths  of  4}^  to  53^  fathoms  along  its  northwest  face. 

Iliuliuk  is  the  original  Russian  settlement.  There  is  a  Greek  church  with  a  parochial 
school,  also  a  Methodist  mission  school.  The  post  office,  United  States  deputy  collector, 
and  United  States  commissioner  for  this  general  locality  are  located  here.  The  post  office  is 
called  Unalaska. 

Supplies,  etc. — The  Alaska  Commercial  Company  has  a  well-stocked  general  store  and 
commodious  warehouses  at  Iliuliuk.  Coal  is  kept  on  hand  for  sale,  with  similar  facihties  to 
those  at  Dutch  Harbor  for  coaling.  Fresh  water  can  be  obtained  at  the  wharf,  and  boats  can 
water  on  Amaknak  Island,  opposite  the  wharf.  Lumber  can  usually  be  obtained  in  limited 
quantities. 

Tides. — The  mean  rise  and  fall  in  Dutch  Harbor  is  2  feet.  The  tidal  current  in  Dutch 
Harbor  is  inappreciable,  and  in  Iliuliuk  Harbor  the  velocity  does  not  exceed  1  mile  an  hour. 

Ice.— The  bay  is  open  to  navigation  at  all  seasons.  It  is  reported  that  on  two  occasions 
the  drift  ice  of  Bering  Sea  entered  Unalaska  Bay,  but  such  an  occurrence  is  so  rare  that  it  need 
not  be  considered.  Ice  often  forms  in  the  sheltered  coves  and  harbors  in  cold,  calm  weather, 
but  it  never  attains  any  thickness  or  interferes  with  navigation. 


24  UNAI^ASKA  BAY. 

DIRECTIONS  FOR  UNALASKA  BAY. 

When  bound  for  Unalaska  Bay  from  any  part  of  Bering  Sea,  it  is  recommended  to  shape 
the  course  for  Cape  Cheerful.  In  thick  weather  it  is  better  to  fall  westward  of  Cape  Cheerful 
and  then  round  it  than  to  fall  eastward  of  it  and  get  down  into  the  passes.  Makushiu 
Volcano,  5,691  feet  high,  can  generally  be  seen  in  clear  weather,  and  is  prominent.  An  extinct 
crater,  2,314  feet  high,  back  of  Cape  Cheerful  and  west  of  Eider  Point,  gives  a  distinct  point 
for  which  to  steer  until  close  enough  to  distinguish  the  surrounding  features.  On  getting  close 
to  the  island,  when  the  fog  hangs  over  the  land  but  leaves  a  clear  space  just  along  the  water's 
edge,  Wislow  Island  forms  a  good  mark.  It  is  in  a  small  bay  about  2  miles  westward  of 
Cape  Cheerful,  and  is  a  small,  rounded  island,  regular  in  shape,  and  stands  far  enough  from 
the  land  to  be  seen  as  not  a  part  of  the  main  island.  Westward,  under  similar  conditions, 
Makushin  Cape  can  be  seen  at  times.  The  land  slopes  gently  to  the  cape  from  Makushin 
Volcano,  and  ends  in  a  small  peak-like  formation.  From  eastward  the  cascade  south  of  Cape 
Cheerful  is  also  useful  as  a  mark.  Strangers,  when  in  the  vicinity  and  uncertain  of  the  identity 
of  the  bay  and  its  landmarks,  should  endeavor  to  pick  out  Ulakta  Head.  Looking  into  the 
bay,  its  flat  top  breaking  off  abruptly  to  sloping  sides  presents  an  appearance  unlike  any  other 
in  the  vicinity,  and  shows  up  well  against  the  background  of  mountains.  When  sighted,  steer 
for  it,  leave  it  on  the  starboard  hand,  and  follow  around,  keeping  out  of  kelp. 

Cape  Kalekta  to  anchorage. ^ — Having  arrived  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Kalekta,  give  it  a 
berth  of  over  1  mile  in  rounding  it,  and  steer  for  Ulakta  Head,  course  214°  true  (S.  by  W.  )4 
W.  mag.)  about  4  miles.  When  the  south  point  at  the  entrance  to  Constantine  Bay  is  abeam, 
distant  1  mile,  change  coiurse  to  195°  true  (S.  %  E.  mag.)  for  about  33^  miles  to  a  mid-channel 
position  in  Iliuliuk  Bay  eastward  of  Ulakta  Head.  Then  follow  a  mid-channel  course  through 
Iliuliuk  Bay,  course  about  220°  true  (SSW.  mag.),  and  anchor  M  to  3^  mile  from  the  head 
of  the  bay  in  14  to  16  fathoms,  muddy  bottom. 

To  enter  Dutch  Harbor  pass  between  Spithead  and  the  |)uoy  off  Rocky  Point,  and  anchor 
in  the  harbor  as  desired  in  about  18  fathoms,  muddy  bottom. 

At  night  the  spit  is  difficult  to  make  out,  and  the  following  may  be  useful:  Stand  through 
Iliuliuk  Bay  in  mid-channel,  taking  care  to  keep  clear  of  the  reef  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  spit, 
and  when  the  lowest  part  of  Amaknak  Island,  at  the  southwest  end  of  Dutch  Harbor,  bears 
276°  true  (W.  by  S.  mag.)  steer  for  it,  keeping  the  bearing,  which  leads  in  mid-channel  between 
Spithead  and  Rocky  Point  buoy.  On  this  course  the  high  mountain  on  the  eastern  side,  south 
of  Summer  Bay,  should  be  directly  astern. 

To  enter  Iliuliuk  Harhor,  stand  southward  through  Iliuliuk  Bay  on  the  220°  true  (SSW. 
mag.)  course  until  the  buoy  or  kelp  marking  Tuscorara  Rock  is  sighted.  Then  haul  westward 
and  pass  the  buoj^  close-to  on  either  side,  keeping  out  of  the  kelp.  Both  Tuscarora  Rock  and 
IliuUuk  Reef  are  marked  by  kelp,  which,  with  care,  serves  as  a  guide  if  the  buoy  is  not  in  place. 
When  clear  of  Tuscarora  Rock  haul  northward  to  pass  in  mid-channel  southward  of  the  dry 
rocks  of  Iliuliuk  Reef  and  pass  close  to  the  north  corner  of  the  wharf.  Small  vessels  may 
anchor  in  the  middle  of  the  harbor  in  10  fathoms;  the  western  side  of  the  harbor  should  be 
given  a  berth  of  over  100  j'ards. 

Remarks. — Sailing  vessels  entering  Dutch  Harbor  should  carry  sufficient  sail  to  keep 
good  way  on  \mtil  past  the  beacon  on  Spithead.  It  has  frequently  occurred  that  vessels, 
shortening  sail  at  Ulakta  Head,  have  been  set  toward  the  shoal  on  the  east  side  of  the  spit 
owing  to  little  headway  and  the  wind  drawing  ahead.  They  are  then  obliged  to  anchor  in 
an  exposed  place,  and  steam  assistance  is  not  always  available. 

The  214°  true  (S.  by  W.  }^  W.  mag.)  course  from  Cape  Kalekta  follows  the  shore  northward 
of  Constantine  Bay  at  a  distance  of  about  1  mile.  In  thick  weather,  when  following  the  east 
shore,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  enter  Constantine  or  Summer  bays  by  mistake.  This  has 
sometimes  occurred  when  the  opposite  headland  could  not  be  made  out.  If  passing  south- 
ward of  Tuscarora  Rock,  vessels  are  obliged  to  make  a  sharp  turn  westward,  and  care  should 
be  observed. 

Dangers. — A  large  cluster  of  rocks,  mostly  awash,  and  usually  marked  by  breakers, 
extends  nearly  200  yards  westward  of  the  south  head  of  Constantine  Bay. 


UNALASKA  BAY.  26 

Second  Priest,  near  the  south  point  of  Summer  Bay,  is  surrounded  by  reefs,  awash 
and  under  water,  for  a  distance  of  300  yards.  Between  Second  Priest  and  a  point  opposite 
the  entrance  to  Dutch  Harbor  the  east  shore  is  fringed  with  rocks  and  should  not  be  approached 
closer  than  J^  mile. 

The  spit  has  a  kelp-marked  shoal  on  its  east  side  which  extends  its  whole  length;  at  its 
middle  point  the  shoal  extends  i^  mile  from  shore.  Spithead  is  bold-to,  and  may  be  safely 
approached  as  close  as  150  yards. 

Rocky  Point  has  a  kelp-marked  reef  which  extends  toward  Spithead  about  350  yards; 
eastward  of  the  point  the  shoal  makes  out  about  200  yards  with  little  kelp.  The  north- 
eastern extremity  of  the  reef  is  marked  by  a  buoy  (can,  black.  No.  1)  in  7  fathoms. 

From  Rocky  Point  south,  the  shore  of  Amaknak  Island  should  not  be  approached  closer  than 
300  yards. 

Iliuliuk  Reef  is  a  ledge,  portions  of  which  are  always  exposed,  extending  250  yards  in 
an  east  and  west  direction.  From  the  eastern  dry  rock  a  ledge,  with  12  to  15  feet  over  it  and 
marked  by  kelp,  extends  150  yards  177°  trjie  (S.  by  E.  %  E.  mag.) 

Tuscarora  Rock  is  a  3-fathom  spot,  having  some  kelp,  which  lies  about  60  yards  169° 
true  {SSE.  3^  E.  mag.)  from  the  southern  extremity  of  Iliuliuk  Reef.  It  is  of  small  extent  and~is 
marked  by  a  buoy  (nun,  red,  No.  2).  The  3-fathom  curve  on  the  edge  of  the  shoal  making 
out  from  the  shore  is  about  60  yards  southward  of  Tuscarora  Rock,  and  is  sometimes  marked 
by  a  small  black  buoy. 


BEKIKG  SEA. 


The  portions  of  Bering  Sea  here  treated  include  the  coast  and  islands  of  Alaska  north- 
ward of  the  Aleutian  Islands.  Excepting  a  few  localities,  this  territory  has  not  b^en  surveyed, 
and  the  charts  of  it  are  only  compilations  from  various  sources,  with  corrections  made  from 
later  information  received;  the  charts  are  necessarily  imperfect  and  must  not  be  followed 
implicitly,  especially  when  in  the  vicinity  of  the  coast.  Then,  too,  the  currents  are  much 
influenced  by  the  winds,  and  are  inaperfectly  known  and  difficult  to  predict,  so  that  positions 
by  dead  reckoning  are  uncertain  and  safety  depends  upon  constant  vigilance. 

Northward  and  eastward  of  the  100-fathom  line  the  waters  of  Bering  Sea  shoal  gradually 
to  the  coast.  There  are  no  dangers  in  the  open  sea,  unless  the  Pribilof  Islands,  St.  Lawrence 
Island,  St.  Matthew  Island,  King  Island,  and  Diomede  Islands  be  considered  as  such.  These, 
being  volcanic  in  character  and  rocky,  are  generally  bold-to,  and  in  approaching  them  in  thick 
weather  the  lead  can  not  be  depended  upon  at  all  times  to  keep  clear  of  them.  The  coast 
of  the  mainland  from  the  head  of  Bristol  Bay  to  St.  Michael,  including  Nunivak  Island,  is 
characterized  by  extensive  banks,  formed  by  deposits  from  tbie  rivers,  which  extend  many 
miles  from  shore,  in  some  cases  out  of  sight  of  land.  Some  of  these  shoals  are  believed  to  be 
quite  steep-to  on  their  seaward  faces,  making  it  imsafe  to  shoal  the  water  to  less  than  10  fathoms 
when  in  their  vicinity.  • 

In  this  region,  where  fog  and  thick  weather  are  the  rule  during  the  season  of  navigation, 
safety,  when  near  the  coast,  depends  on  the  use  of  the  lead,  which,  on  account  of  the  generally 
regular  bottom,  will  indicate  the  approach  to  danger.  In  general,  all  the  shores  of  Bering 
Sea  and  the  Ai-ctic  Ocean  are  shallow,  and  when  coasting  it  should  be  observed  as  a  rule  to  keep 
the  lead  going  constantly,  and  when  north  of  St.  Michael  never  to  shoal  the  water  to  less  than 
5  fathoms  unless  feeling  the  way  in  to  the  land.  Between  St.  Michael  and  the  head  of  Bristol 
Bay  the  water  should  not  be  shoaled  to  less  than  10  fathoms  under  the  same  conditions. 

There  are  few  aids  to  navigation.  All  of  the  rocky  islands  and  rocky  cliffs  of  the  main- 
land are  frequented  by  thousands  of  birds,  whose  numbers,  constant  cries,  and  flight  may 
serve  to  indicate  the  approach  to  shore  at  these  places  in  thick  weather. 


26  BEBING  SEA.  , 

The  coast  of  Alaska  from  the  head  of  Bristol  Bay  to  Point  Barrow  and  eastward  has 
driftwood,  which  is  brought  down  from  the  interior  by  the  rivers  and  carried  by  the  northerly 
currents  of  the  sea.  Good  water  can  always  be  found  in  the  vicinity  of  high  land.  Salmon 
are  plentiful  during  the  open  season  in  all  the  streams  as  far  north  as  Kotzebue  Sound,  and 
cod  are  plentiful  in  the  vicinity  of  the  passes  and  in  Bristol  Bay. 

Ice. — Except  in  bays  and  sheltered  places,  .the  ice  of  Bering  Sea  is  detached  fields,  floes, 
and  cakes,  which  are  continually  kept  in  motion,  breaking  up,  pUing,  and  telescoping  by  the 
action  of  variable  winds  and  currents.  At  no  time  is  the  sea  one  solid  sheet  of  ice,  and  in  the 
winter,  while  it  is  forming,  it  is  more  scattered  than  in  the  spring,  when  the  northerly  move- 
ment has  begun  and  it  packs  closer  together.  The  general  southern  limit  of  ice  is  from  Bristol 
Bay  to  the  vicinity  of  St.  George  Island,  and  thence  about  west-northwest  to  the  Siberian  shore. 
The  southern  edge  is  ragged  and  very  much  scattered,  and  continued  northerly  winds  sometimes 
drive  fields  of  it  far  southward.  As  a  rule,  no  heavy  ice  will  be  encountered  south  of  the 
Pribilof  Islands,  and  the  ice  in  their  vicinity  is  likely  to  be  nothing  more  than  detached  fields. 

The  ice  conditions  in  Bristol  Bay  have  so  far  received  little  notice.  Reports  have  been 
received  that  the  bay  is  usually  free  from  heavy  ice  between  the  middle  of  May  and  Jime  10. 
IiTlSQQ  the  steamer  Jeanie,  of  1,000  tons  and  a  draft  of  18  feet,  reached  Clark  Point,  in  Nushagak 
River,  on  April  4,  and  was  discharged  on  April  15.  At  this  time  the  ice  in  the  river  above 
Fort  Alexander  remained  solid,  but  two  weeks  afterwards  it  broke  up  and  came  down  the  river 
in  large  pieces,  which  would  have  endangered  any  vessel  at  anchor.  In  approaching  the  Nusha- 
gak River  some  ice  was  encountered  about  75  miles  from  Cape  Constantine,  but  not  sufficient 
to  seriously  interfere  with  navigation.  On  May  10,  1896,  a  vessel  bound  for  Bristol  Bay  was 
brought  up  by  the  ice,  which  extended  from  Port  Moller  to  St.  George  Island,  and  she  was 
not  able  to  reach  the  Nushagak  River  until  thirty  days  later.  It  is  within  reason  to  believe 
that  some  years  Bristol  Bay  is  open  to  navigation  all  winter,  though  the  rivers  and  sheltered 
bays  are  closed. 

In  the  spring,  beginning  with  AprU,  there  is  a  general  northward  movement  of  the  ice, 
the  shores  clearing  ahead  of  the  center  of  the  sea;  but  it  sometimes  hangs  in  the  bays  and 
around  the  islands  later  than  in  the  open  sea.  Seasons  vary,  the  movement  and  position  of  the 
ice  depending  greatly  on  the  direction  of  the  winds.  Generally,  however,  by  June  1  the  whole 
body  of  ice  is  well  up  with  St.  Lawrence  Island,  and  a  passage  opens  to  its  west  side.  The 
eastern  side  of  the  sea  is  likely  to  be  obstructed  a  little  later  than  the  western  side,  and  ice  is 
often  met  between  St.  Lawrence  Island  and  Nunivak  Island  in  the  early  part  of  June.  The 
breaking  out  of  the  rivers  toward  the  latter  part  of  May  clears  the  shores,  but  the  ice  is  hkely  to 
hold  in  Norton  Sound  several  weeks  later. 

In  general,  for  a  vessel  not  fitted  to  encounter  ice,  Norton  Sound  is  not  navigable  before 
the  middle  of  June,  often  not  before  June  20  to  25,  and  has  been  known  to  be  as  late  as  July 
10.  On  entering  tlie  sound  about  this  time,  strips  of  ice  are  often  encountered  after  the  sound 
can  be  said  to  be  navigable.  .From  the  deck  these  may  appear  extensive  and  solid,  but  from 
aloft  clear  water  may  be  seen  beyond  and  through  them.  At  the  opening  of  navigation  the  ice 
is  likely  to  be  heaviest  and  to  remain  longest  on  the  north  shore,  and,  in  general,  it  is  the  last 
of  June  before  that  part  of  the  sound  is  altogether  clear. 

In  the  fall  young  ice  begins  to  form  on  the  rivers,  and  in  the  bays  and  sheltered  places 
after  October  1,  and  grows  stronger  and  spreads  according  to  the  severity  of  the  advancing 
season.     Navigation  is  considered  unsafe  in  Norton  Sound  after  October  15. 

Currents. — There  has  been  no  systematic  study  of  the  currents  of  Bering  Sea,  and  the 
almost  constant  fogs  prevent  the  navigator  from  adding  much  to  our  meager  knowledge  con- 
cerning them.  It  is  said  that  in  general  the  currents  are  greatly  influenced  by  the  tide  and 
winds.  The  following  observations  apply  to  the  open  season,  when  the  flow  of  the  currents  is 
not  obstructed  by  ice: 

Between  Cape  Cheerful  and  St.  George  Island  the  current  is  not  believed  to  have  any 
decided  set  or  flow  unless  influenced  by  the  wind.     With  a  strong  wind  a  current  is  likely  to 


AliASKA.  27 

set  with  it,  but  J^  point  allowance  ia  a  course  will  be  sufficient  to  overcome  any  set  that  will 
be  found  in  this  vicinity  due  to  this  cause. 

Between  St.  Matthew  and  Nunivak  islands  the  set  of  the  current  is  northward;  with  pre- 
vailing northeast  winds  it  sets  northwest,  and  with  northwest  and  southwest  winds,  northeast. 
This  northerly  current  continues  and  increases  between  St.  Lawrence  Island  and  the  main- 
land, being  stronger  toward  the  mainland  north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Yukon  Kiver,  where  it 
amounts  to  about  1  mile,  except  in  the  early  summer,  when,  increased  by  the  freshets  in  the 
Yukon,  it  may  amount  to  2  miles  or  more.*  The  current  sets  north  across  Norton  Sound  to 
Sledge  Island  and  then  follows  the  coast  to  Bering  Strait.  It  is  strongly  marked  between 
Sledge  Island  and  Bering  Strait. 

In  Bering  Strait  the  current  sets  north,  and  when  not  influenced  by  wind  its  velocity  is 
about  2  miles  an  hour.  Protracted  northerly  gales  which  prevail  in  the  autumn  change  its 
direction  to  the  southward,  but  on  the  cessation  of  the  wind  it  quickly  sets  north  again.  Strong 
southerly  gales  increase  its  velocity  to  3  miles.  The  current  is  stronger  east  of  the  Diomede 
Islands  than  west  of  them. 

A  current  sets  strongly  from  Cape  Newenham  through  Etolin  Strait. 

Tidal  currents. — In  the  southern  part  of  Bering  Sea,  inside  the  100-fathom  line,  and 
through  the  various  passes  in  the  Aleutian  Islands,  the  tidal  current  sets  northward  or  north- 
eastward during  the  rising  tide,  and  southward  or  southwestward  during  the  falling  tide.  In 
some  of  the  passes  it  sometimes  has  a  velocity  of  9  miles  an  hour;  when  clear  of  the  passes  its 
maximum  velocity  is  about  23^  miles.  At  the  Pribilof  Islands,  Nunivak,  St.  Matthew,  and 
St.  Lawrence  islands  the  tidal  currents  have  considerable  velocity.  The  flood  current  sets 
eastward  and  northward  and  the  ebb  westward  and  southward.  In  Bristol  Bay  the  tidal 
currents  have  great  velocity.  They  have  also  considerable  velocity  at  the  Kuskokwim  River 
and  north  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yukon,  especially  in  Etolin  Strait  and  about  Cape  Vancouver. 

Fog  is  most  prevalent  during  spring,  summer,  and  early  fall,  and  it  generally  begins  to 
clear  about  the  middle  of  October.  In  summer  fog  is  almost  continuous,  but  few  days  are 
clear  from  morning  to  night,  and  the  tops  of  the  mountains  can  seldom  be  seen.  At  the  sur- 
face of  the  water  it  is  generally  sufficiently  clear  to  make  out  the  shore  at  a  distance  of  3  or  4 
miles,  but  at  times  it  is  so  thick  that  nothing  can  be  made  out,  and  under  such  conditions 
strangers  should  not  attempt  to  make  the  land.  During  the  summer  months  the  mist  and 
fog  are  considered  to  be  worse  on  the  south  side  of  the  Aleutian  Islands  than  on  the  north  side 
in  their  immediate  vicinity. 

Weather. — The  most  striking  feature  about  the  weather  in  Bering  Sea  is  its  great  un- 
certainty throughout  the  year.  Good  weather  is  rare  and  not  lasting,  and  the  winds  can  not 
be  depended  upon  to  remain  long  in  one  quarter.  The  late  spring  and  summer  are  mild  and 
very  foggy,  with  frequent  periods  of  light  weather,  comparatively  few  strong  winds,  and  con- 
siderable rain.  After  September  1,  gales  become  frequent  and  heavy,  fogs  gradually  lessen, 
and  toward  the  latter  part  of  the  month  snow  often  accompanies  the  storms.  During  all  the  fall, 
gales  are  frequent,  violent,  and  from  almost  any  quarter. 

During  the  fall  and  winter  there  are  often  periods  of  very  low  barometer  (readings  below 
29.00  being  common)  accompanied  by  moderate  to  strong  gales,  with  rain  or  snow.  These 
gales,  though  sometimes  very  severe,  are  usually  not  so  strong  as  would  be  expected  by  the 
fall  of  the  barometer.  After  December  and  continuing  into"  the  spring  there  are  often  periods 
of  moderate  weather,  and  while  severe  gales  occur,  they  are  less  frequent  than  in  the  fall. 
Strong  winds  or  gales  from  any  quarter  always  bring  thick  weather,  rain,  or  snow.  With 
easterly  or  southerly  winds  the  rain  is  continuous,  while  with  westerly  or  northerly  winds  the 
rain  or  snow  occurs  at  intervals  in  squalls,  and  when  the  wind  subsides  the  weather  is  likely  to 
be  clear. 

Southeast  gales,  with  falling  barometer  and  rising  temperature,  are  almost  invariably 
preceded  by  an  unusual  clearness  of  the  air;  cirrus  clouds  are  seen  southwestward,  which  grad- 

*A  strong  northeasterly  current  setting  on  the  Yukon  flats  has  been  observed,  amounting  at  times  to  2}j  miles. 


B8  BEBINQ  SEA.  , 

ually  thicken  and  overspread  the  sky.  The  wind  usually  shifts  to  southwestward  when  the 
barometer  ceases  to  fall,  but  it  sometimes  backs  from  southeast  to  northeast,  and  generally  goes 
to  northwest  before  subsiding.  Upon  abating,  the  gale  is  followed  by  light  westerly  winds 
and  comparatively  clear  weather. 

BRISTOL  BAY.* 

Bristol  Bay  may  be  said  to  include  all  that  part  of  Bering  Sea  lying  east  of  a  line  drawn 
from  Cape  Sarichef,  Unimak  Island,  to  the  Kuskokwim  River.  Unimak  Island  and  the  Alaska 
Peninsula  bound  it  on  the  south  and  east,  and  separate  it  from  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  Naknek 
River  is  at  the  head  of  deep-water  navigation,  while  the  bay  itself  terminates  in  the  Kvichak 
River,  a  few  miles  northward.  The  region  about  the  Nushagak  River,  Kulukak  Bay,  and 
the  Kuskokwim  forms  its  northwest  boundary. 

The  shores  are  usually  low  and  without  distinctive  features,  but  high  mountain  ranges 
and  volcanic  cones  extend  along  the  central  parts  of  Unimak  Island  and  the  Alaska  Peninsula. 
These  rugged  snow-covered  mountains  and  lofty  peaks  would  serve  as  unmistakable  land- 
marks were  they  not  obscured  by  the  almost  constant  fogs  which  prevail  in  that  region  during 
the  summer  months.  The  shore  and  objects  near  the  sea  level  are  often  seen  beneath  the 
fog  when  the  higher  lands  are  obscured,  and,  therefore,  most  of  the  available  landmarks  are 
found  on  or  near  the  beach. 

The  winds  and  weather  in  Bristol  Bay  and  the  other  parts  of  Bering  Sea  visited  by  the 
Albatross  from  the  last  of  May  to  the  1st  of  September,  1890,  may  be  summarized  in  a  few 
words. 

Southwest  winds  prevailed,  but  we  had  them  frequently  from  southeast  to  northwest. 
It  was  boisterous  weather  nearly  half  the  time,  but  seldom  rough  enough  to  interfere  with  our 
work.  We  had  several  summer  gales  of  moderate  force,  but  no  severe  storms.  Fog  and  mist 
prevailed,  and  a  clear  day  was  the  rare  exception.  The  tidal  currents  were  strongest  in  the 
vicinity  of  Unimak  Pass  and  at  the  head  of  the  bay;  they  were  greatly  affected,  however,  by 
the  winds.  The  flood  stream  sets  northward  and  slightly  inshore  along  the  coasts  of  Unimak 
Island  and  the  peninsula,  the  ebb  southward  and  offshore.  The  former  was  invariably  the 
stronger,  and  probably  found  an  outlet  by  sweeping  past  Cape  Constantine  in  the  direction  of 
Cape  Newenham.  There  has  been  no  systematic  study  of  the  currents  of  Bering  Sea,  and  the 
almost  constant  fogs  prevent  the  navigator  from  adding  much  to  our  meager  knowledge  con- 
cerning them. 

Reports  have  been  received  which  indicate  an  easterly  set,  variable  in  velocity,  along  the 
northern  side  of  Alaska  Peninsula  and  in  Bristol  Bay. 

COAST  FROM   UNIMAK  PASS   TO  PORT  MOLLER. 

Cape  Sarichef,  Unimak  Island,  is  described  on  page  11;  it  is  low  with  detached  rocks  close 
inshore,  around  which  strong  tidal  currents  sweep.  The  land  falls  away  eastward  in  a  gentle 
curve,  forming  an  open  bay  about  4  miles  in  depth  between  the  cape  and  Cave  Point,  which 
lies  16  miles  from  the  former.  Cave  Point  is  a  vertical,  rocky  cUff,  about  150  feet  in  height, 
and  takes  its  name  from  a  cave  on  its  face,  inhabited  by  sea  birds,  wliich  in  summer  time 
hover  about  it  in  thousands,  making  it  conspicuous  in  clear  weather  by  their  numbers,  and  in 
fogs  by  their  constant  cries.  The  snow-clad  peak  of  Pogromni  Volcano,  rising'  to  an  altitude 
of  6,500  feet  above  the  sea,  forms  a  striking  background  to  the  low,  monotonous  coast. 

Passing  Cape  Mordvinof,  a  low,  bluff  point  about  8  miles  from  Cave  Point,  the  coast 
falls  away  slightly  for  6  miles,  when  it  turns  abruptly  eastward  for  5  miles,  and  then  takes  a 
northerly  direction,  forming  Urilia  Bay.  This  bay  is  open  northward,  but  affords  protection 
from  all  winds  from  southward  of  east  or  west.  The  approaches  are  clear,  and  the  water  shoals 
gradually  to  6  fathoms,  black  sand,  about  %  mile  from  shore. 

*  Prom  a  reconnoissance  by  Lieut.  CominaDder  Z.  L.  Tanner,  V.  8.  N.,  conrnianding  U.  S.  S.  Atbatroat,  In  18S0,  and  Commander  Jefferson  F. 
Uoser,  U.  S.  N.,  commanding  U.  S.  S.  Albatrou,  In  1900,  with  additions  bom  otbcr  sources. 


'    BRISTOL  BAT.  29 

From  Urilia  Bay  to  Isanotski  Strait  the  coast  trends  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  is  verj' 
low,  and  has  several  rocky  patches  extending  3^  to  1  mile  from  shore,  making  navigation  unsafe 
inside  the  12-fathom  line.  The  volcano  of  Shishaldin  rises  9,387  feet  about  midway  between 
the  above  points  and  7  or  8  miles  inland.  Isanotski  Strait  is  available  only  for  vessels  of  the 
smallest  class. 

From  the  strait  to  Cape  Glazenap,  about  19  miles,  the  coast  retains  the  same  general 
direction  and  is  very  low  until  reaching  the  latter  point,  which  is  oval  in  form,  about  150  feet 
in  height,  and  has  been  called  Round  Point. 

Izembek  Bay  covers  a  large  area  at  high  tide,  but  much  of  it  is  dry  at  low  water.  A 
small  vessel  may,  however,  find  a  secure  harbor  behind  the  cape.  The  channel  follows  close 
around  the  point,  and  has  a  depth  of  10  to  12  feet  on  the  bar. 

Amak  Island  is  of  volcanic  origin,  about  23^  miles  in  length,  13^  miles  in  width,  and 
1,682  feet  in  height.  It  lies  11  miles  northwest  from  Cape  Glazenap.  The  beaches  are  mostly 
huge  boulders  and  bluffs  30  to  150  feet  high.  The  central  peak  is  a  dark-brown  rock,  bare, 
rugged,  and  precipitous.  The  southeast  point  is  in  latitude  55°  25'  05.6"  N.  and  longitude  163° 
07'  33.6"  W.  There  is  foul  ground  off  the  northwest  end  of  the  island,  several  rocks  awash  or 
under  water,  and  Sealiou  Rock  between  2  and  3  miles  distant.  The  latter  is  several  hundred 
yards  in  extent  and  about  150  feet  high,  its  slopes  being  occupied  by  an  extensive  rookery  of 
sea  lions.  A  reef  about  34  mile  long  lies  off  the  southeast  end  of  Amak  Island;  about  250  yards 
of  this  reef  shows  bare.  Lieut.  S.  P.  Edmonds,  R.  C.  S.,  reports  that  a  fair  lee  and  anchorage 
with  hard  bottom  can  be  found  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  island,  and  one  not  so  good  on  the 
southwest  side,  but  the  foul  south  point  of  the  island  must  be  given  a  wide  berth. 

The  Kudiakof  Islands  extend  about  19  miles  between  Cape  Glazenap  and  Moffet  Point. 
They  are  but  little  above  high  water,  and  some  of  them  are  connected  by  narrow  spits  at  low 
water. 

From  Moffet  Point  the  low  coast  extends  15  miles  to  Gerstle  Bay,  then  northward  and 
eastward  about  55  miles  to  Wolf  Point,  on  the  western  side  of  the  entrance  to  Port  Moller. 

The  Kudobin  Islands  occupy  the  last  23  miles  of  this  distance.  They  are  very  low, 
and  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish  them  from  the  mainland,  the  only  distinctive  feature  being  a 
knob  about  25  feet  high  on  the  east  end  of  Kritskoi.  The  land  between  Herendeen  Bay  and 
Nelson  Lagoon  is  very  low. 

PORT   MOLLER  AND   HERENDEEN  BAY. 

Port  Moller  and  Herendeen  Bay  were  partially  surveyed  by  the  Albatross  in  1890,  but 
the  chart  should  be  used  with  caution  until  it  is  ascertained  whether  the  extensive  banks 
guarding  the  entrance  are  permanent  or  shifting. 

To  enter  Port  Moller  from  southward,  pass  Walrus  Island  in  from  10  to  12  fathoms,  and 
bring  Entrance  Point,  the  eastern  point  at  the  entrance  to  Point  Moller,  to  bear  132°  true 
(BSE.  mag.).  It  will  then  be  about  8  miles  distant,  and  have  the  appearance  of  being  the 
southern  extremity  of  a  high  and  bold  headland,  the  first  that  approaches  the  coast  between 
that  point  and  Cape  Glazenap.  Stand  in,  keeping  the  point  on  the  above  bearing  until  within 
2  or  3  miles,  when  it  will  show  as  a  low  spit  backed  by  a  cluster  of  hillocks,  the  high  land  before 
referred  to  being  seen  farther  inland.  Pass  Entrance  Point  at  a  distance  of  1  mile,  steering 
about  173°  true  (SSE.  %  E.  mag.),  and  stand  for  Harbor  Point,  43^  miles  from  Entrance 
Point,  passing  it  within  %  mile,  where  anchorage  may  be  found.     The  point  is  low. 

A  shoal  makes  off  from  Entrance  Point  about  346°  true  (iVW.  by  N.  mag.)  between  3 
and  4  miles,  and  vessels  making  for  the  harbor  from,  northward  are  liable  to  run  in  behind  it . 
Entrance  Point  should  not  be  brought  to  bear  southward  of  155°  true  {SE.  mag.)  after  having 
approached  within  4  miles  of  it. 

To  enter  Herendeen  Bay,  bring  Entrance  Point  to  bear  70°  true  {NE.  Yi  E.  mag.),  1  mile 
distant,  and  Point  Divide,  228°  true  (SSW.  )4.  W.  mag.),  8^  miles  distant;  then  steer  for 
the  latter,  keef)ing  it  on  that  bearing  until  23^  miles  from  it,  when  the  course  may  be  changed 


80  POET  MOLLEB  AND  HEBENDEEN   BAY. 

to  about  SSS*^  true  (SW.  %  S.  mag.),  passing  in  mid-channel  between  Point  Divide  and  Doe 
Point,  the  southeast  point  of  Deer  Island.  The  least  water  is  4  fathoms  at  the  entrance  to  the 
channel. 

Having  cleared  Hague  Channel,  bring  Coal  Bluff,  5  miles  southeastward  from  Point 
Divide,  to  bear  159°  true  (SE.  %  S.  mag.),  and  stand  for  it  until  Point  Divide  bears  4°  true 
(N.  by  W.  %  W.  mag.),  1)4  miles  distant  and  about  400  yards  open  of  Doe  Point;  then  steer 
170°  true  (SSE.  V^  B.  mag.),  until  Eagle  Rock,  1  mile  northward  from  Coal  Bluff,  is  abeam, 
keeping  the  above  points  a  little  open  to  clear  Halftide  Rock,  which  lies  %  mile  320°  true 
{NW.  by  W.  Ys  W.  mag.)  from  Eagle  Rock.  Then  steer  187°  true  (S.  by  E.  %  E.  mag.)  until 
Shingle  Point,  2  miles  southward  from  Coal  Bluff,  is  abeam,  when  a  course  may  be  laid  for 
Mine  Harbor,  giving  Bluff  Point  a  berth  of  i^  mile. 

Mine  Harbor  is  small  but  free  from  dangers,  except  Midway  Reef,  which  extends  % 
mile  from  its  eastern  shore  and  shows  at  half  tide.  Anchor  northwestward  of  Midway  Reef  in 
12  to  15  fathoms,  and  if  intending  to  reniain  any  time  it  is  advisable  to  moor.  A  reef  extends 
600  yards  westward  from  Crow  Point,  the  south  point  of  Mine  Harbor.  Crow  Reef,  bare  at 
low  water,  lies  J^  mile  westward  of  Crow  Point  and  3^  mile  southward  of  Bluff  Point. 

Tides. — It  is  liigh  water  in  Mne  Harbor,  full  and  change,  at  8h.  Om.,  rise  15  feet,  and  it 
occurs  at  Entrance  Point  about  2  hours  earlier,  with  a  rise  of  10  to  12  feet. 

Hague  Channel  is  1  mile  in  width  at  its  northern  entrance,  and  is  contracted  to  less  than 
)^  mile  between  Point  Divide  and  Doe  Point.  The  tidal  currents  are  very  strong,  and  near 
high  water  they  sweep  across  the  narrow  channel  and  over  the  fiats,  making  it  impossible  to 
steer  a  compass  course.  They  are 'more  regular  near  low  tide,  which  is  the  best  time  to  make 
the  passage,  as  the  channel  is  indicated  by  the  flats  showing  above  water  on  either  hand. 

Johnston  Channel,  Herendeen  Bay,  has  7  to  15  fathoms,  but  is  very  narrow  with  steep 
sides.  It  is  difficult  to  find,  but  once  in,  the  navigation  is  comparatively  simple,  as  the  tidal 
currents  follow  the  general  direction  of  deep  water.  The  Avidth  of  the  channel  at  the  northern 
entrance,  %  mile  south  of  Point  Divide,  is  3^  mile,  with  little  variation  until  near  the  southern 
extremity,  where  it  contracts  to  250  yards.  Having  cleared  the  channel  and  entered  the  upper 
bay,  there  is  ample  room  and  depth  of  water  in  every  direction,  Crow  Reef,  off  the  south  point 
of  Mine  Harbor,  being  the  only  outlying  danger. 

Anchorages  may  be  found  anywhere  between  Walrus  Island  and  Entrance  Point  in  case 
of  fog,  and  a  vessel  may  anchor  in  Hague  Channel,  but  the  tidal  currents  are  strong.  There 
are  fairly  good  anchorages  under  the  north  side  of  Point  Divide  and  Doe  Point,  where,  near 
the  bank,  a  vessel  will  be  out  of  the  strength  of  the  current.  The  Albatross  anchored  in  mid- 
channel,  1  mile  inside  of  the  above  points,  at  the  time  of  spring  tides,  and  the  flood  came  in 
with  a  bore  between  2  and  3  feet  in  height,  the  patent  log  registering  a  9-knot  current  for  some 
time,  with  a  swell  which  occasionally  splashed  into  the  scuppers.  There  is  a  fair  anchorage 
off  the  northern  entrance  to  Johnston  Channel,  and  an  excellent  one  at  its  southern  extremity, 
off  Marble  Point,  just  north  of  Sliingle  Point,  or,  in  fact,  almost  anywhere  in  the  upper  bay. 
The  last  quarter  of  the  flood  tide  is  the  best  time  to  pass  through  this  channel. 

High  land  rises  at  the  base  of  Harbor  Point,  and  extends  northward  and  eastward  near  the 
middle  of  the  peninsula.  Point  Divide  is  50  feet  in  height,  and  mountain  ranges  rise  a  few 
miles  back.  The  coal  measures  are  found  between  Mine  Harbor  and  the  head  of  Port  Moller. 
Doe  Point  is  40  feet  in  height,  wlule  the  rest  of  Deer  Island  and  the  mainland  south  and  west 
of  it  is  generally  lower.  The  southern  shores  of  Herendeen  Bay  are  mountainous,  with  inter- 
vening valleys,  the  whole  face  of  the  country  being  covered  with  rank  grass  and  wild  flowers 
during  the  summer  months;  but  there  is  no  timber,  except  occasional  small  poplars,  alder 
bushes,  and  willows.  Fresh  winds,  with  fog  and  mist,  blow  across  the  low  divides  from  the 
Pacific,  obscuring  the  sun  and  greatly  increasing  the  rainfall  in  Port  Moller  and  vicinity. 

There  are  no  large  fresh-water  streams  entering  the  bay,  which  probably  accounts  for 
the  absence  of  Eskimos. 


BRISTOL.   BAY.  81 

COAST  FROM  PORT   MOLLER  TO   KUSKOKWIM   RIVER. 

The  coast  is  low  for  19  miles  between  Entrance  Point  and  Cape  Kutuzof,  which  rises 
in  a  rounded  bluff  to  an  elevation  of  150  feet. 

Cape  Seniavin,  11  miles  northward  and  eastward,  is  a  rocky  point  75  feet  high.  Passing 
it,  the  low,  monotonous  beach  continues  to  the  Seal  Islands,  the  only  exception  being  a  cluster 
of  small  hillocks  near  the  beach,  12  miles  from  Cape  Seniavin. 

The  Seal  Islands  are  several  small  islets,  but  little  above  high  water,  strung  along  near 
the  coast  for  about  10  miles;  thence  to  Strogonof  Point  the  land  continues  very  low. 

Port  Heiden  is  said  to  be  a  good  harbor,  but  it  was  not  examined.  The  approach  to 
the  port  will  be  recognized  by  high,  bold  headlajids,  which  rise  from  its  northern  shore.  Chisti- 
akof  Island,  low  and  crescent-shaped,  forms  the  seaward  side  of  the  harbor,  the  channel 
lying  between  its  northern  extremity  and  a  reef  which  makes  westward  about  3  miles  from 
the  land  about  2  miles  northward  from  the  island.  An  extensive  reef  is  also  reported  to 
extend  about  1}4  miles  off  the  northwest  side  of  Chistiakof  Island.  It  is  reported  that  there  is 
a  rise  and  fall  of  18  feet  on  the  largest  spring  tides,  and  about  12  to  14  feet  on  ordinary  tides. 

Until  a  proper  survey  of  the  Bristol  Bay  region  has  been  made  it  must  be  regarded  by 
mariners  as  a  dangerous  locality  to  navigate;  it  is  only  by  the  greatest  vigilance  and  constant 
use  of  the  lead  that  disaster  can  be  avoided  upon  approaching  the  land.  This  is  particularly 
true  of  the  northeast  arms  and  approaches  which  receive  the  waters  of  the  great  salmon 
streams  on  which  all  the  Bering  Sea  canneries  are  located. 

These  rivers  are  the  Igusliik,  Wood,  and  Nushagak,  emptying  into  Nushagak  Bay;  the 
Kvichak,  Alagnak,  Naknek,  and  Ugagulv,  which  empty  into  Kvichak  Bay;  and  the  Ugashik, 
next  southward  of  the  Ugaguk.  These  rivers  are  large  and  discharge  a  great  quantity  of 
water  into  wide  indentations,  locally  still  retaining  the  name  of  rivers,  which  open  on  the  arms 
of  the  great  bay.  The  banks  of  the  rivers  are  frequently  marshy,  generally  muddy,  and  the 
discolored  water  is  charged  with  a  large  amount  of  sediment  which  is  deposited,  forming  the 
dangers  to  be  encountered. 

On  account  of  the  funnel-shaped  configuration  of  the  bays  and  river  entrances,  the  tidal 
currents  run  with  great  force,  having  a  velocity  at  times  of  at  least  6  miles,  and  the  tides  have 
a  rise  and  fall  of  18  to  24  feet;  vast  areas  of  shoals  are  uncovered  at  low  water,  leaving  only 
pools  and  shallows,  and  generally  narrow  channels  between.  Navigation  in  the  arms  and 
approaches  is  only  successfully  accomplished  at  or  near  high  water,  even  by  those  thoroughly 
acquainted  with  the  channels. 

From  Port  Heiden  the  same  low  coast  extends  to  Cape  Menshikof  in  nearly  a  direct  line, 
the  highland  of  Port  Heiden  gradually  receding  from  the  coast.  A  shoal  inlet  or  river  entrance 
lies  about  10  miles  southward  of  Cape  Menshikof.  It  has  sometimes  been  mistaken  for  the 
Ugashik  River.  Cape  Menshikof  is  a  high  bluff,  extending  some  distance  along  shore,  with 
hilly  country  back  of  it. 

Ugashik  River  is  large  and  empties  into  the  wdde  indentation  between  capes  Menshikof 
and  Greig,  the  distance  between  the  capes  being  about  15  miles.  The  capes  can  be  approached 
from  westward  as  close  as  about  2  miles.  The  coast  between  the  capes  including  the  river 
valley  appears  low.  Sm6ky  Point,  a  bluff  on  the  north  side  at  the  entrance,  is  about  7  miles 
southward  of  Cape  Greig.  Here  the  river  is  about  4  miles  wide  at  high  water.  The  indentation 
between  the  capes,  and  the  mouth  of  the  river  are  filled  with  shoals.  There  is  a  channel  with 
about  10  feet  at  low  water,  which  is  buoyed  during  the  season  for  the  use  of  the  cannery  vessels, 
but  a  stranger  could  not  follow  it  with  safety. 

There  is  communication  by  telephone  among  some  of  the  canneries  at  the  head  of  Bristol 
Bay  from  Ugashik  River  to  Nushagak  River. 

Cape  Greig  is  a  prominent,  brownish  bluff,  with  a  few  yellow  vertical  stripes,  243  feet 
high,  extending  several  miles  along  shore.  It  appears  to  be  the  seaward  end  of  a  low  ridge 
with  low  land  on  each  side.     This  and  a  peculiar -notched  mountain  some  distance  inland. 


89  BEISTOL  BAY. 

are  good  marks.  The  low  coast  continues  from  the  cap^  to  the  Ugaguk  River,  and  thence  to 
the  Naknek  River,  with  hardly  a  distinguishing  feature,  except  Johnston  Hill,  a  solitary 
elevation,  5  miles  from  the  beach  and  about  9  miles  southward  from  the  mouth  of  the  Naknek. 

Ugaguk  River  empties  into  the  outer  limit  of  Kvichak  Bay  about  30  miles  north  of  Cape 
Greig,  and  has  Cape  Chicagof  for  its  northern  entrance  point.  It  is  a  large  river,  about  2  miles 
in  width  at  the  cannery,  and  is  the  outlet  of  Lake  Becharof.  It  flows  in  a  general  westerlj' 
direction  for  about  50  miles.  Tide  water  is  said  to  extend  about  2.5  miles  up  the  river;  very 
little  is  known  of  the  locality. 

The  lower  part  of  the  river  is  a  wide  bay,  contracted  at  the  mouth,  and,  like  other  rivers 
of  this  district,  at  low  water  a  large  part  of  the  bed  is  exposed  in  shoals  and  banks  with  narrow 
channels  winding  through  them.  At  the  entrance  shoal  water  extends  several  miles  offshore, 
and  the  small  cannery  steamers  enter  only  from  half  to  full  tide.  The  channel  into  this  river 
is  wider  and  deeper  than  in  Naknek  and  Kvichak,  and,  if  it  were  properly  buoyed,  vessels  of 
moderate  draft  could  enter  at  high  water,  but  there  is  no  swinging  room  inside.  The  cannery 
transporting  vessel,  a  bark  of  554  tons,  was  carried  in  at  high  water  and  moored  head  and  stem 
alongside  the  low- water  bank. 

Naknek  River  may  be  considered  as  the  head  of  deep-water  navigation  in  Bristol  Bay. 
It  enters  Kvichak  Bay  on  the  eastern  side,  about  25  miles  southward  of  Kogiung.  The  river 
has  its  source  in  the  large  lake  of  the  same  name  as  the  river,  on  which  two  villages  are  located. 
The  river  is  large  and  about  60  miles  in  length. 

It  is  said  that  tide  water  extends  about  25  miles  from  the  mouth,  where  the  river  is  about 
}/^  mile  in  width,  and  that  at  the  -mouth  the  extreme  rise  and  fall  of  spring  tides  is  over  20  feet. 

Shoals  and  banks,  many  of  which  uncover  at  low  water,  fill  the  lower  course  of  the  river 
and  extend  3  or  4  miles  off  the  mouth,  then  trend  around  northward  and  join  the  body  of.  the 
banks  that  fill  the  upper  end  of  Kvichak  Bay.  At  low  water  the  channel  between  the  banks 
and  flats  is  very  shallow;  cannery  steamers,  drawing  but  7  feet  of  water,  await  half  tide  before 
entering.  Navigation  is  done  on  the  rising  tide  or  at  high  water.  High  water,  full  and  change, 
Ih.  5m.;  rise  23  feet. 

The  mouth  of  the  river  is  about  3  miles  wide  between  the  headlands,  which  are  bluffs  about 
100  feet  high;  within  the  entrance  the  banks  converge  quite  rapidly,  and  aboxit  4  miles  from 
the  mouth  the  river  is  about  %  mile  wide. 

The  Albatross  anchored  in  6  fathoms  about  6  miles  247°  tnie  {S  W.  mag.)  from  (lape 
Suworof,  the  water  shoaling  rapidly  to  3  fathoms  toward  the  mouth  of  the  Kvichak  River. 
»«)  Kvichak  Bay. — The  large  arm  at  the  head  of  Bristol  Bay,  extending  northeast  and 
bounded  on  the  south  by  a  line  from  the  south  entrance  point  of  Ugaguk  River  to  Etolin  Point, 
has  been  designated  as  Kvichak  Bay.  The  upper  part  of  the  bay  is  very  shoal,  and,  as  the  current 
is  strong,  it  can  be  safely  navigated  only  by  small  vessels  built  to  resist  the  shock  of  repeated 
grounding.  It  is  said  that  the  banks  from  the  Etolin  side  project  halfway  across  the  bay,  and, 
with  those  from  the  peninsula  side,  confine  the  channel  to  a  comparatively  narrow  limit;  a 
seagoing  vessel,  however,  under  skillful  guidance  and  with  local  knowledge,  may  reach  a  point 
a  few  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Naknek  River,  which  is  about  30  miles  below  the  head  of  the 
bay;  but  some  cannery  men  consider  the  risk  too  great  to  carry  their  transport  vessels  to  this 
point  and  leave  them  there  for  the  season. 

Above  the  mouth  of  the  Naknek  River  the  shoals  begin  to  extend  across  the  channel, 
and,  as  a  point  higher  up  is  reached,  the  whole  bay  at  low  water  is  filled  with  uncovered  banks, 
having  shallow,  narrow  channels  winding  through  them. 

At  the  head  of  the  bay  is  the  mouth  of  the  Kvichak  River,  which  is  the  outlet  to  the  great 

lakes,  Iliamna  and  Clark,  lying  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountain  system  bordering  Cook 

Inlet. 

NUSHAGAK  RIVER 

is  important  as  the  location  of  a  trading  station  and  of  a  number  of  large  canneries.  Owing 
to  swift  currents  and  extensive  shoals,  it  may  be  classed  among  the  most  intricate  pieces  of 
navigation  in  Bristol  Bay.     A  6-knot  current  is  frequently  encountered,  hence  the  shifting  of 


NUSHAGAK  BIVEB.  88 

banks  and  shoals  must  be  expected,  and  the  necessity  for  the  constant  use  of  the  hand  lead 
becomes  too  obvious  to  require  remark;  indeed  the  warning  from  a  lead  on  each  side  will  leave 
but  a  small  margin  of  safety  at  times. 

From  a  point  about  3  miles  westward  of  Cape.Greig  the  Albatross  kept  along  the  coast  at  a 
distance  of  6  or  8  miles  for  25  miles,  and  then  steered  a  course  to  clear  the  shoals  off  Cape 
Constantine.  Acorn  Peak  was  made  and  mistaken  for  Nichols  Hills,  and,  before  the  latter 
were  made  out,  the  vessel  was  inside  the  shoals  as  indicated  on  Coast  Survey  chart  8800,  and 
Cape  Constantine  was  in  sight  from  aloft.  After  bringing  Nichols  Hills  on  a  bearing  314°  true 
(WNW.  mag.)  the  course  was  laid  for  them  and  an  anchorage  made  in  8  fathoms  at  low  water, 
with  Point  Protection  bearing  224°  true  (SSW.  mag.),  distant  23^  miles.  This  anchorage  is 
not  considered  a  good  one  and,  according  to  the  cannery  people,  should  not  be  selected.  This 
will  be  referred  to  later. 

It  has  been  advised  that  a  vessel  bound  for  the  Nushagak  [should  make  Cape  Greig,  which  is 
high  and  easily  recognized,  and,  from  this  position,  take  her  departure  and  shape  the  course 
for  the  entrance,  favoring  the  Etolin  side  in  preference  to  the  Cape  Constantine  side,  and  using 
the  lead  constantly  in  approaching  these  shoals.  A  vessel  should  arrive  in  the  entrance  to  the 
bay  midway  between  Point  Protection  and  Point  Etolin,  and,  from  this  position,  a  course  337° 
true  (NW.  mag.)  for  a  distance  of  5  miles  will  carry  outside  the  lower  bar,  where  a  stranger 
must  anchor  and  communicate  for  a  pilot.  Judgment  must  be  used  in  making  allowance  for 
tidal  currents,  and,  it  is  needless  to  say,  the  right  arm  of  the  navigator  in  these  regions  is  the 
lead. 

l,jJ*jThe  following  notes  made  on  leaving  the  Nushagak  may  be  of  service:  A  vessel  bound 
out  should  leave  the  upper  anchorage  two  hours  before  high  water,  so  as  to  have  the  best  water 
on  the  bars.  The  Albatross  left  the  anchorage  at  the  upper  cannery  at  high  water,  and  fol- 
lowed the  western  shore  at  a  distance  of  300  to  400  yards  to  the  lower  cannery  on  the  same 
side  (Bristol  Bay  Cannery  Company).  After  rounding  the  point  below  this  cannery,  the  dis- 
tance from  shore  was  increased  to  avoid  a  spit  making  out  from  the  first  valley  beyond  the  point, 
on  which  the  bark  Wildwood  was  lost.  Having  passed  the  spit,  the  western  shore  was  kept 
well  on  board,  making  allowance  for  the  beach  that  uncovers  at  low  water.  A  short  distance 
above  Coffee  Point  the  Albatross  laid  a  course  173°  true  (SSE.  %  B.  mag.)  for  2.3  miles,  then 
151°  true  (SB.  J^  B.  mag.)  for  1.1  miles,  which  carried  over  what  is  known  as  "the  crosa- 
over"  and  to  Clark  Point.  The  eastern  shore  was  then  followed  at  a  distance  of  34  to  J^  mile, 
and  on  arriving  off  Ekuk  she  hauled  sharp  across  the  river  bar  on  a  course  247°  true  (SW.  mag.), 
wliich  course  was  kept  until  the  cannery  at  Clark  Point  came  on  with  the  second  depression  in 
the  distant  blue  ridge  northward,  and  the  right  tangent  of  the  ridge  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Igushik  River  came  on  with  the  left  tangent  of  the  first  high  mountain  of  the  ridge  beyond 
the  lowland.  The  course  was  then  changed  to  163°  true  (SB.  3^  S.  mag.),  and  after  running 
about  33^  miles  the  outer  bar  was  crossed. 

The  Albatross  made  the  shoal  water  of  the  outer  bar  on  the  following  bearings:  Clark 
Point,  11°  true  (N.  hjW.  mag.);  Nichols  Hills,  213°  true  (S.  hjW.  mag.);  right  tangent  bluff 
south  of  the  Igushik  River,  299°  true  {W.  ^  N.  mag.).  From  the  outer  bar  the  camiery  vessels 
are  said  to  steer  168°  true  (SB.  by  S.  mag.)  to  sea.  The  Albatross,  with  an  ebb  tide,  steered 
157°  true  (SE.  mag.)  until  clear  of  all  shoals  and  then  laid  her  sea  course. 

Nichols  Hills,  as  indicated  on  Coast  Survey  chart  8800  and  others,  is  very  misleading. 
There  are  no  high,  isolated  liills  in  the  vicinity;  a  line  of  high  bluffs  from  Igushik  River  border 
tliis  shore  to  the  southward,  fringed  by  a  narrow  belt  of  marsh,  and,  about  4  miles  northwest 
from  Point  Protection,  these  bluffs  are  broken  on  top  into  mounds  which  are  the  Nichols  Hills, 
locally  known  as  the  Knolls. 

Under  average  conditions  they  do  not  form  a  leading  mark,  as  stated,  for  guidance  from 
seaward,  as  they  rise  but  little  above  the  bluff  line,  and  it  is  not  believed  they  can  be  made  out 
by  a  stranger  in  time  to  avoid  the  dangers  off  Cape  Constantine. 

About  2  miles  northwest  from  Point  Protection  the  bluffs  referred  to  break  away  west- 
ward, and  are  lost  on  approaching  the  beach  2  miles  south  from  the  same  point.     Point  Pro- 
60835—09 3 


84  BEISTOL   BAY. 

tection  andits  vicinity  for  sereral  miles  is  low  and  marshy,  with  an  occasional  low  mound 
andihillock. 

The  coast  between  Cape  Constantine  and  Point  Protection  is  generally  low,  and  the  interior 
is  rolling,  broken  into  high  mounds,  ponds,  and  marshes. 

Very  little  is  known  of  the  extent  of  the  shoals  off  Cape  Constantine;  itjsjprobable  that 
the  bottom  is  much  broken  and  lumpy  off  the  whole  entrance  to  the  bay.  The  Albatross, 
two  hours  before  low  water,  had  several  soundings  of  5  fathoms  well  outside  of  the  bay  in  what 
is  considered  to  be  the  best  water. 

The  A.  P.  A.  cannery  ship  Sterling,  with  the  spring  outfit  for  Kogiung  on  board,  was  lost 
on  the  shoals  about  5  miles  southward  of  Cape  Constantine.  At  the  point  where  the  vessel 
struck,  Cape  Constantine  and  Point  Protection  are  in  line. 

At  Point  Etolin,  there  is  a  line  of  low  bluffs  which,  at  three  points,  show  a  bald,  yellowish 
face,  the  highest  to  the  westward.  The  land  in  this  vicinity  is  generally  low.  It  is  said  the 
shoal  off  Point  Etolin  does  not  extend  as  far  offshore  as  indicated  on  Coast  Survey  chart  8800. 

The  cannery  tenders,  in  running  from  the  Nushagak  to  the  Kvichak,  usually  round  Point 
Etolin  by  the  lead,  keeping  in  3  or  4  fathoms  of  water,  which  they  expect  to  find  about  4  miles 
from  the  shore. 

Clark  Point  is  18  miles  above  Point  Protection,  the  usual  anchorage  being  }/2  mile  to  1 
mile  above  it.     High  water,  full  and  change,  Oh.  53m. ;  approximate  rise,  24  feet. 

Ekuk,  an  Eskimo  village,  is  on  the  bluff,  nearly  3  miles  below  Clark  Point. 

Clark  Point  is  a  bluff  200  feet  in  height,  begimiing  below  Ekuk  and  extending  2  or  3  miles 
up  the  river,  and  thence  to  Nushagak.  It  varies  from  100  to  150  feet  in  height.  The  west 
side  of  the  river  is  generally  lower,  but  from  Coffee  Point,  4  miles  northwest  from  Clark  Point, 
northward  the  bluffs  rise  from  50  to  200  feet. 

Cape  Constantine,  the  southern  extremity  of  land  at  the  entrance  to  the  Nushagak, 
is  very  low,  and  shoals  extend  10  or  12  miles  southward  and  eastward,  making  its  approach  in 
thick  weather  very  dangerous.  There  is  said  to  be  a  channel  between  the  cape  and  the  fii'st 
shoal,  but  the  report  requires  verification.  The  coast  increases  in  height  westward  of  the  cape, 
the  headlands  in  Kulukak  and  Togiak  bays  reaching  an  altitude  of  500  feet  or  more. 

The  Walrus  Islands  are  three  islands  and  three  rocks,  all  above  water,  extending  16 
miles  east  and  west  and  about  6  miles  north  and  south. 

Round  Island,  the  easternmost  of  the  group,  is  nearly  2  miles  long,  ^  mile  wide,  and  about 
800  feet  high,  its  west  end  being  in  latitude  58°  36'  09"  N.,  longitude  159°  57'  51.7"  W. 

Crooked  Island  is  between  4  and  5  miles  in  length  and  2  miles  in  greatest  width.  The 
eastern  part  is  rather  low,  but  toward  the  western  extremity  the  elevation  is  nearly  equal  to 
that  of  Round  Island.  There  is  quite  a  large  bay  on  the  northeast  side,  but  it  was  not 
examined. 

High  Island,  the  westernmost  of  the  group,  is  4  miles  in  length,  about  1  mile  in  width, 
and  900  feet  or  more  in  height. 

The  Twins  are  two  isolated  rocks  4  miles  southward  of  Crooked  Island,  the  larger  300 
and  the  smaller  100  feet  in  height. 

Black  Hock,  about  150  feet  high,  lies  1  mile  northward  of  the  south  end  of  Crooked 
Island. 

No  other  outlying  dangers  were  seen  in  passing  between  the  islands  and  the  mainland. 
From  6  to  10  fathoms  were  found  abreast  the  group,  the  depth  gradually  decreasing  to  3  fathoms 
off  the  north  end  of  Hagemeister  Island.  The  course  was  near  the  shore,  however,  and  more 
water  would  doubtless  have  been  found  in  mid-channel. 

Hagemeister  Island  lies  9  miles  west  of  High  Island,  and  is  14  miles  in  length  and  8 
in  width.  It  is  mountainous  except  for  about  5  miles  at  the  north  end.  Shoals  surround  the 
island  and  extend  eastward  20  to  25  miles,  including  the  area  between  Hagemeister  and  the 
Walrus  Group. 

Hagemeister  Strait  is  about  16  miles  in  length  and  lies  between  the  island  of  that  name 
find  the  mainland.     It  is  3  to  4  miles  wide,  but  shingle  spits  contract  it  in  two  places  to  less 


BBISTOL  BAY.  86 

than  2  miles.  The  least  water  was  43^  fathoms.  Good  anchorage  was  found  under  Tongue 
Point,  the  shingle  spit  making  out  from  the  mainland  about  midway  of  the  channel.  From 
the  above  anchorage  the  Albatross  stood  directly  to  sea,  passing  within  a  mile  of  the  south- 
western extremity  of  Hagemeister  Island;  thence  206°  true  (S.  3^  W.  mag.),  shoaling  the  water 
to  3  fathoms  7  miles  from  the  island.  Greater  depths  might  possibly  be  found  by  taking  a 
more  westerly  course.  It  is  reported  that  there  is  anchorage  under  the  spits  at  both  ends  of 
Hageineister  Island.  The  tidal  currents  are  very  strong  through  the  channel.  The  vessel  was 
visited  by  a  number  of  Eskimos  while  at  anchor  under  Tongue  Point. 

Cape  Peirce  is  of  moderate  height  and  symmetrical  form.  Depths  of  10  fathoms  are 
found  2  miles  southward  of  the  cape,  and  good  anchorage  in  10  fathoms  of  water  is  found  inside 
Shaiak  Islet  Oying  just  eastward  of  the  cape)-. 

Cape  Newenham  is  a  high,  bold,  headland,  with  sharp  peaks  and  rugged  lines.  In 
1899  the  U.  S.  S.  Corwin  passed  within  2  miles  westward  of  Cape  Newenham  and  carried  4 
to  5  fathoms  of  water.  While  following  the  land  at  a  distance  of  2  miles,  and  keeping  out  of 
the  indentations  between  Cape  Newenham  and  Goodnews  Bay,  the  depths  were  3H  to  4 
fathoms  until  within  2  miles  of  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  where  the  water  shoals  abruptly.  The 
Albatross  fovmd  anchorage  under  Cape  Newenham  near  Seal  Rock  during  a  southerly  gale, 
and  laid  it  out  very  comfortably,  notwithstanding  s\vift  currents  and  heavy  tide  rips. 

Chagvan  (Portage)  Bay,  lying  about  16  miles  northeastward  of  Cape  Newenham,  is 
a  good  anchorage  for  small  craft. 

Goodnews  Bay,  lying  about  26  miles  northward  of  Cape  Newenham,  has  shoals  extend- 
ing several  miles  off  the  entrance,  through  which  there  is  a  channel  with  depths  of  about  3  to 
4  fathoms  leading  into  the  entrance,  which  is  about  1  mile  wide.  The  bay  is  shallow  in  places, 
but  depths  of  3  to  8  fathoms  will  be  found  in  channels  between  the  shoals.  Baluka  Hill, 
a  high  and  conspicuous  liill  on  the  north  shore  of  Goodnews  Bay,  inside  the  entrance,  is  a  useful 
landmark  for  entering.  Giving  Cape  Newenham  a  berth  of  3  to  4  miles,  head  up  for  Baluka 
Hill,  about  31°  true  (iV.  by  E.  mag.),  which  should  lead  to  the  entrance  of  the  channel  through 
the  shoal  off  the  entrance  to  Goodnews  Bay,  and  should  carry  a  least  depth  of  about  3  fathoms. 

Carter  is  a  settlement  on  an  open  bay  about  55  miles  northward  of  Cape  Newenham; 
a  depth  of  about  2  fathoms  can  be  taken  aroimd  the  northern  end  of  a  grassy  island  to  abreast 
the  settlement. 

Cripple  Creek  empties  into  a  broad,  open  bight  about  12  miles  northward  of  Carter. 

The  Kuskokwim  River  is  much  dreaded  by  navigators  on  account  of  its  extensive  shoals, 
strong  currents,  etc.  The  Albatross  ascended  it  between  35  and  40  miles  without  difficulty 
or  delay,  but  encountered  extensive  shoals  on  her  return.  Thick  weather  and  the  lack  of 
time  prevented  an  extended  examination.  The  shoals  commenced  about  9  miles  268°  true 
( WS  W.  mag.)  from  Goodnews  Bay  and  extended  in  a  westerly  direction  for  10  miles  or  more. 
There  is  a  channel  between  the  shoal  and  the  land  about  4  miles  wide,  having  a  depth  of  5 
fathoms.  From  a  point  5  miles  268°  true  ( WS  W.  mag.)  from  the  west  head  of  Goodnews  Bay 
we  stood  directly  for  Cape  Newenham,  the  least  depth  being  4  fathoms.  Great  quantities  of 
fresh  water  are  borne  down  the  Kuskokwim  by  the  rapid  currents,  and,  while  there  have 
been  no  surveys  by  which  changes  can  be  noted,  there  seems  no  reasonable  doubt  that  great 
alterations  have  taken  place  since  Cook  ascended  the  river  in  the  last  century. 

PRIBILOF  ISLANDS. 

This  group  consists  of  St.  Paul,  St.  George,  Otter,  and  Walrus  islands.  The  two  latter 
are  small  and  uninhabited.  St.  Paul  and  St.  George  are  important  as  containing  the  largest 
and  most  numerous  seal  rookeries  of  the  world.  These  two  islands  are  each  in  charge  of  a 
United  States  Government  agent,  and  are  at  present  under  lease  to  the  North  American  Com- 
mercial Company.  Excepting  vessels  of  the  United  States  Government  and  those  in  the  employ 
of  the  company,  all  vessels  are  forbidden  landing  on  these  islands.  There  are  no  harbors  about 
the  islands,  and  the  anchorages  are  only  available  with  the  wind  off  the  land.     Because  of 


8f|  PBIBILOP  ISLANDS. 

the  uncertain  and  shifting  nature  of  the  wind  in  this  locality,  vessels  should  always  anchor 
with  a  view  of  getting  under  way  quickly  if  necessary. 

Fogs  are  especially  thick  and  prevalent  in  this  vicinity  in  the  summer,  and  navigation 
is  attended  with  difficulty  and  danger. 

These  islands  are  at  about  the  southern  limit  of  the  ice  in  Bering  Sea.  Detached  fields 
of  ice  will  generally  be  found  in  their  vicinity  from  February  to  May. 

ST.   GEORGE  ISLAND 

consists  mainly  of  high  volcanic  lulls  and  ridges,  and  its  entire  coast  is  a  precipitous  cliff  except 
for  a  few  miles  on  the  north  side  and  short  intervals  at  Garden  Cove  and  Zapadni  Bay.  The 
east  and  west  extremities  of  the  island,  Tolstoi  and  Dalnoi  points,  are  bold  promontories. 

High  Bluff,  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  1,012  feet  liigh,  is  a  prominent  landmark,  and 
is  visible  from  St.  Paul  Island,  a  distance  of  nearly  40  miles,  on  a  clear  day.  There  are 
no  harbors,  but  vessels  anchor  at  North  Anchorage,  Garden  Cove,  and  Zapadni  Bay,  accord- 
ing to  the  direction  of  the  wind;  the  anchorages  are  poor  except  with  the  wind  directly  off  the 
land.  At  a  distance  generally  not  greater  than  2  miles  from  the  island  the  depth  of  the  water 
is  but  little  less  than  the  surrounding  sea,  and  in  thick  weather  it  is  not  safe  to  depend  upoQ 
soundings  for  picking  up  the  land  unless  sure  of  the  position.  Vessels  should  not  approach 
the  island  in  less  than  12  fathoms  of  water.  There  are  no  outlying  dangers  except  the  small 
reefs  at  Zapadni  Bay  and  at  North  Anchorage.  It  is  reported  that  vessels  have  found  breakers, 
in  very  heavy  weather,  about  9  miles  east  of  Tolstoi  Point. 

The  anchorage  in  Zapadni  Bay,  on  the  southwest  side  of  the  island,  in  10  fathoms  of 
water,  affords  shelter  with  winds  from  east-northeast  to  north-northwest.  The  landing  is  on 
the  open  sand  beach,  and  can  usually  be  made  with  northerly  winds.  A  reef  extends  about 
3^  mile  offshore  southward  of  the  anchorage. 

With  northerly  winds,  a  landing  may  sometimes  be  made  at  Garden  Cove,  on  the  sand 
beach.  The  anchorage  affords  good  shelter  from  northwesterly  winds,  but  with  the  exception 
of  a  small  area  the  bottom  is  rocky. 

At  North  Anchorage  there  are  two  houses  on  the  beach,  with  a  road  back  of  them  leading 
up  the  hill  to  the  village.  In  approaching,  get  these  two  houses  open  and  steer  for  them. 
Anchor  in  not  less  than  10  fathoms.  A  flag  is  shown  from  the  flagstaff  when  landing  is  possible. 
The  landing  westward  of  thg  houses  is  a  cutting  in  the  rocks  for  small  boats  to  enter  at  high 
or  medium  tides.  It  is  somewhat  protected  by  a  ledge  of  rocks  north  of  it,  and  by  kelp,  which 
tends  to  reduce  the  breakers.  At  East  Landing,  just  northeast  of  the  village,  is  a  similar  boat 
landing,  but  better  protected  from  a  westerly  swell.  A  ledge  of  rocks  awash  lies  a  short 
distance  off  this  landing.  If  desired,  a  boat  will  come  out  to  vessels  at  anchor  when  landing 
is  practicable. 

Tidal  currents. — The  current  sets  eastward  during  the  rising  tide  and  westward  during 
the  falling  tide,  with  a  maximum  velocity  of  2  3^  miles.  With  opposing  wind  and  current, 
tide  rips  occur  off  Tolstoi  and  Dalnoi  points.  These  rips  are  not  heavy  enough  to  be  of  any 
moment,  except  that  to  strangers  they  may  appear  to  be  breakers.  The  water  off  both  points 
is  deep,  and  they  can  be  passed  close-to  with  safety. 

OTTER  ISLAND  i 

has  an  abrupt  bluff  at  its  southwest  end,  288  feet  high,  slopes  gradually  to  the  north  and  rises 
again  in  a  crater,  150  feet  high,  at  its  extreme  east  end.  Foul  ground,  marked  by  kelp,  extends 
about  %  mile  from  the  island  on  its  south,  southwest,  and  north  sides.  The  north  side,  from 
Crater  Point  to  Northwest  Reef,  is  clear  of  dangers.  Probably  the  best  anchorage  near  the 
island  is  in  93^  fathoms,  black  sand  and  broken  shells,  with  the  northeast  extremity  of  Crater 
Point  bearing  185°  true  {S.  by  E.  mag.),  distant  }/2  mile.  This  island  must  be  approached 
with  great  caution  in  thick  weather,  and  at  all  times  keep  out  of  kelp.  Between  Otter  Island 
and  Reef  Point,  St.  Paul  Island,  the  tidal  currents  are  strong,  and  with  heavy  winds  dangerous 
tide  rips  occur,  especially  on  the  ebb. 


PBIBILOP  ISLANDS.  87 

WALRUS  ISLAND 

is  low,  about  15  or  20  feet  above  the  water,  level  on  top,  and  composed  of  irregular  masses  of 
volcanic  rock.  It  is  about  %  mile  long  and  3^  mile  wide.  Anchorage  can  be  had  on  either 
side  of  it,  M  to  J^  mile  offshore,  in  10  to  15  fathoms.  Landing  can  be  made  with  smooth  water, 
the  best  place  for  this  purpose  being  in  a  small  cove  at  the  southwest  corner.  The  island  is  a 
bad  place  to  make  in  a  fog. 

Parts  of  Otter  and  Walrus  islands  are  covered  with 'sea  birds  in  the  breeding  season,  and 
at  the  proper  time  a  plentiful  supply  of  eggs  may  be  obtained. 

ST,   PAIJL  ISLAND. 

The  west  and  southwest  parts  of  St.  Paul  Island  are  high  and  mountainous,  with  precipi- 
tous cliffs  at  the  coast.  The  rest  of  the  island  is  a  comparatively  low,  rolling  plateau,  with 
a  number  of  extinct  volcanic  peaks  scattered  over  its  surface.  Bogoslof ,  590  feet  high,  a 
conical  crater  near  the  center  of  the  island,  and  Polovina,  a  double-peaked  hill,  470  feet  liigh, 
near  its  east  end,  are  conspicuous,  and  are  the  best  landmarks  in  clear  weather  when  coming 
from  southward.  From  this  hill  the  island  stretches  away  in  a  low,  narrow  neck  to  Hutchinson 
Hill,  100  feet  high,  on  Northeast  Point.  West  of  Lukanin  Bay  the  coast  of  the  south  side  of 
the  island  is  rocky,  witn  bluffs  at  the  points.  The  shore  of  the  rest  of  the  island  is  generally  a 
sand  beach,  with  rocks  in  the  vicinity  of  the  seal  rookeries. 

Dangers. — Kelp -marked  reefs  extend  about  %  mile  southeastward  from  the  two  low 
points  lying  ^s  mile  and  Ij^  jniles  southward  of  Northeast  Point.  A  dangerous  ledge, 
marked  by  kelp,  lies  1  mile  355°  true  (N.  by  W.  H  ^-  mag.)  from  Hutchinson  Hill.  It  is 
about  \i  mile  in  diameter,  and  its  least  depth  is  found  on  two  rocks  with  3  fathoms  over 
them.  With  a  moderate  swell  the  sea  breaks  over  these  rocks  and  for  a  short  distance  off 
Northeast  Point.  Depths  of  8  to  10  fathoms  can  be  carried  between  the  ledge  and  Hutchinson 
Hill  by  keeping  the  shore  aboard  distant  ?^  to  J^  mile. 

The  north  coast  from  west  of  Hutcliinson  Hill  to  Southwest  Point  is  free  of  dangers,  no 
reefs  or  rocks  until  witliin  14  ™ile  of  the  land,  except  off  North  Hill;  but  the  bottom  is  uneven 
and  rocky  and  the  anchorage  not  generally  good.     . 

A  rocky  patch,  with  7  fathoms  water  on  it  and  9  to  13  fathoms  around,  lies  with  Hutchinson 
Hill  bearing  80°  true  {NE.  by  E.  %  E.  mag.),  distant  3H  niiles.  There  may  be  less  water 
on  the  shoal,  as  the  locality  was  not  fully  examined. 

Off  North  Hill  a  shoal  extends  about  34  nule  northward,  the  depths  gradually  increasing 
to  4  and  6}4  fathoms  at  1  mile  from  the  coast. 

A  spot  with  5  fathoms  over  it  is  reported  8  miles  272°  true  ( WS  W.  %  W.  mag.)  from  the 
west  end  of  St.  Paul  Island.     Kelp  has  been  noticed  in  this  vicinity. 

Breakers  extend  J^  mile  or  more  off  Southwest  Point. 

A  dangerous  ledge,  usually  marked  by  breakers,  extends  J^  mile  southwestward  and 
southward  from  Reef  Point,  the  south  point  of  the  island. 

A  reef  extends  about  %  mile  off  Tonki  Point,  the  northeastern  point  of  Lukanin  Bay. 

Anchorage. — The  usual  anchorage  at  this  island  is  off  the  west  side  of  Reef  Point,  and 
there  is  also  an  anchorage  on  the  east  side,  off  Black  Bluffs.  From  the  anchorage  on  the  west 
side  the  village  is  hidden,  but  there  is  a  flagstaff  on  the  top  of  the  hill  overlooking  the  bay; 
from  the  Black  Bluffs  anchorage  the  village  is  in  full  view,  and  there  is  another  flagstaff,  the 
lower  of  the  two,  on  this  side.  If  a  vessel  is  seen  approaching,  the  United  States  ensign  is 
hoisted  on  the  flagstaff  on  the  side  on  which  she  ought  to  anchor,  and  the  ensign  is  kept  flying 
if  landing  is  safe,  but  hauled  down  if  it  is  not  safe. 

Vessels  should  not  attempt  to  ride  out  a  gale  at  anchor  near  the  islands,  unless  to  leeward 
and  well  sheltered.  The  surf  is  apt  to  make  quickly  and  is  dangerous  on  the  weather  sidg 
of  the  island. 

Landing. — In  Village  Cove,  the  landing  place  on  the  west  side  of  Reef  Point,  the  landing 
is  just  northward  of    the  bluff  point  where  the  flag  is  hoisted;    a  bar  extends   across  the 


88  ST.  paxjij  island. 

entrance,  on  which  the  sea  breaks  unexpectedly,  and  is  often  dangerous.  Boats  going  in, 
after  passing  north  of  the  point,  must  keep  close  in  to  the  small  point  just  outside  the  wharf. 
At  low  water  boats  can  not  land  at  the  wharf. 

The  landing  on  the  east  side  is  a  small  cutting  in  the  rocks,  close  to  a  salt  house;  with 
westerly  winds  and  high  water,  landing  here  is  easy. 

A  landing  can  sometimes  be  made  at  the  head  of  the  cove  on  the  south  side  of  Lukanin 
Bay,  when  impracticable  at  Black  Bluffs  or  Village  Cove. 

Village. — The  village  is  a  number  of  small,  wooden  houses,  painted  white,  with  dark  roofs, 
a  church,  also  several  large  buildings  for  the  Government  Agent  and  the  officers  of  the  North 
American  Commercial  Company  (which  in  1890  obtained  a  lease  of  the  Pribilof  Islands  for  20 
years).     There  are  about  250  inhabitants. 

Tides. — The  mean  rise  and  fall  at  St.  Paul  Island  is  2.1  feet.  Around  St.  Paul  Island  the 
flood  tidal  currents  sets  eastward  and  the  ebb  westward,  following  the  trend  of  the  shore. 
The  greatest  velocity  occurs  at  Northeast  Point  and  between  Reef  Point  and  Otter  Island, 
and  is  1  to  2  miles,  but  with  continued  strong  winds  from  one  direction  it  may  be  increased  to 
3  miles.  There  are  heavy  rips  around  Northeast  and  Southwest  points,  also  between  Reef 
Point  and  Otter  Island  where  they  are  worst  on  the  ebb.  The  tides  and  tidal  currents  are 
greatly  influenced  by  the  winds. 

NUNIVAK  ISLAND 

is  rarely  approached  by  vessels.  For  a  distance  of  10  miles  about  the  island,  especially  on  its 
east  and  north  sides,  the  bottom  is  reported  very  uneven,  consisting  of  ridges  with  deeper 
water  between.  The  island  should  therefore  be  approached  with  caution.  From  westward  it 
presents  gentle  slopes,  terminating  seaward  in  reddish  cliffs  150  to  462  feet  high.  The  highest 
point  of  the  western  part  of  the  island  is  830  feet,  which  is  found  10  miles  eastward  from  Cape 
Mohican.  Near  the  center  there  are  some  mountains  of  moderate  height  that  rise  with  a  gentle 
slope.  Except  some  hills,  the  eastern  end  of  the  island  is  low.  In  clear  weather  the  island 
can  generally  be  made  out  at  a  distance  of  30  miles  from  any  direction. 

In  1899  the  U.  S.  S.  Corwin  cruised  completely  around  Nunivak  Island,  following  the 
shore  and  outlying  islands  at  a  distance  of  about  2  miles,  and  found  general  depths  of  7  to  10 
fathoms.  The  coast  is  generally  abrupt  and  rocky,  with  numerous  bights  in  which  anchorage 
was  found  with  33^  to  7  fathoms  of  water. 

Cape  Mohican,  the  western  point  of  the  island,  is  in  latitude  60°  12'  45"  N.,  longitude 
167°  27'  W.,  as  determined  by  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  in  1902,  and  is  a  narrow  prom- 
ontory about  2  miles  long.  The  point  of  the  cape  is  a  cliff  266  feet  high,  from  which  it  falls 
e&stward  to  a  height  of  150  feet  in  a  distance  of  2  miles,  and  then  rises  by  a  gentle  slope  to 
the  higher  land  of  the  island. 

A  dangerous  ledge  extends  oflF  Cape  Mohican,  probably  1  mile,  though  the  distance  is  un- 
certain. Between  1  and  143^  miles,  westward  of  the  cape  the  soimdings  show  a  somewhat 
irregular  bottom  with  depths  of  13  to  over  23  fathoms.  A  shoal  with  4J^  fathoms  over  it  is 
reported  about  14  miles  271°  true  {WSW.  Yi  TF.  mag.)  from  Cape  Mohican.  It  is  reported 
that  a  reef  exists  IJ^  miles  north  of  Cape  Mohican,  and  extendi  eastward  about  3  miles;  this 
reef  was  observed  to  be  breaking  along  its  entire  length  with  a  smooth  sea.  A  shoal  with  3 
fathoms  and  less  is  reported  5  miles  349°  true  (iViVTF.  }^  TF.  mag.)  from  Cape  Mohican. 

A  shoal  with  9  feet  over  it  is  shown  on  the  charts  about  10  miles  46°  true  (NNE.  Y^  E. 
mag.)  from  Cape  Mohican.  A  line  of  soundings  with  12  to  13  fathoms  was  run  by  the  Manning 
about  2  miles  inside  (southward)  of  this  position,  and  another  by  the  Patterson  with  14  to  16 
fathoms  1%  miles  westward  of  it. 

From  Cape  Mohican  the  southwest  coast  extends  with  a  slight  curve  in  a  southeasterly 
direction  for  9J^  nules  to  what  may  be  called  the  southwest  cape  of  the  island.  This  stretch 
of  coast  is  impassable  cliffs  150  to  462  feet  high,  and  there  is  no  boat  landing.  The  6-fathom 
curve  is  about  IJ^  miles  offshore,  and  there  are  no  known  outlying  dangers.  An  observation 
of  the  tidal  current  gave  a  maximum  velocity  of  1.2  miles  on  both  flood  and  ebb;  the  flood 
sets  northwestward  and  ebbs  southeastward  alongshore. 


NUNIVAK    ISLAND.  89 

The  southwest  cape  of  the  island  is  chffs  100  to  150  feet  high,  the  summit  of  which  is  gentle 
slopes  of  tundra.  The  coast  here  changes  direction  gradually  eastward  for  2  miles  to  a  small 
cove,  which  is  the  first  boat  landing  southeastward  of  Cape  Mohican.  The  best  landing  place 
is  on  the  sandy  beach  in  front  of  a  small  native  village.  Fresh  water  can  be  obtained  from 
the  stream  just  east  of  the  village,  which,  at  low  water,  is  fresh  to  its  outlet.  A  temporary 
anchorage  may  be  made  about  %  mile  off  the  entrance  to  the  cove,  in  7  to  8  fathoms. 

From  the  southwest  cape  of  the  island  the  coast  has  a  general  122°  true  (ESE.  %  E.  mag.) 
direction  for  about  21J^  miles,  and  then  changes  direction  to  about  108°  true  {E.  mag.)  to 
Cape  Mendenhall,  the  southern  point  of  the  island.  In  the  first  22  miles  from  the  southwest 
cape,  the  few  soundings  taken  show  deep  watef  fairly  close  to  the  shore,  and  following  the  coast 
at  a  distance  of  2  miles  is  apparently  safe.  But  at  a  distance  of  5  miles  or  more  offshore  there 
is  an  extensive  bank  on  which  soundings  of  4%  to  6  fathoms  have  been  made.  The  bank  is 
included  approximately  between  latitude  59°  46'  and  59°  53'  N.,  and  longitude  166°  50'  and 
167°  20'  W. 

Cape  Mendenhall,  the  southern  point,  is  about  200  feet  high,  with  a  steep  bluff  on  its 
east  side,  which  extends  halfway  to  the  bottom  of  the  bight  between  this  cape  and  Cape  Corwin. 
Breakers  are  said  to  exist  6  or  7  miles  from  Cape  Mendenhall.  In  1900  the  Manning  rounded 
the  cape  at  a  distance  of  about  5}4  nailes  in  depths  of  13  to  14  fathoms. 

Cape  Corwin,  the  eastern  point,  is  low,  with  a  rocky  shore  north  of  it;  the  cape  is  definitely 
marked  by  the  twin  peaks  of  a  mountain,  which  can  be  seen  25  miles  in  clear  weather.  The 
Manning  passed  about  2  miles  eastward  of  the  cape  in  depths  of  10  to  11  fathoms. 

The  three  following  anchorages  are  from  an  oral  description  by  Capt.  J.  L.  Fisher,  who 
anchored  with  a  stern- wheel  steamboat  in  each  of  them  in  July,  1858; 

The  first  is  in  the  bight  between  Cape  Mendenhall  and  Cape  Corwin,  close  inshore,  in  3 
fathoms,  with  sand  and  gravel  bottom.     Fresh  water  can  be  obtained  at  this  anchorage. 

The  second  is  in  the  cove  on  the  north  side  of  Cape  Corwin;  it  is  very  rocky  and  a  poor 
anchorage.     Fresh  water  can  be  obtained  here;  it  is  discolored  and  of  poor  quality. 

The  third  is  on  the  north  side  of,  and  about  12  miles  eastward  of,  the  north  end  of  the  island. 
It  is  in  a  cove  open  eastward,  but  deep  enough  to  afford  shelter  from  northerly  and  southerly 
winds.  Captain  Fisher  considers  this  the  best  anchorage  on  the  east  side  of  the  island.  Fresh 
water  can  be  obtained  at  this  place.  In  1900  the  Manning  cruised  in  this  locality  and  reports 
that  the  anchorage  on  the  north  side  of  Cape  Manning  has  not  the  appearance  of  a  good  har- 
bor at  low  water,  and  that  the  rise  and  fall  of  tides  is  12  feet. 

From  Cape  Etolin  the  shore  trends  in  a  general  120°  true  (E.  by  S.  mag.)  direction  about 
20  miles  to  a  point  called  Cape  Manning,  and  from  the  latter  cape  to  Cape  Corwin  the  direc- 
tion is  176°  true  (SSE.  mag.)  and  the  distance  about  16  miles.  An  island  called  Triangle 
Island  lies  about  6  miles  westward  from  Cape  Manning,  and  about  3  miles  from  the  shore  of 
Nunivak  Island,  with  reported  foul  ground  between.  The  Manning  passed  about  1  mile  north- 
ward of  the  island  in  depths  of  7  to  9  fathoms. 

Cape  Etolin,  the  northern  point,  is  a  narrow  strip  of  land  about  %  mile  long.  There  is  a 
ridge  of  low  hills  about  midway  of  this  outer  strip.  A  small  island  lies  about  2  miles  off  the 
end  of  the  cape,  with  ledges  between  it  and  the  point  of  the  cape.  A  dangerous  rocky  spit 
makes  westward  for  probably  more  than  l}/^  miles  from  Cape  Etolin. 

On  the  southeast  side  of  Cape  Etolin  there  is  an  anchorage  in  Etolin  Bay,  which  is  a 
bight  open  northeast.  This  bay  averages  about  ^  mile  wide  and  nearly  ^  mile  long.  Near 
tlie  southerly  side  and  about  3^  mile  from  the  head  of  the  bight  an  anchorage  in  18  feet  can 
l)p  found;  farther  out  it  is  deeper  but  more  exposed  to  the  effects  of  the  strong  tidal  currents 
and  rips  of  Etolin  Strait.  The  holding  ground  is  gravel  and  only  moderately  good.  There 
is  a  small  native  winter  village  at  the  northwest  corner  of  the  bay. 

In  1900  the  Planning  made  a  reconnaissance  of  Nunivak  Island,  and  found  a  shoal  (3 
fathoms)  about  10  miles  355°  true  {NNW.  mag.)  from  Cape  Etolin,  with  deep  water  between. 
Keeping  Cape  Vancouver  bearing  northward  of  86°  true  (ENE.  mag.),  Cape  Etolin  can  be 
rounded,  when  comingTfrom  westward,  in  10  fathoms  of  water.     With  Cape  \'^ancouver  bearing 


4.0  NUNIVAK   ISLAND. 

86"  true  (ENE.  mag.)  or  eastward  of  this  bearing,  considerable  shoal  water  and  irregular 
depths  are  found. 

Nash  Harbor,  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  nearly  halfway  between  Cape  Etolin  and 
Cape  Mohican,  is  a  good  harbor  except  with  winds  from  northwest  throxigh  north  to  northeast. 
On  the  western  point  at  the  entrance  are  a  number  of  Indian  graves,  and  at  the  head  of  the 
harbor  is  a  frame  house,  which  can  readily  be  distinguished  at  a  distance  of  3  miles. 

Tides. — The  mean  rise  and  fall  at  Nunivak  Island  is  3  feet.  There  is  nearly  2  hours' 
difference  in  the  time  of  tide  on  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the  island. 

It  is  stated  that  the  tidal  currents  in  Etolin  Strait  are  so  strong  that  the  middle  portion 
does  not  freeze  over  in  winter. 

ST.   MATTHEW  AND  ADJOINING  ISLANDS. 

These  are  rocky,  iminhabitated  islands,  whose  shores  are  little  known  and  are  pooriy 
charted.  During  the  season  of  navigation  fogs  are  very  prevalent  in  their  vicinity  and  vessels 
should  keep  away  from  them.  From  what  is  known  of  them,  anchorage  may  be  made  with 
an  offshore  wind  on  nearly  all  sides,  though  the  shore  should  be  approached  with  great  caution. 

Pinnacle  Island  is  a  remarkable  narrow  rock,  about  1  mile  long,  200  yards  wide,  and 
900  feet  high,  which  rises  so  abruptly  from  the  water  that  there  is  scarcely  a  place  for  a  boat 
to  land.  There  are  numerous  small  rocks  near  the  island,  and  it  should  be  avoided.  Lieut. 
S.  P.  Edmonds,  R.  C.  S.,  reports  that  from  observation  and  bearings  on  Cape  Upright  and 
Sugarloaf  Peak,  Pinnacle  Island  is  about  2  miles  westward  of  the  position  shown  on  the  chart. 

ST.  MATTHEW  ISLAND, 

Cape  XTpright,  the  eastern  point  of  St.  Matthew  Island,  is  high  and  vertical,  and  the 
land  in  its  immediate  vicinity  is  mountainous;  off  the  cape  is  a  detached  rock  about  25  feet 
high.  Westward  of  the  high  land  of  the  cape  there  is  a  low  neck,  apparently  of  sand,  and  the 
cape  might  easily  be  mistaken  for  a  detached  island. 

Glory  of  Kussia  Cape,  the  northwestern  point  of  St.  Matthew  Island,  is  also  high  and 
mountainous,  and  the  land  between  it  and  Cape  Upright  is  a  succession  of  hills  and  low  valleys 
that  extend  across  the  island  from  north  to  south. 

There  are  numerous  detached  rocks  along  all  the  shore  of  this  island,  which  should  not 
be  approached  too  closely. 

There  is  an  abundance  of  fresh  water  on  the  island  in  streams  and  fresh-water  lakes. 

There  is  a  good  anchorage  on  the  north  side  of  the  island  in  a  bight  63^  miles  westward 
of  Cape  Upright,  with  Sugarloaf  Mountain  bearing  218°  true  (SSW.  mag.),  and  westward  of 
some  outlying  rocks  which  show  well  out  of  water  and  should  not  be  approached  closely.  This 
anchorage  is  protected  from  southerly  winds  between  southeast  and  southwest.  Landing  is 
difficvdt  with  any  swell  at  all,  as  the  beach  is  of  stones  and  rather  steep.  With  northerly  winds 
anchorage  can  be  had  on  the  south  side  of  the  island. 

Hall  Island  is  high  and  rugged  on  its  northeast,  north,  and  west  sides,  and  slopes  to  the 
southeast  point,  where  it  is  low.  There  is  a  large  detached  rock  off  Cape  Hall,  and  a  number 
of  detached  rocks  on  the  south  side  of  the  island.  There  is  anchorage  in  10  fathoms  on  the 
east  side  of  the  island  in  the  bight  where  ruins  are  indicated  on  chart  No.  8851. 

Sarichef  Strait  is  the  passage  between  St.  Matthew  and  Hall  islands.  The  tidal  currents 
and  rips  are  strong,  and  the  rocks  on  either  side  give  it  a  bad  appearance.  It  is  said  to  be  clear 
in  mid-channel.  '  PSI 

Tides. — The  mean  rise  and  fall  at  St.  Matthew  Island  is  2.4  feet.  The  flood  current  sets 
eastward,  and  the  ebb  westward,  at  the  rate  of  1  to  2}^  miles. 

CAPE  VANCOUVER  TO  APOON  PASS. 

Cape  Vancouver  is  a  bold  promontory,  possibly  1,000  feet  high.  The  shoal  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Kuskokwim  River  is  thought  to  extend  along  the  coast  to  Cape  Vancouver,  so 
that  on  the  south  side  of  the  cape  the  water  is  shoal.  Immediately  off  the  end  of  the  cape 
there  is  deep  water,  which  extends  about  5  miles  along  the  north  side  to  the  bight  on  which 


CAPE  VANCOUVEB  TO  APOON  PASS.  41 

the  native  village  of  Tanimak  is  sitiiated.  This  bight  is  a  series  of  mud  flats,  mostly  bare  at 
low  water.  The  Bear  anchored  in  43^  fathoms  about  1  mile  off  the  south  point  of  the  bight. 
From  observation  on  that  vessel,  shoals  extend  oflf  the  mouth  of  that  bight  northwestward, 
and  Ilazen  Bay  is  supposed  to  be  shallow. 

Father  Bamum  states  that  there  are  shoals  parallel  with  the  coast,  behind  which  small 
boats  go  when  coasting  between  Scammon  Bay  and  Nelson  Island.  He  is  uncertain  as  to 
their  exact  limits  and  location,  but  they  are  believed  to  extend  from  the  north  entrance  to 
Hazen  Bay  to,  or  nearly  to.  Cape  Romanzof,  with  passages  through  in  places. 

Cape  Romanzof  is  a  bold  and  prominent  headland  with  cliffs  rising  abruptly  from  the 
water  over  1,200  feet  along  its  western  face;  at  the  sharp  extremity  of  the  cape  there  are 
remarkable  perpendicular  shafts  of  rock  on  the  side  of  the  cliff.  The  cape  is  the  western  termi- 
nation of  the  Askinuk  Mountains,  the  highest  of  which  (2,363  feet)  is  about  5  miles  from  the 
cape  and  can  be  seen  a  considerable  distance  at  sea. 

Northeastward  of  the  cape,  4J^  miles,  is  the  southern  end  of  the  Sand  Islands.  These 
two  islands  extend  in  a  general  north  and  south  direction  about  13  miles,  including  the  interval 
between  them,  and  at  a  distance  from  the  coast  diminishing  from  7  to  5  miles.  The  north 
island  is  mostly  covered  at  high  tide. 

The  coast  trends  in  an  easterly  direction  from  Cape  Romanzof  15  miles  to  the  mouth  of 
Kun  River,  and  throughout  most  of  this  distance  is  bordered  by  abrupt  cliffs  and  hills  gradually 
diminishing  in  elevation. 

Scammon  Bay  lies  between  this  shore  and  the  south  Sand  Island.  In  general  it  is  very 
shoal  with  numerous  bars  bare  at  low  tide.  There  are  two  small  coves  along  its  south  side, 
respectively  1  and  9  miles  from  Cape  Romanzof,  but  both  are  quite  shoal.  There  is  a  limited 
area  with  depth  of  5  fathoms  just  south  and  east  of  the  southern  end  of  Sand  Island,  and  there 
is  a  channel  of  the  same  depth  leading  into  this  and  passing  about  2)4  miles  north  of  Cape 
Romanzof.  A  narrow  channel  with  a  minimum  depth  of  about  2  fathoms  continues  through 
Scammon  Bay  and  into  the  Kun  River.  There  is  2  to  4  fathoms  off  Cape  Romanzof  but  the 
water  shoals  quickly  northeastward,  so  there  is  little  protection  except  for  very  light-draft 
boats.  There  is  a  large  shoal  area  with  breakers  about  halfway  between  the  cape  and  Sand 
Island,  and  another  shoal  with  less  than  2  fathoms  lies  2}4  miles  338°  tnie  (NW.  %  N.  mag.)  from 
the  cape.  Along  the  high  land  forming  the  south  shore  of  Scammon  Bay  the  water  is  1  fathom 
or  less  in  depth  throughout  its  length,  excepting  just  inside  Cape  Romanzof.  The  mean  rise 
and  fall  of  tides  at  the  entrance  to  Scammon  Bay  is  5.2  feet. 

North  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kun  River  the  coast  is  low  and  marshy  to  the  Yukon  River 
mouths.  It  is  reported  to  be  extremely  shoal  between  the  northern  Sand  Island  and  this 
shore. 

The  bay  south  of  Cape  Romanzof  has  not  been  explored,  but  a  number  of  bars,  bare  at 
low  tide,  were  seen  extending  across  its  entrance  between  the  cape  and  the  north  end  of  an 
island;  near  the  latter  there  appeared  to  be  a  channel.  The  coast  between  Cape  Romanzof 
and  Nelson  Island  is  low,  and  it  is  reported  that  the  adjacent  waters  are  shoal. 

The  Yukon  Delta  extends  from  the  Black  River  to  Apoon  Pass,  a  distance  of  about  90 
miles.  The  land  along  the  coast  is  only  a  foot  or  two  above  high  water,  is  covered  with  low 
marsh  grass,  and  is  entirely  lost  to  view  when  but  a  few  miles  offshore.  The  only  landmarks 
visible  in  clear  weather  are  the  sharp  peaks  of  Kusilvak  Mountain  and  the  Askinuk  Mountains 
back  of  Cape  Romanzof,  all  very  distant  and  often  obscured  by  clouds  or  mist.  The  extreme 
flatness  of  the  land  and  the  remarkable  mirage  effect,  often  seen  over  the  shoals  when  bare, 
make  the  whole  region  deceptive  at  times. 

The  river  discharges  by  many  mouths  through  the  delta.  The  bars  at  the  entrance  have 
little  depth,  and  the  channels  through  the  flats  are  narrow,  crooked,  and  bordered  by  shoals 
bare  at  low  water.  They  are  also  subject  to  constant  change.  Apoon  Pass  (see  page  50)  is 
the  entrance  used  by  the  river  steamers. 

When  well  inside  the  confined  banks,  the  country  on  each  side  is  covered  with  an  almost 
continuous  growth  of  willow  and  alder  bushes.     The  water  has  a  brownish-white  appearance. 


42  YUKON   DELTA, 

something  like  glacial  water,  without  its  fine,  sharp  grit.  It  has  no  unpleasant  taste,  and  is 
always  fresh  in  the  inner  channels. 

The  main  channels  are  everywhere  free  from  snags,  though  trees  are  sometimes  seen  tem- 
porarily lodged  on  the  bars,  and  quantities  of  driftwood  are  piled  along  the  shores  in  places. 
Undoubtedly  the  ice  freezes  in  and  carries  off  the  snags  when  it  goes  out  each  season.  The 
channels  and  banks  show  indications  of  changing  rapidly  both  from  erosion  and  deposits. 
Very  probably  much  of  this  is  effected  each  year  during  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  its  con- 
sequent jams,  and  the  great  floods  following. 

Inhabitants. — No  white  men  live  in  the  delta  south  of  the  Apoon  except  the  CathoUc 
missionaries  at  a  summer  fishing  station.  The  native  summer  settlements  near  the  mouths  are 
shown  on  chart  9370.  The  natives  are  friendly  and  honest,  and  will  attempt  to  pilot  boats, 
with  more  or  less  success. 

Currents. — None  were  observed  to  exceed  3  miles  per  hour.  In  the  delta  channels 
currents  were  observed  varying  from  0.5  to  1.6  miles.  The  velocities  were  greater  in  the  bar 
channels  and  up  the  river. 

Weather. — The  prevailing  winds  in  summer  are  northeasterly,  easterly,  and  south- 
easterly ;  the  strong  blows  are  believed  to  come  from  the  same  directions.  Fogs  were  unusual, 
but  there  was  a  good  deal  of  thick  mist  and  rain. 

Yukon  Flats. — The  6-fathom  curve  is  about  10  miles  westward  of  Cape  Romanzof.     J'rom 

about  15  miles  off  Cape  Romanzof  the  6-fathom  curve  on  the  western  edge  of  the  flats  has  a 

general  24°  true  (N.  %  E.  mag.)  direction  for  about  108  miles  to  latitude  63°  32'  N.,  longitude 

164°  58'  W.     At  this  point  it  turns  to  a  general  87°  true  (NE.  by  E.  J4  E.  mag.)  direction  for 

61  miles  to  the  west  point  of  Stuart  Island.     On  the  western  edge  of  the  flats  the  3-fathom 

curve  is  1 J^  to  about  5  miles  inside  the  6-fathom  curve,  while  on  the  northern  edge  the  distance 

between  the  curves  ranges  from  5  to  10  miles.     For  a  distance  of  40  miles  northward  of  Cape 

Romanzof  detached  shoals  with  Z%  to  6  fathoms  over  them  lie  as  much  as  10  miles  westward 

of  the  flats  as  described  above,  and  deep-draft  vessels  should  give  the  cape  a  berth  of  30  miles 

to  avoid  these  shoals.     When  in  the  vicinity  of  the  flats  vessels  should  not  shoal  the  water  to 

less  than  8  fathoms. 

ST.   LAWRENCE  ISLAND. 

The  eastern  end  of  this  island  is  usually  made  by  vessels  bound  into  Norton  Sound,  and 
in  clear  weather  can  be  seen  from  a  distance  of  30  to  35  miles.  From  Southeast  Cape  a  ridge 
of  mountains  extends  in  a  northerly  direction  across  the  island,  and  another  ridge  extends  in  a 
northerly  direction  from  East  Cape  to  Northeast  Cape.  Between  these  two  ridges  a  deep 
bight  makes  in  from  southward  and  at  its  head  ver>"  low  land  extends  northward  across  the 
island.  The  shore  of  the  eastern  end  of  the  island  is  generally  a  low  sand  beach  with  outlying 
rocks;  the  mountain  ridges  begin  3^  to  2  miles  back  from  the  beach. 

Northeast  Cape  is  low  tundra  land,  with  numerous  fresh-water  lakes,  2  miles  wide  to 
the  foot  of  a  mountain  which  rises  abruptly  and  has  a  peak  1,435  feet  high  which  can  be  seen 
on  a  clear  day  a  distance  of  35  miles  or  more.  At  34  and  ^n  mile  from  the  end  of  the  cape  are 
two  hummocks  94  and  280  feet  high,  respectively;  the  lower  hummock  is  in  latitude  63°  17' 
45"  N.,  longitude  168°  41'  40"  W.,  as  determined  by  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  in  1902. 

Although  the  bottom  is  irregular  off  the  point  of  the  cape,  no  break  was  noticed  while 
passing  it  in  rough  weather.  The  north  shore  of  St.  Lawrence  Island,  for  a  distance  of  10 
miles  westward  of  Northeast  Cape,  is  a  low  sand  beach  and  grassy  tundra  with  numerous  fresh- 
water lakes.  Anchorage  vdW\  shelter  from  southerly  or  southeasterly  winds  can  be  had  along 
this  shore  about  2  miles  from  the  beach  in  8  to  9  fathoms  of  water;  the  holding  ground  is  not 
good,  the  bottom  being  gravel.  At  a  point  on  the  north  shore  6  miles  westward  of  Northeast 
Cape,  breakers  extend  1  mile  offshore. 

From  Northeast  Cape  the  east  coast  of  St.  Lawrence  Island  has  a  general  192°  true 
{S.  y^  E.  mag.)  direction  for  4  miles  to  a  point  where  a  spur,  450  feet  high,  from  the  higher 
hills  reaches  to  within  Vo.  mile  of  the  beach.  In  this  stretch  the  6-fathom  curve  is  5i  to  1  mile 
offshore.     A  current  observation  made  2  miles   southward   of  Northeast  Cape   and   1   mile 


ST.    LAWRENCE   ISLAND.  48 

offshore  gave  a  maximum  velocity  of  1.4  miles  on  both  flood  and  ebb;  the  flood  sets  northward 
and  ebb  southward  alongshore. 

The  east  coast  of  the  island  then  trends  209°  true  (8.  by  W.  mag.)  for  4  miles,  and  then 
curves  westward  and  northward  in  a  distance  of  5  miles  until  it  has  a  322°  true  (NW.  by  W.  mag.) 
direction,  forming  East  Cape.  The  coast  of  tliis  entire  section  is  a  low,  narrow  strip  with  a 
large  lagoon  back  of  it.  East  Cape  is  so  rounding  that  there  is  no  particular  point  to  which 
the  name  applies.     The  mountains  are  about  2  miles  back  of  it  and  are  about  900  feet  high. 

Punuk  Islands,  lying  4  to  5  miles  164°  true  (SE.  by  S.  mag.)  from  East  Cape,  is  a  group 
of  three  small  islands  1}4  miles  long;  the  northeastern  end  of  the  group  lies  about  13J^  miles 
192°  true  (S.  3^  E.  mag.)  from  Northeast  Cape.  The  northernmost  and  largest  island  has 
two  marked  rocky  hummocks,  the  higher  having  an  elevation  of  100  to  150  feet;  on  the  south- 
western end  of  the  island  are  the  remains  of  a  native  village.  The  southernmost  island  is  an 
irregular  mass  of  rocks,  the  liighest  point  about  75  feet  above  water.  Between  these  islands 
is  a  low,  sandy  islet,  which  is  separated  from  the  other  two  by  narrow  channels  completely 
obstructed  by  ledges  over  which  the  sea  breaks.  The  shores  of  all  the  islands  are  foul,  and  a 
ledge  extends  southward  from  the  southernmost  island;  the  Patterson  passed  2  miles  south- 
ward of  the  islands  in  a  least  depth  of  8  fathoms.  Vessels  should  approach  these  islands  with 
caution. 

A  heavy  break  was  observed  in  the  channel  between  Punuk  Islands  and  East  Cape,  and 
vessels  should  not  attempt  to  pass  through.  From  eastward  the  islands  can  be  approached 
as  close  as  2  miles. 

A  current  observation  made  2%  miles  220°  true  (SS  W.  mag.)  from  Punuk  Islands  showed 
the  flood  current  setting  about  24°  true  (N.  Y^  E.  mag.)  with  a  maximum  velocity  of  1.1  miles. 

Southeast  Cape  is  about  5  miles  across  on  its  southern  face;  the  eastern  point  of  the 
cape  slopes  gradually  to  the  water  for  a  distance  of  }4  ^i'^  from  the  high  land,  and  a  reef 
extends  about  K  mile  southeast  from  the  point.  The  western  point  is  lower  and  slopes  more 
gradually  to  the  water  for  a  distance  of  3  miles  from  the  high  land,  and  a  reef  makes  off  from 
the  point  in  a  southerly  direction  for  a  distance  of  2  to  3  miles.  The  bight  between  these 
points  is  very  foul  and  should  be  avoided. 

Cape  Kialegak,  about  5  miles  northward  of  Southeast  Cape,  is  a  long  sand  spit  strewn 
with  rocks,  extending  in  a  northeasterly  direction  from  the  high  land  of  the  coast,  and  forms 
what  is  in  appearance  a  good  anchorage  in  southerly  winds.  There  are  breakers  about  ^ 
mile  355°  true  (NNW.  mag.)  from  the  end  of  the  cape,  and  there  may  be  others  inside;  a  reef 
extends  southward  from  the  south  side  of  the  sand  spit  for  a  distance  of  about  1  mile.  The 
remains  of  a  native  village  on  the  sand  spit  serve  to  identify  the  locality. 

The  deep  bight  westward  of  East  Cape  is  Uttle  known;  vessels  have  anchored  well  up 
toward  the  head  of  this  bight.  Vessels  entering  should  give  the  points  a  good  berth  and 
exercise  caution. 

Cape  Chibukak,  probably  600  feet  high,  is  a  steep,  black  bluff,  flat  on  top.  There  is 
a  wide  sand  beach  west  of  the  bluff,  on  which  is  a  native  village  called  Gambell.  This  native 
village,  and  the  one  on  Southwest  Cape,  are  the  only  inhabited  parts  of  the  island. 

The  water  is  deep  close-to  Cape  Chibukak,  and  anchorage  may  be  made  on  either  side  of 
the  point  of  the  sand  beach  off  the  native  village,  }4  mile  from  shore,  in  about  7  fathoms,  hard 
bottom. 

The  western  end  of  the  island,  south  of  Cape  Chibukak,  is  rolling  land.  From  West  Cape 
around  to  the  bay  east  of  Southwest  Cape  the  land  is  mountainous,  and  abrupt  close  to  the 
coast,  being  highest  at  Southwest  Cape.  Between  the  high  land  east  of  Southwest  Cape  and 
Cape  Chitnak  the  land  is  low.  A  reef  makes  oft"  1  mile  in  a  220°  true  {SS  W.  mag.)  direction 
from  Cape  Chitnak  and  is  bare  at  low  water.  The  submerged  part  of  this  reef  extends  about  2 
miles  in  a  general  175°  true  {SSE.  mag.)  direction  from  the  bare  part.  This  reef  is  dangerous, 
as  the  water  shoals  abruptly  when  approaching  the  cape.  The  rest  of  the  island  is  generally 
high  and  rolling.  There  are  some  sunken  rocks  in  the  bight  westward  of  Southeast  Cape,  and 
also  some  detached  rocks  showing  off  the  north  shore  near  Cape  Kukuliak  and  North  Cape. 


44  ST.    LA  WHENCE   ISLAND. 

It  is  probable  that  with  care  an  anchorage  may  be  found  almost  anywhere  around  the  island, 
but  the  shores  must  be  approached  with  caution. 

Tides. — The  mean  rise  and  fall  at  St.  Lawrence  Island  is  probably  about  1  foot  at  the 
east  end,  increasing  to  perhaps  2  feet  at  the  west  end.  The  time  of  high  water  probably  changes 
rapidly  from  point  to  point,  but  no  tidal  observations  have  yet  been  made. 

NORTON  SOUND. 

Norton  Sound  is  at  present  the  most  important  arm  of  Bering  Sea.  Some  supphes  for 
the  Yukon  River  by  way  of  St.  Michael  pass  through  it.  The  north  shore  is  also  important 
because  of  the  mining  operations  now  conducted  there.  The  south  side  of  the  entrance  to 
the  sound  is  occupied  by  the  extensive  Yukon  Flats,  and  should  be  avoided  by  deep-draft 
vessels.  The  rest  of  the  sound  generally  has  soundings  of  8  to  12  fathoms,  the  greater  depths 
being  near  the  north  side.  Off  Cape  Nome  and  Cape  Darby  there  are  spots  with  depths  of  15 
to  19  fathoms.  The  bottom  of  the  sound  is  very  even,  the  depths  decreasing  to  the  shore  with 
marked  regularity,  and  the  lead  will  indicate  the  approach  to  dangers,  and  should  be  kept 
going  constantly.     There  is  driftwood  on  all  the  shores  of  the  soimd. 

Fog. — The  remarks  on  fog,  page  27,  apply  also  to  the  region  west  of  Cape  Nome,  but  not 
to  Norton  Sound  east  of  it.  On  entering  the  sound  with  thick  weather  in  Bering  Sea,  the  fog 
will  almost  always  thin  out  and  gradually  clear  as  the  vessel  proceeds  up  the  sound.  At  St. 
Michael  fogs  are  rare. 

Mirage. — In  the  vicinity  of  St.  Michael  and  Stuart  islands  and  the  coast  southward  mirage 
often  distorts  the  appearance  of  the  land,  small  objects  being  sometimes  greatly  magnified. 

Stuart  Island  lies  northwest  of  St.  Michael  Island,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  Stephens 
Pass,  about  %  mile  wide  in  its  narrowest  part.  Stuart  Mountain,  483  feet  high  east  of  the 
center,  is  the  liighest  point.  The  rest  of  the  island  is  low  and  rolling,  with  some  small,  scattered 
peaks.  The  shore  of  the  island  is  very  irregular.  From  North  Point  to  Observation  Point 
and  around  through  Stephens  Pass  is  a  line  of  conspicuous  bluffs  about  170  feet  high;  the  rest 
of  the  coast  is  much  lower.  From  Observation  Point  to  the  west  point  of  the  island  the  north 
shore  is  free  from  outlying  dangers;  5  fathoms  can  be  carried  1  mile  from  the  beach.  Off 
the  west  point,  some  detached  rocks  extend  about  300  yards.  On  the  east  face  of  the  island 
well  toward  the  southeast  point  a  shoal  makes  out  about  3  miles. 

St.  Michael  Island  is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a  narrow,  crooked,  tidal  slough, 
called  St.  Michael  Canal.  The  island  is  generally  low,  and  has  two  conspicuous  elevations: 
St.  Michael  Hill,  near  the  center,  472  feet  high;  and  Stephens  Hill,  a  sharp,  conical  hill  over- 
looking Stephens  Pass.  'There  is  a  fixed  white  light  on  Cape  Stephens,  the  western  point  of 
St.  Michael  Island.  A  reef  extends  IJ^  miles  off  Eock  Point,  the  point  51°  true  (NNE.  Y^  E. 
mag.)  from  St.  Michael  Hill,  and  is  marked  on  its  northeast  edge  by  a  buoy  (spar,  red.  No.  2) 
in  20  feet  of  water. 

Whale  Island,  lying  close  off  the  east  end  of  St.  Michael  Island,  is  about  }4  mile  long 
east  and  west,  118  feet  high,  and  on  approaching  the  harbor  its  east  end  is  seen  as  a  vertical 
bluff.  It  is  marked  on  its  eastern  end  by  a  fixed  white  light.  The  passage  between  this  and 
St.  Michael  Island  is  blocked  by  rocks,  bare  at  low  water.  Eastward  and  northward  of  the 
island  the  water  deepens  rapidly. 

Beulah  Island,  about  }4  ^lile  northwest  from  Whale  Island,  is  about  50  feet  liigh,  small 
and  rounded.  It  has  bold  water  off  its  northeast  side.  Between  this  and  Whale  Island  the 
water  is  shoal.  >! 

ST.  MICHAEL. 

St.  Michael,  on  the  east  point  of  St.  Michael  Island,  is  the  point  of  transfer  from  deep- 
water  vessels  to  the  Yukon  River  steamboats  of  the  trading  and  transportation  companies 
doing  business  on  the  Yukon  and  its  tributaries.  This  trade  during  the  open  season  of  about 
four  months  is  extensive.     Some  of  the  companies  have  small  wharves  for  the  light-draft  river 


NORTON  SOUND.  45 

vessels,  and  extensive  warehouses  on  St.  Michael  Island  and  opposite  on  the  mainland.  Sea- 
going vessels  discharge  their  cargoes  by  lighters.  There  is  a  wireless  telegraph  station,  and 
communication  by  telegraph  with  the  interior  of  Alaska  and  Seattle. 

Supplies. — Coal  can  generally  be  had  for  steamers;  water  and  general  supplies  can  be 
had  at  St.  Michael. 

Repairs.— The  facilities  for  repairs  above  water  and  to  woodwork  are  good.  Several 
blacksmith  shops  and  small  macliine  shops  can  handle  ironwork  and  minor  repairs  to  machinery. 

Anchorage.— There  is  no  harbor  for  seagoing  vessels;  the  anchorage  is  an  open  road- 
stead exposed  to  winds  from  northwest  through  north  to  east.  The  larger  vessels  anchor  in 
the  offing  between  St.  Michael  Bay  and  Egg  Island,  and  in  heavy  northerly  gales  shift  their 
anchorage  to  get  a  lee  under  Egg  Island  or  go  to  sea.  Anchorage  is  found  about  3^  mile  south- 
eastward of  Whale  Island  in  3 J^  to  4  fathoms,  bottom  dark-blue  mud  and  good  holding  ground. 

Light-draft  vessels  and  river  steamers  can  find  shelter  from  northerly  and  westerly  winds 
by  anchoring  close  in  under  the  east  side  of  the  island,  in  3  to  8  feet.  The  shores  of  St.  Michael 
Bay  are  strewn  with  loose  rocks,  which  are  often  frozen  in  the  ice  in  winter  and  dropped  as  it 
goes  out  in  the  spring.  Light-draft  vessels,  when  anchoring  in  shoal  water,  should  be  careful 
not  to  anchor  over  any  of  these  loose,  scattered  rocks. 

Egg  Island. — This  island  has  been  used  as  a  quarantine  station.  Vessels  detained  at 
quarantine  anchored  off  the  eastern  shore,  where  good  water  is  found.  The  water  off  the 
western  shore  is  deeper,  6  fathoms  being  found  close  inshore.  The  island  is  so  small  that  it 
does  not  afford  much  protection  in  heavy  weather,  but  it  is  the  only  lee  to  be  had  in  northerly 
gales. 

Tides. — See  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  tide  tables,  in  which  the  tides  are  predicted  for 
every  day  of  the  current  year  during  the  season  of  navigation. 

Ice. — The  records  of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company  from  1880  to  1899,  both  inclusive, 
show  that  ice  begins  to  move  out  of  St.  Michael  Bay  between  ISIay  31  and  June  25;  the  former 
being  the  earliest  date  recorded,  and  the  latter  the  latest.  The  earliest  date  recorded  for  ice 
forming  in  St.  Michael  Bay  is  October  6,  and  the  latest  November  10;  during  the  past  ten 
years,  however,  the  dates  when  ice  formed  ranged  from  October  18  to  November  10.  (See 
also  page  26.) 

ST.  MICHAEL  BAY  TO  CAPE  DARBY. 

The  coast  is  generally  low  and  rock  strewn  and  the  depths,  when  approaching  it,  shoal 
gradually  from  6  fathoms  toward  the  beach;  a  depth  of  3  fathoms  can  be  taken  as  close  as  ^ 
mile  except  in  a  few  places.  There  are  no  outlying  dangers,  but  a  reef  makes  off  about  3^  mile 
from  the  shore  2  miles  southward  of  Black  Point,  the  pofnt  about  36  miles  northeastward 
from  St.  Michael.  Tolstoi  Point  and  its  vicinity  are  high  and  rocky,  and  from  there  to  Unalak- 
lik  River  the  shore  is  low.  A  shoal  extends  about  l}4  miles  off  the  mouth  of  the  Unalaklik 
River;  there  is  no  channel  through  tliis  shoal  into  the  river  except  for  light-draft  craft.  Good 
anchorage,  in  southerly  winds,  is  found  in  the  bight  eastward  of  Kiktaguk,  about  15  miles 
eastward  of  St.  Michael.  There  are  a  number  of  native  villages  on  this  coast,  and  a  depot  for 
supplies  'at  Unalaklik. 

Besboro  Island  is  600  feet  high  and  very  prominent;  on  a  clear  day  it  can  be  seen  from 
St.  Michael;  it  affords  a  poor  lee,  as  the  wind  draws  all  around  the  island.  A  shoal,  with  depths 
of  4  to  4%  fathoms,  makes  off  2  miles  in  a  northeasterly  direction  from  the  north  end  of  the 
island;  the  western  side  of  the  island  is  bold-to,  and  the  eastern  side  of  the  island  can  be 
approached  as  close  as  }^  mile,  with  a  depth  of  over  5  fathoms.  j 

Cape  Denbigh  is  a  moderately  Wgh,  rounded  hill,  joined  to  the  mainland  by  a  low,  narrow 
neck.  The  head  of  the  bight,  eastward  of  the  cape,  is  shoal,  but  in  approaching  the  water 
shoals  gradually.  A  good  anchorage  in  northeasterly  winds  can  be  had  eastward  of  the  cape- 
in  depths  suitable  to  the  draft  of  the  vessel.  The  south  end  of  the  cape  is  bold-to,  and  its 
western  side,  2)^  miles  northward  of  the  point,  can  be  approached  close-to  in  4  fathoms  of  water. 
The  water  shoals  rapidly  inside  a  depth  of  4  fathoms  when  approaching  the  shore. 


46  NORTON  SOUND. 

Norton  Bay  is  generally  shoal.  About  midway  between  Point  Dexter  and  Bald  Head 
there  is  a  depth  of  about  6  fathoms,  and  from  this  depth  the  water  shoals  gradually,  as  the 
shores  are  approached  in  any  direction  inside  of  Bald  Head.  In  some  places  the  6-foot  curve 
is  5  miles  or  more  from  the  beach.  The  north  shore  of  the  bay  for  a  distance  of  15  miles  west- 
ward of  Bald  Head  is  comparatively  low,  and  the  water  is  shoal  for  some  distance  from  the 
shore.  From  a  point  15  miles  west  of  Bald  Head  to  Cape  Darby  the  land  is  high  and  wooded 
along  the  coast;  a  few  native  villages  are  located  on  this  stretch.  For  a  distance  of  20  miles 
northeastward  from  Cape  Darby  a  depth  of  4  fathoms  can  be  taken  3^  mile  from  the  shore,  and 
in  some  places  much  closer.  The  water  shoals  gradually  on  approaching  the  coast,  but  the 
south  and  east  sides  of  Cape  Darby  have  deep  water  close-to.  During  strong  northerly  winds 
the  water  is  lowered  considerable  in  Norton  Bay. 

Cape  Darby  is  a  high,  rounded  mountain,  which  terminates  at  the  water  in  steep,  rocky 
bluffs.     Rocky  Point  is  a  high,  bold  promontory  with  irregular  rocky  cliffs. 

GOLOFNIN  BAY, 

the  entrance  to  which  lies  between  Cape  Darby  and  Kocky  Point,  with  a  width  of  10  mil^s, 
extends  in  a  general  northerly  direction  for  12  miles  to  the  entrance  to  Golofnin  Sound.  The 
east  shore  is  liigh  and  bold,  with  occasional  sand  and  gravel  beaches.  Carolyn  Island,  low 
and  rocky,  lies  34  mile  off  the  east  shore,  about  8  miles  north  of  Cape  Darby.  The  west  shore 
for  about  3  miles  north  of  Rocky  Point  is  high  and  bold,  but  beyond  this  is  a  low  sand  beach, 
with  a  prominent  point  about  5  miles  north  of  Rocky  Point.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  on  the 
west  side,  the  entrance  to  Golofnin  Sound  lies  between  a  sand  spit  projecting  from  the  eastern 
shore,  and  a  low  sand  island  extending  northward  from  the  west  shore  and  connected  with  it 
at  low  water. 

Deep  water  can  be  carried  close  under  Cape  Darby  and  Rocky  Point.  Eastward  of 
Rocky  Point  is  an  extensive  middle  ground  on  which  the  least  depth  found  was  3^  fathoms; 
on  its  east  edge  it  rises  abruptly  from  6  and  7  fathoms.  With  the  exception  of  this  middle 
ground  the  bay  is  free  from  dangers  south  of  the  low  point  on  the  west  shore,  the  deepest  water 
being  on  the  east  side,  and  ranging  from  1 1  fathoms  close  under  Cape  Darby  to  4  fathoms  3^  mile 
northwest  of  Carolyn  Island.  In  the  south  part  of  the  bay  the  high  land  may  be  approached 
closely,  but  off  the  low  land  the  3-fathom  curve  is  in  places  nearly  1  mile  offshore. 

Anchorage. — ^A  little  westward  of  the*  southern  sand  spit,  in  the  entrance  to  Golofnin 
Sound,  anchorage  may  be  had  in  6  to  7  fathoms,  with  protection  from  all  winds.  For  vessels 
whose  draft  prevents  the  use  of  this  anchorage,  the  best  is  off  the  point  on  the  west  side  of  the 
bay  in  about  4  fathoms.  This  is  unsafe  in  southerly  weather,  but  is  the  most  convenient  for 
communicating  with  the  head  of  the  bay.  By  shifting  anchorage  from  one  side  to  the  other  in 
Golofnin  Bay,  good  shelter  is  found  from  easterly  or  southwest  or  westerly  winds. 

Golofnin  Sound. — In  the  north  part  of  the  bay  an  extensive  shoal,  with  4  to  8  feet,  makes 
out  in  a  northeast  direction  from  the  west  shore  to  within  %  mile  of  the  east  shore,  its  ex- 
tremity lying  about  2  miles  93°  true  {ENE.  %  E.  mag.)  from  the  north  point  of  the  low  sand 
island  on  the  south  side  of  the  entrance  to  Golofnin  Sound.  The  channel  leading  to  the-entrance 
to  Golofnin  Sound  lies  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  bay,  passing  around  the  east  end  of  the  shoal 
and  following  the  eastern  shore  at  a  distance  of  ^  to  ^  mile,  with  an  average  width  of  800 
yards.  The  least  depth  in  the  channel  is  13  feet  at  low  water,  but  15  feet  has  been  taken  in 
at  high  water.  The  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  (diurnal)  is  about  3  feet,  but  this  is  influenced  by 
the  prevailing  winds,  which  have  a  tendency  to  bank  up  the  water  in  heavy  southerly  weather, 
and  to  lower  it  with  northerly  and  northeasterly  winds. 

Cheenik  (Golovin  post  office),  on  the  north  spit  at  the  entrance  to  Golofnin  Sound,  is  a 
distributing  point  for  the  mining  district  of  the  Fish  River  country. 

Golofnin  vSound  is  very  shallow  and  is  navigable  for  small  steamers  of  3}^  feet  draft  which 
ply  from  Golofnin  to  the  mouth  of  the  Fish  River,  which  empties  into  the  head  of  the  sound. 
The  channel  through  the  sound  is  narrow  and  tortuous. 


NORTON   SOUND.  47 

ROCBCY  POINT  TO  CAPE  NOME. 

For  about  22  miles,  from  Rocky  Point  to  Topkok  Head,  the  land  is  high  and  bold,  in 
many  places  rising  abruptly.  Beyond  this  to  Cape  Nome  the  coast  is  low  with  high  land  farther 
back.  Immediately  behind  this  low  land  is  a  large  shoal  lagoon  with  two  small  entrances,  the 
west  one  called  Port  Safety.  Between  Rocky  Point  and  Cape  Nome  the  water  is  deep,  the 
l)ottom  regular,  and  by  giving  the  shore  a  berth  of  1  mile  a  depth  of  6  fathoms,  or  more,  will  be 
found. 

Topkok  Head  is  22  miles  westward  of  Rocky  Point,  and  is  the  first  high  land  close  to 
the  coast  eastward  of  Cape  Nome.  Its  seaward  face  rises  al)ruptly  from  the  water  586  feet 
and  is  a  well-known  and  conspicuous  landmark. 

A  yellow  bluff,  572  feet  high,  on  the  east  side  of  Bluff  post  office,  about  6  miles  eastward  of 
Topkok  Head,  is  conspicuous,  but  not  as  much  so  as  Topkok  Head. 

Solomon  is  a  post  office  at  the  mouth  of  Solomon  River,  11  miles  westward  of  Topkok 
Head  and  17  miles  eastward  of  Cape  Nome.  A  railroad  is  under  construction  up  Solomon 
River.  From  a  survey  made  in  1902  there  was  a  depth  of  3  feet  on  the  bar  at  the  entrance  and 
inside  Solomon  River,  but  local  knowledge  is  necessary  to  keep  in  the  best  water. 

Port  Safety  is  a  small  anchorage  for  vessels  of  less  than  7  feet  draft;  it  is  about  8  miles 
eastward  of  Cape  Nome.  The  channel  is  narrow  and  has  a  depth  of  7  feet.  Small  vessels  can 
anchor  in  the  narrow  sloughs  which  lead  between  the  flats  inside  the  entrance. 

DIRECTIONS    FROM    UNIMAK    PASS   OR    FROM   CAPE    KALEKTA    TO  NORTON 

SOUND   OR  PORT   CLARENCE. 

For  vessels  of  any  draft. — If  no  observations  can  be  obtained  on  account  of  thick  weather, 
the  lead  must  be  depended  upon  and  used  constantly,  as  the  currents  are  liable  to  set  a  vessel 
off  her  course. 

To  avoid  Nunivak  Island,  and  also  to  sight  the  island  in  clear  weather  so  as  to  check  the 
vessel's  position,  the  course  should  be  laid  to  pass  about  18  miles  westward  of  the  island  in 
latitude  60°.  14'  N.  and  longitude  168°  04'  W. 

I.  From  a  position  5  miles  25 1^'  true  (SW.  by  W.  mag.)  from  Cape  Sarichef  lighthouse, 
on  the  eastern  side  at  the  northern  end  of  Uniraak  Pass,  a  344°  true  (NW.  by  N.  mag.)  course 
made  good  for  353  miles  shoidd  lead  to  the  above  latitude  and  longitude,  and  Cape  Mohican 
should  bear  about  95°  true  {ENE.  %  E.  mag.)  and  be  distant  18  miles. 

II.  Or,  from  a  position  S  miles  westward  from  Cape  KaleTcta  a  352°  true  (NNW.  J^  W. 
mag.)  course  made  good  for  376  miles  should' lead  to  the  above  position  with  Cape  Mohican 
bearing  95°  tme  {ENE.  %  E.  mag.)  distant  18  miles. 

On  the  above  courses  little  can  be  said  of  the  currents  except  that  with  a  strong  wind 

»  from  any  direction  a  current  is  likely  to  set  with  it.     A  slight  northerly  set  will  sometimes  be 

experienced.     Thick  weather  is  the  rule  in  Bering  Sea  during  the  season  of  navigation  and  care 

should  be  observed  when  in  the  vicinity  of  Nunivak  Island  (see  also  the  description  of  Nunivak 

Island,  page  38). 

III.  From  Cape  Mohican  bearing  95°  true  {ENE.  J/g  E.  mag.)  distant  18  miles,  a  4°  tme 
(N.  by  W.  34  W.  mag.)  course  made  good  for  1663^  miles  will  lead  to  a  position  in  latitude  63° 
N.  and  longitude  167°  40'  W.;  the  highest  peak  (1,462  feet)  3  miles  back  of  Northeast  Cape, 
St.  Lawrence  Island,  should  then  bear  300°  true  {W.  by  N.  mag.),  distant  35  miles,  and  will 
be  visible  in  clear  weather  at  this  distance.     From  this  position: 

IV.  Iflo^ind  to  St.  Michael. — Make  good  a  53°  true  (NE.  by  N.  mag.)  course  for  76}4 
miles  to  a  position  in  latitude  63°  46'  N.  and  longitude  165°  24'  W.  On  this  course  the  depth 
should  be  1 2  fathoms  or  more  until  the  vessel  has  arrived  at  the  above  position.  From  the  above 
latitude  and  longitude  a  93°  true  (ENE.  ^  E.  mag.)  course  made  good  for  81  miles  will  lead  to 
a  position  3  miles  northward  of  Stuart  Island  with  Stuart  Mountain  bearing  201°  true  {S.  mag.). 
From  this  position  make  good  a  126°  true  (ESE.  ^  E.  mag.)  course  for  143^  miles,  giving  the 
shore  of  St.  Michael  Island  a  berth  of  3  miles.     Whale  Island  light  should  then  bear  on  the 


48  BEBING  SEA — DIBECTIONS. 

starboard  beam  distant  33^  miles,  and  deep  draft  vessels  can  anchor  in  this  position  in  about 
5^  fathoms.     (See  also  "Anchorage,"  page  45.) 

On  the  93°  true  (ENE.  Yi  E.  mag.)  course  the  lead  should  be  frequently  used,  and  if  the 
water  is  shoaled  to  less  than  8  fathoms  while  westward  of  Stuart  Island  it  is  pretty  safe  to 
assume  that  the  vessel  is  southward  of  her  course.  Thick  weather  is  not  as  prevalent  in  Norton 
Sound  as  in  Bering  Sea,  and  it  is  but  seldom  that  Stuart  Island  and  the  mountains  south- 
eastward of  St.  Michael  can  not  be  seen  and  used  as  landmarks.  ^  s;        "^^.i-'^^' 

V.  Jj  hound  to  Oolofnin  Bay. — Follow  the  directions  in  section  IV,  and  when  the  vessel 
is  in  latitude  63°  46'  N.  and  longitude  165°  24'  W.  make  good  a  59°  true  (NE.  %  N.  mag.) 
course  for  71  miles,  which  should  lead  to  a  position  about  2  miles  southeastward  of  Rocky 
Point  (the  high  point  on  the  western  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay). 

VI.  If  bound  to  Nome. — From  a  position  in  latitude  63°  N.  and  longitude  167°  40'  W. 
make  good  a  33°  true  (N.  by  E.  J^  E.  mag.)  course  for  100  miles,  which  should  lead  to  a  position 
about  8  miles  from  the  beach  abreast  the  town.  Anchor  according  to  draft,  as  indicated  in  the 
description  of  Nome  on  page  51. 

VII.  If  hound  to  Port  Ohrence. — From  a  position  in  latitude  63°  N.  and  longitude  167° 
40'  W.  a  0°  true  (N.  by  W.  -li  W.  mag.)  course  made  good  for  138  miles  will  lead  to  a  position 
about  8  miles  from  Cape  York.     Then  follow  the  directions  under  heading,  "Port  Clarence." 

On  the  0°  true  (N.  by  W.  5^  W.  mag.)  course,  King  Island  should  be  left  about  8  miles 
on  the  port  hand  when  the  vessel  has  been  standing  119  miles  on  this  coarse.  A  northerly  or 
northwesterly  set  of  the  current  may  be  found  after  the  vessel  has  stood  about  90  miles  on  the 
course.  In  clear  weather  the  mountains  back  of  Cape  York  should  be  sighted  after  King 
Island  has  been  passed  and  the  cape  should  be  made  on  the  starboard  bow.  The  depths  until 
abreast  King  Island  range  from  15  to  20  fathoms;  but  northward  of  King  Island  the  soundings 
are  irregular  and  care  should  be  taken  not  to  be  set  eastward  toward  the  shoals  which  lie  off  the 
coast  between  Cape  Douglas  and  Point  Spencer  (see  page  53). 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS  FROM  ISANOTSKI  STRAIT  TO  ST.  MICHAEL. 

The  following  remarks  are  intended  to  apply  only  to  small  craft  and  river  steamboats. 

After  passing  out  of  Isanotski  Strait,  clear  of  the  outlying  breakers,  the  course  is  shaped 
for  the  east  side  of  Amak  Island.  Shelter  can  be  found  on  the  south,  southeast,  and  east  sides 
of  the  island.  Some  of  the  Moran  fleet  found  shelter  in  1898  on  the  east  side  in  about  6  fathoms. 
Capt.  J.  L.  Fisher  states  that  he  crossed  pretty  close  inshore  over  the  indicated  shoal  off  the 
southeast  end,  with  a  least  depth  of  7  fathoms.  He  also  states  that  the  outlying  rocks  and 
reefs  off  the  north  end  of  the  island  appeared  very  nasty  and  dangerous. 

Leaving  Amak  Island,  the  next  course  is  laid  for  Cape  Newenham.  Shelter  can  be  obtained 
it  is  believed,  on  either  side,  according  to  the  wind.  On  July  15,  1898,  the  bight  northeast 
from  Cape  Newenham  was  found  packed  full  of  ice. 

From  Cape  Newenham  the  course  is  laid  for  Nunivak  Island.  If  heavy  northerly  or  north- 
easterly winds  are  encountered  before  the  island  is  reached,  shelter  is  sought  in  the  depth  of 
the  bight  on  the  south  side.  Weather  conditions  being  good,  it  is  only  necessary  to  touch  at 
this  island  if  needing  water.  The  anchorage  on  the  north  side,  about  12  mil^s  eastward  of 
Cape  Etolin,  is  considered  the  best.     (See  Nunivak  Island,  page  39.) 

From  the  northern  end  of  Nunivak  Island  the  customarj^  course  is  to  cross  over  diagonally 
to  a  little  north  of  Hazen  Bay,  and  then  coast  along  just  outside  the  shoals,  in  3  to  5  fathoms 
of  water,  until  Cape  Romanzof  is  reached.  If  the  weather  is  unpropitious  or  water  is  required, 
an  anchorage  in  Scammon  Bay  is  made  close  inshore  on  the  south  side,  in  a  bight  where  a 
stream  empties. 

After  leaving  Scammon  Bay,  by  giving  the  spit  on  the  north  side  of  the  entrance  a  good 
berth,  the  remaining  distance  to  St.  Michael  is  made  by  skirting  along  on  the  outer  portion  of 
the  Yukon  Flats,  in  2  to  5  fathoms,  where  the  courses  are  exclusively  guided  by  the  use  of  the 
lead.  On  this  crooked  stretch,  after  the  mountains  of  Cape  Romanzof  and  the  Kusilvak  Moun- 
tains disappear,  no  land  will  be  visible  until  the  high  peaks  on  the  mainland  south  from  Stuart 


ALASKA..  49 

Island  are  sighted;  a  little  later  the  summits  of  Stuart  and  St.  Michael  islands  become  visible. 
After  Stuart  and  St.  Michael  islands  become  defined,  the  course  is  shaped  to  go  through  the 
pass  between  them,  and  then  skirt  aroimd  the  north  side  of  St.  Michael  Island  to  St.  Mchael. 

In  the  summer,  from  all  that  can  be  learned,  northerly  and  easterly  winds  prevail  a  large 
portion  of  the  time  between  Cape  Newenham  and  Cape  JRomanzof. 

The  tidal  currents  in  Etolin  Strait  are  strong  and  at  times  cause  heavy  tide  rips. 

COAST  FROM   ST.   MICHAEL  TO  APOON  PASS. 

St.  Michael  being  the  end  of  deep-water  navigation,  all  the  Yukon  traffic  beyond  this 
point  has  to  be  conducted  with  vessels  drawing  5  feet  or  less.  The  larger  river  steamboats 
leaving  St.  Michael  Bay  go  around  the  riorth  side  of  St.  Michael  Island  and  through  Stephens 
Pass,  between  St.  Michael  and  Stuart  islands.  The}-  give  the  reef  off  Rock  Point,  on  the  north 
side  of  St.  Michael  Island,  a  wide  berth,  and  after  passing  between  the  islands  a  straight  course 
is  made  slightly  westward  of  Point  Romanof.  When  the  summit  of  Point  Romanof  is  abeam, 
distant  about  IJ^  miles,  the  direction  is  changed  and  a  course  is  made  for  the  range  beacons  for 
entering  the  Apoon  Pass.  The  most  dangerous  portion  of  the  passage  is  the  14  miles  around 
the  north  end  of  St.  Michael  Island,  which  is  exposed  to  the  deep-water  swell  from  the  north. 
This  can  be  avoided  by  small  craft  by  going  through  St.  Michael  Canal. 

St.  Michael  Canal  se]>arates  St.  Michael  Island  from  the  mainland,  and  is  a  narrow, 
crooked,  tidal  slough,  which  forks  and  comes  together  again.  The  distance  through  by  way  of 
the  north  fork  is  18  miles,  and  by  the  south  one  20  miles.  The  southern  and  longer  one  is  the 
wider,  and  for  that  reason  is  the  one  generally  used.  There  is  a  sufficient  depth- in  the  canal 
for  ordinary'  river  steamboats,  but  its  northern  entrance,  wliich  has  some  scattered  rocks  in  it, 
is  too  shoal  to  enter  at  low  tide.  The  southern  entrance  has  about  3  feet  on  its  bar  at  mean 
low  tide.  Thus  far,  on  account  of  its  narrowness  and  sharp  curves,  it  has  only  been  used  by 
the  smaller  class  of  steamboats. 

From  Stephens  Pass  to  Apoon  Pass  is  42  miles  along  an  open  coast,  but  owing  to  the  pro- 
tection from  heav}'  seas  offered  by  the  flats  that  extend  seaward,  it  is  safe  in  summer  months 
for  the  flat-bottomed  river  steamboats  that  have  to  traverse  it. 

With  the  exception  of  the  promontory  of  Point  Romanof,  the  immediate  coast  is  low  and 
flat  all  the  way  from  St.  Michael  Island  to  and  including  the  Apoon  entrance.  The  promontory 
of  Point  Romanof,  340  feet  high,  stands  well  out  about  12  miles  westward  from  the  high  hills 
of  the  coast  range.  After  clearing  Stephens  Pass  it  appears  in  clear  weather  like  an  island  in 
the  sea.  Coming  north  from  the  Apoon  entrance  after  passing  Point  Romanof,  Crater,  St. 
Michael,  and  Stuart  mountains  appear  above  the  horizon,  and  afford  excellent  marks. 

In  moderate  weather  the  ocean  swell  is  not  felt  between  Stephens  Pass  and  the  Apoon 
entrance;  but  in  heav^'  weather  and  westerly  weather,  which  is  more  likely  to  occur  during 
the  latter  part  of  the  season,  there  is  a  choppy  sea  which  is  heavier  off  Point  Romanof  than 
elsewhere.  In  general,  after  rounding  the  north  side  of  St.  Michael  Island,  this  passage  is 
safe  for  river  steamers  in  the  summer  season.  During  the  latter  part  of  the  season,  however, 
high  winds  become  more  frequent,  and  the  boats  are  obliged  to  watch  their  opportunities. 

Anchorages. — River  steamboats  anchor  on  the  flats  or  in  the  channel,  wherever  exigency 
demands. 

Good  shelter  can  be  had  in  all  but  southwesterty  weather  in  the  cove  on  the  south  side 
of  Cape  Stephens,  in  6  to  9  feet  of  water.  Stebbins,  a  large  Eskimo  settlement,  is  located  on 
this  cove. 

In  the  southern  end  of  St.  Michael  Canal,  in  the  southern  branch,  just  above  the  junction, 
there  is  a  good  and  safe  anchorage  in  all  kinds  of  weather.  There  is  only  about  3  feet  at  mean 
low  tide  on  the  outside  bar,  and  it  has  to  be  crossed  at  high  tide. 

About  10  miles  southward  of  Canal  Point  is  the  Pikmiktalik  River.  In  the  mouth  of 
the  right-hand  stream  there  is  anchorage  for  medium-sized  steamers.  The  bar  to  this  stream 
has  only  about  2}4  feet  on  it  at  mean  low  tide.  A  shoal  extends  out  from  the  south  point  at 
the"  entrance. 

6083&-09 4 


50  ST.    MICHAEL  TO  APOON   PASS. 

The  mouth  of  the  Pastoliak  River,  about  2  miles  from  the  outer  end  of  the  Apoon  Pass, 
affords  anchorage  for  steamboats  under  medium  size.  The  Apoon  Flats  extend  in  front  of  the 
entrance,  and  it  can  only  be  entered  at  high  tide. 

.     APOON  PASS. 

This  is  the  most  northern  outlet  of  the  Yukon  River,  and  is  about  55  miles,  via  Stephens 
Pass,  from  St.  Michael.  It  is  used  exclusively  by  the  steamboats  trading  up  the  Yukon  and 
its  tributaries. 

Apoon  Pass  is  the  extreme  northeastern  limit  of  the  Yukon  Delta.  In  common  with  the 
rest  of  this  region,  the  country  is  low  and  flat,  it  being  1  to  2  feet  above  high-water  mark. 
Down  to  within  about  2  miles  of  its  mouth,  the  banks  are  generally  covered  with  low 
willow  and  alder  bushes  8  to  10  feet  high.  Near  the  mouth  the  land  becomes  more  marshy, 
and  a  considerable  area  westward  appears  to  be  entirely  an  open  marsh.  The  open  country 
eastward  is  flat,  and  is  niade  up  of  marsh,  ponds,  and  tundra.  The  only  high  ground  in  the 
general  vicinity  is  Hogback,  a  rounded  ridge  about  300  feet  high  lying  5  miles  east  from 
the  entrance.  Some  distance  back  from  the  coast,  12  to  18  miles,  is  seen  the  range  of  hills 
or  mountains  trending  southwestward,  which  extend  in  that  direction  to  where  the  Yukon 
makes  its  great  bend  to  get  around  the  end  of  this  ridge.  On  these  low,  flat  shores  there  are 
often  remarkable  mirage  effects,  tending  greatly  to  magnifj'  insignificant  objects. 

Bar. — Off  the  mouth  of  Apoon  Pass,  and  for  some  distance  northwestward,  the  bottom 
is  nearly  flat^  having  a  depth  of  about  2  feet  of  water  at  low  tide,  and  with  little  choice  as  to  a 
channel.  All  but  very  light-draft  vessels  must  time  their  departure  from  St.  Michael  «o  as  to 
cross  these  flats  at  high  tide,  or  must  wait  for  the  tide. 

The  distance  between  the  Apoon  mouth  and  the  head  of  the  delta  is  traversed  by  going 
up  the  Apoon  Pass  about  31  miles  to  where  it  branches  off  from  the  Kwikpak  Pass,  and  then 
up  the  Kwikpak  about  30  miles  to  the  head  of  the  delta,  where  it  and  the  Kwikluak  Pass  sep- 
arate the  Yukon  into  two  principal  mouths.  The  channels  and  banks  are  subject  to  rapid 
change  both  from  erosion  and  deposit. 

Inhabitants.— The  natives  are  mostly  migratory,  living  at  different  places  at  different 
seasons.  Their  principal  settlement,  after  leaving  St.  Michael  Island,  is  on  the  Pastolik  River. 
Kotlik,  about  6  miles  from  the  Apoon  mouth,  on  the  Kotlik  River,  has  a  store,  Greek  church, 
and  a  few  dwellings.  New  Fort  Hamilton  is  on  the  Kwikpak,  36  miles  above  KotUk,  where  there 
is  a  station  of  the  North  American  Trading  and  Transportation  Company. 

Pilots. — River  steamboats  in  general  carry  Eskimo  pilots,  who  may  be  hired  at  St.  Michael 
and  at  various  places  on  the  river.  They  are,  as  a  rule,  familiar  onlj'  with  a  portion  of  the  river, 
those  from  St.  Michael  usually  going  up  as  far  as  Andreafski.  A  number  of  native  pilots  live 
at  the  village  near  the  mouth  of  the  Pastolik  River.  Except  with  local  knowledge  a  pilot  is 
necessary  in  following  the  Apoon.  The  Eskimos  are  generally  quick-witted  and  have  a  good 
eye  for  the  water;  but  some  who  offer  their  services  as  pilots  have  little  idea  of  the  requirements 
'  of  a  steamer,  being  used,  only  to  their  own  skin  boats. 

Tides. — The  tropic  rise  and  fall  in  Apoon  Pass  is  4.8  feet.  The  tides  at  this  entrance, 
as  is  the  case  with  the  shores  of  eastern  Norton  Sound,  are  greatlj"  affected  by  the  winds, 
northerly  and  easterly  ones  making  low  waters,  and  southerly  and  southwesterly  ones  making 
high  waters.  The  wind  effect  may  be  sufficient  to  entirely  obhterate  the  natural  tide  conditions. 
The  effect  of  the  tides  reach  above  the  head  of  the  delta.  At  the  head  of  the  Kwikpak  Pass 
the  rise  and  fall  is  about  6  inches. 

Current. — The  ordinary  outflow  of  the  Apoon  is  much  less  rapid  than  other  mouths  of 
the  Yukon;  but  there  is  a  tidal  inflow  and  outflow,  the  velocity  of  which  depends  upon  the 
amount  of  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  at  any  particular  time. 

Ice. — In  the  fall  thin  ice  begins  to  make  in  the  river  the  latter  part  of  September,  and 
navigation  in  October  is  attended  with  danger  of  being  frozen  in.  It  is  more  than  probable 
that  the  movement  and  clogging  of  the  ice  in  the  breaking  up  of  the  river  in  spring  has  much 


APOON  PASS.  51 

to  do  with  the  location  and  pecuharities  of  the  channels  and  with  clearing  it  perfectly  from 
snags. 

Supplies. — -Immediately  within  the  Apoon  mouth  the  water  is  fresh,  and  that  on  the 
flats  outside,  close  in,  is  nearly  so,  the  degree  of  freshness  depending  upon  the  stage  of  the  tide. 

Cord  wood  is  cut  and  sold  by  the  natives  along  the  river  from  the  mouth  up.  Small  wood 
piles  can  be  seen  at  intervals.  That  in  the  delta,  and  more  particularly  near  the  mouth,  is 
of  inferior  quality,  being  cut  from  wet  driftwood. 

COAST  FROM   CAPE  NOME  TO  BERING   STRAIT. 

Cape  Nome  is  a  bluff,  about  300  feet  high,  apparently  1  mile  broad,  and  rounded  down 
to  the  water  on  either  side,  where  there  is  low  land  at  the  shore,  with  higher  land  farther  back. 
The  water  off  this  cape  is  quite  deep.  The  tropic  rise  and  fall  of  tides  at  Cape  Nome  is  2.1 
feet. 

From  Cape  Nome  to  Cape  Rodney  the  coast,  except  abreast  of  Sledge  Island,  is  a  com- 
paratively straight  stretch  of  low  sand  beach  with  no  projecting  points  and  the  higher  land 
some  distance  back.  Abreast  of  Sledge  Island  for  a  distance  of  several  miles  the  hills  slope 
down  to  the  beach,  giving  this  part  of  the  coast  the  appearance  of  a  point.  The  stretch  of 
beach  is  broken  by  a  number  of  small  rivers  where  mining  is  in  progress.  The  entrances  to 
Nome,  Snake,  Penny,  and  Sinuk  rivers  have  shifting  bars,  but  there  is  generally  water  enough 
in  the  channels  over  these  bars  to  permit  steamers  of  4  feet  draft  to  enter.  When  approaching 
the  coast,  between  Cape  Nome  and  Sledge  Island,  the  water  shoals  regularlj'  and  gradually 
until  a  depth  of  5  fathoms  is  reached ;  inside  this  depth  the  bottom  is  irregular,  especially  near 
the  mouths  of  the  rivers. 

A  small  shoal,  with  about  18  feet  over  it,  lies  about  9  miles  westward  of  Cape  Nome  and 
2^  miles  offshore.  Shoals  extend  a  comparatively  short  distance  off  the  mouth  of  Nome 
River. 

Nome  is  on  the  beach  at  the  mouth  of  the  Snake  River,  about  11  miles  westward  of  Cape 
Nome.  The  general  anchorage  for  deep-draft  vessels  is  in  7  fathoms,  about  1  mile  from  the 
beach  abreast  the  town.  Vessels  of  less  draft  anchor  in  5  fathoms,  a  little  closer  to  the  beach, 
but  it  is  not  advisable  to  anchor  in  less.  In  strong  southerly  winds  no  landing  can  be  made  on 
the  beach,  and  the  anchorage  is  unsafe.  Southerly  winds  raise  the  water  and  northerly  winds 
lower.it.  At  Nome  there  is  a  relief  station  of  the  United  States  Public  Health  and  Marine- 
Hospital  Service  for  the  treatment  of  seamen  and  a  wireless  telegraph  station.  There  is  a 
railroad  up  the  Nome  River  to  Lanes  Landing  on  the  Kuzitrin  River,  the  latter  emptying  at 
the  head  of  Imuriik  Basin. 

Sledge  Island,  about  31  miles  west  of  Cape  Nome  and  43^  miles  offshore,  is  a  rocky, 
flat-toj)ped  island  rising  604  feet  above  the  water,  and  comparatively  rounded  in  outline.  There 
is  a  native  village  on  a  small,  rocky  slope  on  the  east  side;  excepting  this  and  a  short  sand  spit 
making  off  from  the  northern  end  of  the  island,  the  shores  are  steep.  The  island  may  be  safely 
approached  from  any  direction,  and  anchorage  may  be  had  on  all  sides  of  it;  the  bottom  is 
rocky  in  spots.  A  depth  of  63^2  fathoms  has  been  found  about  3%  miles  offshore  and  about  73^ 
miles  eastward  from  Sledge  Island.  During  heavy  weather  tide  rips,  or  breakers,  have  been 
observed  about  %  mile  eastward  from  the  northern  point  of  the  island;  a  depth  of  5  fathoms 
is  reported  near  tliis  locality. 

A  depth  of  3  fathoms,  hard  clay  and  boulders,  is  reported  7  miles  westward  of  Sledge 
Island  and  4  miles  from  the  beach  just  eastward  of  Cape  Rodney. 

From  Cape  Rodney  to  Cape  Douglas  the  shore  is  a  low  sand  beach,  and  the  high  land  is 
farther  inland  from  the  beach  than  eastward  of  Cape  Rodney.  This  coast  is  seldom  approached 
close-to;  the  water  is  comparatively  shallow,  and  dangerous  shoals  and  ledges  are  foimd  between 
Cape  Douglas  and  Point  Spencer.  Vessels  are  cautioned  to  exercise  care  when  approaching 
the  shore  while  southward  of  Cape  Douglas,  and  to  give  the  shore  between  Cape^Douglas  and 
Point  Spencer  a  berth  of^over^S^miles. 


52  CAPE   NOME  TO   BERING  STRAIT. 

Currents. — A  tidal  current  is  perceptible  from  Cape  Nome  to  Cape  Rodney,  but  the 
strongest  current  sets  northwestward;  lying  at  anchor,  vessels  usually  tail  northwestward. 
In  the  vicinity  of  Sledge  Island  and  between  the  island  and  the  mainland  the  currents  have 
considerable  velocity;  with  strong  southeast  winds  an  average  velocity  of  2  miles  and  a  maxi- 
mum velocity  of  3H  niiles  per  hour  have  been  observed  setting  northwestward.  Vessels, 
when  in  this  vicinity,  should  give  special  attention  to  the  currents.  Above  Cape  Rodney 
there  is  no  perceptible  current  southward  or  eastward;  the  general  set  is  northward  and 
westward. 

King  Island  is  rugged  and  rocky,  about  2  miles  square,  and  700  feet  high.  It  has  nearly 
perpendicular  cliffs,  deep  water,  and  generally  rocky  bottom  on  all  sides.  There  is  a  native 
village  on  the  south  side,  the  houses  being  built  in  the  sides  of  the  cliffs  some  distance  above 
the  water.  Off  the  village,  but  close  inshore,  vessels  may  anchor  in  about  15  fathoms,  muddy 
bottom,  with  good  protection  from  northwest  winds.  In  clear  weather  the  island  is  an  excellent 
landfall  for  vessels  coming  from  southward  and  bound  to  Port  Clarence. 

Cape  York  is  a  liigh,  rocky,  nearly  vertical  cliff,  with  numerous  ravines,  and  a  range  of 
high,  rugged  mountains  immediately  back  of  it.  The  cliff  is  about  10  to  12  miles  in  extent. 
There  is  no  distinct  promontory,  and  no  exact  point  along  the  cliff  that  can  be  defined  as  the 
cape.  The  water  shoals  slightly  off  the  western  end  of  the  cliff,  but  nothing  less  than  6  fathoms 
will  be  found  at  a  distance  of  23^  miles  from  shore.  A  shoal  with  2  fathoms  is  reported  about 
IJ^  miles  southeastward  of  the  cape. 

A  rock  is  reported  about  ^  mile  from  the  shore  southeastward  of  York  village. 

Between  Cape  York  and  the  high  land  of  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  there  is  a  bight,  with 
comparatively  low,  rolling  land  back  of  it  extending  across  the  peninsula  to  the  northern  shore. 
The  beach  is  low,  and  the  water  shoals  gradually  when  approaching  the  shore.  The  eastern  part 
of  the  bight  is  slightly  shoaler  than  the  western  part,  about  6  fathoms  will  be  found  1  mile 
offshore;  in  the  western  part  of  the  bight  8  fathoms  will  be  found  at  the  same  distance  from 
the  beach.  When  standing  westward  alongshore,  and  when  abreast  of  Cape  Mountain,  the 
water  deepens  suddenly  to  20  fathoms. 

PORT  CLARENCE 

is  a  good  harbor,  close  to  the  strait,  free  from  ocean  swell,  and  is  clear  of  ice  about  June  25  to 
30.  The  bay  is  formed  by  a  sand  spit  whicH  extends  from  the  mainland  about  10  miles  in  a 
northerly  direction  to  Point  Spencer.  The  point  is  bold,  with  depths  of  7  fathoms  as  close  as 
%  mile. 

The  channel  between  Point  Spencer  and  Point  Jackson,  on  the  north  shore,  is  about  4 
miles  wide,  clear  of  danger,  and  carries  7  to  9  fathoms.  One  and  one-half  miles  south  of  Point 
Spencer  a  shoal  makes  into  the  bay  from  the  sand  spit,  with  depths  of  2^  fathoms  1  mile  off. 
The  northern  half  of  the  bay  has  a  general  depth  of  7  fathoms  as  close  as  1  mile  from  the 
shore;  the  southern  half  of  the  bay  shoals  gradually  from  tliis  depth  toward  the  shore,  and 
the  extreme  southern  part  is  verj"  shoal.  The  north  shore  is  clear  of  danger,  and  can  be 
approached  as  close  as  3^  mile,  the  soundings  decreasing  regularly  to  the  beach. 

Port  Clarence  connects  at  its  northeast  end  with  Grantley  Harbor,  which  is  2  to  3  miles 
wide,  about  8V^  miles  long,  and  connects  at  its  eastern  end  by  a  narrow,  difficult  channel  with 
Imuruk  Basin.  The  mouth  of  the  harbor  is  formed  by  two  sand  spits  which  sUghtly  overlap; 
on  the  southern  spit  is  the  settlement  of  Teller,  a  post  office  and  distributing  point  for  supplies 
for  this  section.  The  water  westward  of  the  sand  spits  is  shoal,  but  there  is  a  channel  close  to 
the  north  one  which  can  be  used  by  vessels  drawing  12  feet  or  less,  but  which  should  be  sounded 
out  before  attempting  to  enter.  Inside  the  harbor  the  depths  range  fi"om  23^  to  3  fathoms,  and 
it  is  probable  that  a  draft  of  12  feet  can  be  taken  through  the  channel  to  the  basin.  Vessels 
have  gone  into  Grantley  Harbor  to  heave  down  and  repair  on  the  north  sand  spit.  Bering  is 
a  settlement  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Port  Clarence  about  5  miles  south  of  Teller. 

Fresh  water  can  be  obtained  in  several  places  in  Port  Clarence,  the  best  being  from  a 
stream  on  the  eastjside  near  Bering. 


POBT    CLAKENCB.  5t8 

Anchorages. — There  is  anchorage  in  5  fathoms,  just  inside  Point  Spencer;  also  in  6 
fathoms  13^  miles  off  Teller,  the  village  bearing  116°  tnie  {E.  J^  S.  mag.),  exposed  to  southwest 
winds  only. 

Fog. — ^In  this  vicinity  fog  is  quite  prevalent  and  very  dense  in  summer. 

Tides. — The  mean  rise  and  fall  in  Port  Clarence  is  1  foot.  Southwesterly  winds  increase 
and  northeasterly  winds  decrease  the  height  of  tide. 

Current.^Outside  of  Point  Spencer  the  current  sets  northwestward  with  a  velocity  of 
1  to  2  rmles  per  hour. 

GENERAL,  DIRECTIONS  TO  PORT  CLARENCE. 

In  approaching  Port  Clarence  in  thick  or  misty  weather  the  long,  low  spit  of  sand  and 
shingle  which  forms  the  west  side  of  the  bay  is  not  seen  until  close-to.  The  best  course  from 
southward  is  to  steer  directly  for  Cape  York,  bearing  in  mind  the  set  of  the  current  north- 
westward, and  after  making  Cape  York  follow  along  the  coast  eastward  until  the  entrance  to 
Port  Clarence  is  made  out,  then  steer  for  the  anchorage  just  inside  Point  Spencer.  Or,  follow 
the  north  shore  at  a  distance  of  about  2  miles  vmtil  abreast  the  settlement  at  Teller. 

Dangers. — A  ledge  with  a  reported  least  depth  of  1^  fathoms  lies  nearly  5  miles  offshore 
and  about  halfway  between  Cape  Douglas  and  Point  Spencer,  and  vessels  should  keep  well 
outside  of  it.  Extending  about  west-northwest  from  this  ledge  toward  Cape  York  is  a  ridge 
with  hard  bottom  and  depths  ranging  from  4  fathoms  near  its  so^ltheastem  end  to  5  fathoms 
in  about  the  latitude  of  Point  Spencer.  Spots  with  depths  of  6  fathoms  over  them  will  be 
found  15  miles  offshore  westward  of  Cape  Douglas.  It  is  recommended  that  vessels  approach- 
ing Port  Clarence  give  the  lowland  between  Cape  Douglas  and  Point  Spencer  a  berth  of  not 
less  than  5  miles  before  hauling  in  for  the  entrance. 


ABCTIC  OCEAK. 


The  remarks  on  the  navigation  of  Bering  Sea  (page  25)  apply  generally  to  the  Arctic 
Ocean  as  far  as  Point  Barrow,  except  that  the  current  and  souncUngs  in  the  Arctic  are  more 
uniform,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  shoals  at  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  Hotham  Inlet, 
Blossom  Shoals,  and  Point  FrankUn,  there  are  no  outlpng  dangers,  and  the  lead  is  an 
excellent  guide  in  approaching  the  land.  Another  exception  is  that  in  the  Arctic  the 
question  of  ice  must  always  be  considered.  The  following  remarks  on  the  navigation, 
weather,  and  currents  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  by  Capt.  M.  A.  Healy,  R.  C.  S.,  contained  in  the 
report  of  the  cruise  of  the  Revenue  steamer  Corwin  in  the  Arctic  Ocean,  1884,  though  relating 
to  an  extreme  season,  may  be  of  interest  to  those  navigating  these  waters : 

"In  my  previous  experience  in  the  Arctic  I  have  never  seen  a  season  hke  the  past. 
From  the  time  of  first  reaching  the  ice  up  to  leaving  the  Arctic,  dense  fog  has  been  almost 
constant.  Currents  that  have  hitherto  been  considered  permanent  in  direction,  if  not  in 
force,  have  become  erratic,  and  others  have  entirely  failed.  The  ice  fell  back  before  the 
sun's  advance  slowly  and  compactly.  For  three  weeks  after  we  reached  the  Diomede 
Islands  it  refused  entrance  into  Kotzebue  Sound,  and  three  weeks  later  still  it  was  hanging 
with  discouraging  tenacity  around  Point  Hope.  It  was  unsafe  to  anchor  with  any  but  a 
short  scope,  moving  steam  had  to  be  kept,  and  constant  vigilance  exercised  to  prevent  being 
dragged  ashore  by  fields  of  ice  moving  in  the  rapid  and  changing  currents.  For  weeks  at 
a  time  it  was  impossible  to  take  observations,  dead  reckoning  was  almost  worthless,  owing 
to  the  continual  changes  in  force  and  direction  of  the  currents,  and  the  safety  of  the  ship 
depended  entirely  on  the  constant  use  of  the  lead.  Fortunately  for  those  who  are  obhged 
to  sail  this  frozen  ocean,  the  depth  of  water  is  not  so  great  but  what  bottom  can  alwa5's  be 
obtained,  and  the  proximity  of  land  is  indicated  by  regular  shoaling,  with  but  few  exceptions. 


54  ABCTIC  OCEAN. 

Yet  with  this  aid  and  the  best  charts  that  we  have,  several  years'  experience  is  necessary  to 
enable  the  navigator  to  judge  with  any  degree  of  precision  the  position  of  the  ship.  Anyone 
at  all  familiar  with  coasting  knows  how  difficult  it  is  to  recognize  land  in  a  fog,  where  marks 
are  well  defined — high  bluffs  often  appearing  like  low  beaches  and  small  rocks  looming  to 
gigantic  size,  while  the  general  contour  of  the  small  portion  of  the  shore  visible  may  be  taken 
for  almost  any  land  that  one  expects  to  make.  How  much  more  difficult  must  it  be  where  the 
formation  of  the  shore  for  miles  differs  but  httle,  as  is  the  case  in  the  Arctic. 

"Among  the  best  landmarks  that  we  have  in  these  northern  waters  are  the  bird  rookeries 
at  King  Island,  the  Diomedes,  Cape  Seppings,  Cape  Thompson,  and  Cape  Lisburne.  The 
distance  between  these  rookeries  enables  one  to  form  a  very  accurate  idea  of  the  one  he  is 
approaching,  while  the  cries  of  birds  congregated  at  them  answer  the  purpose  of  a  fog  signal. 
With  one  or  two  exceptions,  these  are  the  only  aids  to  navigation. 

"In  the  shallow  waters  of  this  ocean  the  effect  of  the  wind  on  the  currents  is  very  marked. 

"Inside  the  Arctic  circle  snow  has  fallen  all  the  past  season,  and  it  may  almost  be  said 
that  there  has  been  no  summer.  As  late  as  August  27  ice  was  within  a  few  miles  of  Cape 
Sabine,  and  at  the  Seahorse  Islands  it  was  heavy  and  dangerous.  The  pack  at  this  time  was 
still  southward  of  Point  Barrow,  and  vessels  could  not  go  eastward  of  that  place  this  season. 
During  the  latter  part  of  our  stay  the  weather  was  exceptionally  severe.  About  the  Fox  Islands 
heavy  storms  were  frequent  and  rain  almost  incessant. 

"The  experience  of  many  years  in  the  Arctic  has  demonstrated  the  fact  that  no  rules 
whatever  can  be  given  as  to  the  time  of,  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice.  The  severity  of  the  winter, 
the  time  at  which  spring  weather  opens,  and  the  begimiing  of  southerly  winds  that  break  up 
the  ice,  all  have  their  influence  in  governing  this  time.  Vessels  have  been  able  to  enter  St. 
Michael  as  early  as  May  21;  tliis  year  we  found  ice  to  the  southward  of  St.  Matthew  Island 
on  June  2,  and  some  days  later  still  in  the  season  vessels  have  been  stopped  by  it  between  the 
Seal  Islands  and  Nunivak.  The  southern  limit  of  the  ice  is  almost  entirely  depenilent  on  the 
severity  of  the  winter.  Heavy  southerly  winds  and  swell  will  break  up  the  ice,  and  if  followed 
by  northerly  winds  it  will  open  out  and  the  waters  become  navigable.  When  once  broken  up, 
if  the  weather  is  mild,  it  will  not  cement  again  if  nipping,  and  consequently  will  open  more 
readily  to  light  winds.  Northeast  winds  tend  to  drive  the  ice  off  the  American  shore  and 
westerly  winds  off  the  Siberian  side.  With  these  few  exceptions  little  can  be  said  of  ice 
conditions. 

"In  clear  weather  the  ice  blink  indicates  the  presence  of  ice,  and  it  may  be  seen  a  great 
distance,  but  in  thick,  foggy  weather  approach  to  the  pack  must  be  made  with  great  caution. 
Its  proximity  is  usually  indicated  by  the  slack,  and  when  this  once  begins  to  be  seen  about 
the  vessel  it  may  be  judged  that  a  large  body  is  not  far  distant.  As  the  pack  is  neared  one 
sees  only  ice  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  It  rises  from  10  to  25  feet  above  the  water.  It  is  a 
well-known  fact  that  the  depth  of  water  and  the  surrounding  features  of  this  ocean  render 
the  formation  of  large  icebergs  an  impossibility. 

"When  a  pack  is  reached  it  usually  becomes  necessary  to  track  along  its  edge  to  find  a 
lead.  Whoever  is  piloting  the  ship  takes  his  place  at  the  masthead,  and  with  glass  in  hand 
seeks  for  a  favorable  opening.  Oftentimes  days  are  spent  working  up  and  down  along  the 
ice  without  clear  water  presenting  itself,  and  when  it  does  extreme  caution  must  be  used  in 
entering  the  lead.  It  is  here  that  the  jiidgment  and  experience  of  the  ice  pilot  becomes  a 
necessity.  The  weather,  currents,  appearance  of  the  ice,  probable  winds,  and  a  dozen  other 
things  that  would  never  enter  the  mind  of  a  novice,  are  to  be  taken  into  consideration  before 
the  vessel's  head  is  turned  into  the  pack.  Once  it  is  determined  to  enter  the  lead  vigilance 
must  be  doubled  and  every  faculty  kept  on  the  alert.  The  vessel  is  conned  from  the  mast- 
head, and,  while  directing  how  the  helm  must  be  put  to  keep  clear  of  immediate  danger,  the 
pilot  must  be  looking  ahead  for  the  clearest  water,  and  watching  ice,  sea,  and  sky  for  change 
of  currents  and  winds.  If  any  signs  of  the  closing-in  of  the  lead  are  presented  the  vessel  must 
be  gotten  out  as  soon  as  possible,  for,  if  shut  in  and  she  escapes  being  crushed,  she  will  go  to  the 


AT.ASKA.  55 

northward  in  the  drifting  pack  from  1  to  2  knots  per  hour,  and  it  will  become  necessary  to 
abandon  her.  If  the  lead  followed  up  is  between  the  ground  ice  and  the  pack  and  the  wind 
comes  on  shore,  a  safe  place  can  sometimes  be  found  behind  the  ground  ice.  A  vessel  may 
be  made  fast  to  this  ice  with  grapnels,  or  anchored  to  leeward  of  it,  and  lay  with  comparative 
safety.  If  anchored  in  a  current,  however,  with  drifting  ice  about  her,  the  scope  of  chain 
must  be  short,  and  everything  kept  in  readiness  for  getting  under  way  at  a  moment's  notice. 
If  anchored  in  shoal  water,  it  is  desirable  to  get  in  the  ice  as  far  as  possible  to  avoid  the  swell; 
but  if  the  water  is  deep  the  ice  should  be  avoided.  Generally  the  presence  of  the  ice  tends  to 
kill  the  swell,  and  it  will  be  found  much  smoother  inside  the  ice  than  out. 

"The  bowhead  whale  keeps  as  far- to  the  northward  as  he  can  find  spouting  holes,  and 
to  take  him  the  whalers  are  obliged  to  keep  as  close  to  the  pack  as  possible.  Usually  they 
track  along  the  Asiatic  side  in  Bering  Sea  and  Strait,  and,  as  they  reach  the  Arctic,  cross  over 
and  work  up  the  American  shore  to  the  northward  and  eastward.  In  Bering  Sea  there  is  very 
Uttle  danger  in  entering  the  ice,  as  it  is  almost  sure  to  open  and  offer  a  chance  to  escape  before 
reaching  the  Arctic.  With  a  knowledge  of  this  fact,  whalers  sometimes  enter  the  ice  to  the 
southward  of  the  strait  and  endeavor  to  work  through  it  if  they  have  reason  to  beheve,  from 
the  sudden  disappearance  of  the  whale,  that  there  is  clear  water  to  the  northward.  In  the 
Arctic,  however,  the  pack  is  carefully  avoided,  and  it  is  only  when  conditions  are  most  favor- 
able that  attempts  are  made  to  follow  up  the  leads.  Point  Barrow  is  approached  with  the 
greatest  caution,  as  it  is  one  of  the  most  dangerous  places  in  the  Arctic.  As  has  already  been 
mentioned,  by  far  the  major  portion  of  the  vessels  lost  in  the  Arctic  are  wrecked  in  its  vicinity." 

Ice. — Bering  Strait  is  free  of  ice  by  the  first  week  in  July  and  sometimes  earlier,  but 
clear  water  does  not  extend  very  far  northward,  and  it  is  seldom  possible  for  vessels  not  fitted 
to  encounter  ice  to  reach  Point  Hope  before  July  10-15.  Kotzebue  Sound  is  usually  open  by 
July  15,  at  times  a  few  days  earlier,  but  it  has  been  known  to  remain  closed  until  the  last  of 
July.  The  running  ice  from  Kotzebue  Sound  is  encountered  at  Point  Hope  some  time  after 
the  pack  has  moved  northward.     By  July  15  the  main  pack  has  moved  north  of  Cape  Lisburne. 

Thus  far  the  movement  of  the  ice  does  not  appear  to  depend  to  such  a  great  extent  on 
the  winds,  it  is  reasonably  certain  each  year,  and  dates  can  be  depended  upon  within  a  small 
limit  of  time;  but  north  of  Cape  Lisburne  the  movement  is  generally  slow,  uncertain,  varying 
greatly  in  point  of  time  in  different  years,  and  seems  to  depend  almost  wholly  on  the  winds 
for  its  further  movement.  Prevailing  northeasterly  winds  move  it  away  from  the  shore 
rapidly  and  early,  while  southwesterly  or  westerly  winds  hold  it  against  the  shore  and  make  a 
late  season. 

From  Icy  Cape  north  no,  specific  time  can  be  set  for  the  opening  of  navigation.  Its  varia- 
tions are  from  July  12  to  the  latter  part  of  August,  though  an  average  date  for  the  whaling 
vessels  to  reach  Point  Barrow  is  about  August  1.  Between  these  points  in  the  early  part  of 
the  season  the  ice  is  always  dangerously  near  the  shore,  and  southwesterly  or  westerly  winds 
will  bring  it  in.  Later,  the  southern  point  of  the  pack  is  just  off  Seahorse  Islands  and  generally 
remains  there  the  rest  of  the  season.  From  the  Seahorse  Islands  to  Point  Barrow  the  pack 
is  seldom  far  offshore,  and  from  the  latter  point  can  almost  always  be  seen.  During  the  open 
season  it  is  always  liable  to  come  in  on  these  two  points  with  a  westerly  wind. 

Beyond  Icy  Cape  there  is  always  danger  to  vessels,  and  strangers  should  be  cautious  and 
careful  in  going  there.  In  the  lead  of  open  water  between  the  pack  and  the  shore  the  current 
is  swift  and  nearly  always  carries  drift  ice,  and  .vessels  rarely  reach  Point  Barrow  at  any  time 
without  encountering  some  ice.  The  ice  can  not  be  forced,  and  vessels  should  not  venture 
into  small  leads  between  the  pack  and  shore  ice.  With  a  southwesterly  or  westerly  wind, 
which  brings  the  ice  in,  vessels  seek  protection  east  of  Point  Barrow  when  it  is  open,  in  Peard 
Bay  close  in  as  possible,  and  under  the  lee  of  heavy  ground  ice,  which  acts  as  a  breakwater 
against  the  smaller  cakes.  In  anchoring  where  there  is  drifting  ice,  vessels  should  use  a  short 
scope  and  be  ready  to  get  under  way  immediately.  A  comparatively  small  cake  will  some- 
times cause  the  loss  of  an  anchor  and  chain.     In  the  vicinity  of  Point  Barrow  sailing  vessels 


56  ARCTIC   OCEAN. 

should  not  go  offshore  in  water  too  deep  to  anchor,  as  in  Ught  winds  or  calms  the  current  is 
likely  to  take  them  into  the  pack.  Navigation  east  of  Point  Barrow  is  such  that  it  should 
only  be  attempted  by  those  having  experience. 

As  a  rule,  the  pack  does  not  come  down  on  Point  Barrow  before  the  latter  part  of  Sep- 
tember, but  in  1897  it  came  down  the  first  of  September,  and,  in  general,  except  for  whaling 
vessels,  whose  officers  are  men  of  long  experience  in  judging  the  ice,  weather,  etc.,  Septem- 
ber 1  is  as  late  a  date  as  vessels  should  remain  in^hat  vicinity.  About  this  time,  or  a  little 
later,  young  ice  begins  to  make  in  the  lagoons,  along  the  shore,  and  around  the  old  ice,  though 
it  is  not  likely  to  form  in  the  open  sea  until  the  last  of  the  month.  The  young  ice  makes 
stronger  and  spreads  over  the  open  sea  with  the  advancing  season.  It  is  dangerous  to  vessels, 
and  will  very  quickly  cut  through  one  not  sheathed  to  withstand  it.  Ordinary  vessels  should 
be  out  of  Kotzebue  Sound  by  September  15  to  20,  and  out  of  the  Arctic  by  October  1.  The 
whaling  vessels  make  it  a  rule  to  be  ready  to  leave  there  about  October  10,  and  though  there 
may  be  times  when  they  stay  later,  these  are  exceptions. 

At  times  there  is  a  body  of  ice,  which  holds  on  the  Siberian  shore  through  the  summer, 
that  moves  down  past  East  Cape  into  the  western  side  of  Bering  Strait,  sometimes  as  early 
as  the  latter  part  of  August,  and  makes  that  side  of  the  strait  difficult  of  navigation  late  in 
the  season. 

Weather. — In  summer  the  weather  is  usually  light,  with  much  fog  and  rain.  The  winds 
are  variable,  though  mostly  easterly  and  southerly.  There  are  seldom  gales  in  summer,  but 
occasionally,  sometimes  with  intervals  of  years,  there  come  southwesterly  gales,  short-lived 
but  very  severe  and  disastrous,  as  there  is  Uttle  protection  from  winds  in  that  quarter.  In 
the  vicinity  of  the  ice  the  weather  is  nearly  always  hght  and  foggy.  Later  in  the  season  it 
grows  more  boisterous,  gales  are  frequent  and  more  generally  from  northward,  and  as  the 
weather  grows  colder  there  is  considerable  snow. 

Currents. — From  Bering  Strait  to  Point  Barrow  there  is  a  general  current  setting  north- 
ward alongshore  (stronger  inshore),  which,  when  not  affected  by  winds  or  stopped  by  the  ice, 
has  a  velocity  of  not  less  than  1  mile  at  any  part  of  it.  The  current  from  the  strait  turns  north- 
eastward and  is  joined  north  of  Cape  Krusenstem  by  that  from  Kotzebue  Sound.  From  Esch- 
scholtz  Bay  a  northerly  current  sets  alongshore  on  the  eastern  side  of  Kotzebue  Soimd,  having 
a  velocity  of  ^  to  1  mile  at  Cape  Blossom.  It  continues  past  Cape  Krusenstern,  where  it  is 
increased  by  the  flow  from  Hotham  Inlet  to  a  velocity  of  1  to  2  miles,  and  northward  of  the 
cape  joins  the  current  from  Bering  Strait,  where,  in  the  latter  part  of  July  and  August,  its 
velocity  is  13^  to  2  miles.  It  continues  with  the  same  velocity  around  Point  Hope,  then  with  a 
reduced  velocity  to  Cape  Lisburne  and  across  to  a  short  distance,  south  of  Point  Lay.  After 
rounding  Point  Hope,  and  thence  to  Icy  Cape,  the  current  does  not  appear  so  strong,  and,  as  a 
rule,  is  about  1  mile. 

In  the  bight  between  Cape  Lisburne  and  Cape  Beaufort  there  is  a  tidal  current,  and,  imless 
driven  in  by  a  westerly  wind,  the  outside  general  current  is  not  felt. 

Northward  of  Point  Lay,  if  the  ice  has  not  opened  up  from  the  shore,  the  current  is  stopped; 
but  if  the  ice  is  open  to  Point  Barrow  the  current  continues  along  the  shore  and,  because  of  the 
contracted  space  between  the  shore  and  the  ice,  increases  in  velocity  to  from  2  to  3  miles,  and 
sometimes  more,  at  Point  Barrow. 

This  general  current  is  more  or  less  affected  by  the  wind,  and  may  be  decreased  or  even 
stopped  at  times  by  northerly  winds,  but  whon  the  wind  abates  it  starts  again.  When  the 
wind  is  with  the  current  its  velocity  is  increased.  Well  offshore  the  ciurents  are  variable  and 
not  so  strong,  and  depend  to  a  great  extent  on  the  winds.  There  is,  however,  a  general  set 
northward. 

Cape  Prince  of  Wales  is  a  peak,  2,300  feet  high,  comparatively  regular  in  outUne;  on 
the  south  and  southwest  sides  the  slope  of  the  mountain  comes  down  to  the  sea.  The  face  of 
the  cape  is  a  low  sand  beach,  which  extends  northward  3  to  4  miles  from  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  then  trends  northeastward  toward  Shishmaref  Inlet.     On  this  sand  beach,  close  to 


BERING   STBAIT.  57 

the  mountain,  is  the  native  village  of  Kingegau  (Wales  post  office),  the  largest  on  the  northern 
coast. 

On  approaching  the  cape  from  southwestward,  nothing  less  than  20  fathoms  can  be  had 
at  a  distance  of  %  mile  from  the  highland  at  its  southwestern  extremity.  From  this  point 
the  20-fathom  line  runs  nearly  northwest,  gradually  increasing  its  distance  from  shore  until  5 
miles  northward,  where  it  is  3  miles  offshore.  The  3-fathom  line,  commencing  very  close  to 
the  southwest  point,  increases,  almost  at  once,  its  distance  from  the  shore  to  1  mile,  continuing 
at  that  distance  rnitil  the  cape  makes  northeastward,  where  it  joins,  presumably.  Cape  Prince  of 
Wales  Shoal. 

Cape  Prince  of  Wales  Shoal  seeriis  to  be  a  ridge  of  sand,  which  extends  about  8°  true 
{N.  by  W.  mag.)  from  the  western  extremity  of  the  cape  to  a  distance  of  about  25  miles.  The 
depth  of  water  on  the  shoal  is  not  definitely  known,  but  numerous  cases  are  reported  of  whaling 
vessels  having  struck  on  it  at  distances  supposed  to  be  10  or  15  miles  from  the  cape.  The 
western  face  of  the  shoal  is  very  steep,  the  depth  decreasing  rapidly  from  20  fathoms.  It  is 
recommended  that  vessels  give  this  shoal  a  wide  berth,  and  not  haul  eastward  when  coming 
from  southward  until  at  a  distance  of  25  to  30  miles  from  the  cape.  Vessels  bound  southward 
through  the  strait  should  be  careful  not  to  fall  too  far  eastward  and  be  caught  between  the 
shoal  and  the  northern  shore,  especially  sailing  vessels  with  northerly  or  northeasterly  winds. 

Vessels  making  an  anchorage  off  the  native  village  of  Kingegan  at  Cape  Prince  of  Wales 
should  approach  it  only  from  southwestward.  The  soundings  decrease  rapidly  from  13  fathoms, 
and  anchorage  should  not  be  made  in  less  than  7  fathoms.  During  the  open  season  the  current 
sweeps  by  the  cape  northward  with  a  velocity  of  2  to  3  miles,  and  care  should  be  taken  in  making 
an  anchorage  here  not  to  be  swept  by  this  current  upon  the  shoal. 

Fairway  Rock  is  a  high,  square-headed,  steep-sided  rock.  The  bottom  is  steep-to  on 
all  sides,  and  there  are  no  outlying  dangers. 

Big  and  Little  Diomede  Islands  rise  abruptly  from  the  sea,  with  nearly  perpendicular 
sides;  they  are  steep-to,  and  there  are  no  beaches.  The  tops  of  the  islands  are  a  sort  of  broken 
table-land.  The  larger  island  is  1,759  feet  high,  the  smaller  somewhat  lower.  In  their  vicinity 
the  water  is  deep  with  generally  rocky  bottom,  and  the  anchorage  is  poor.  There  are  some 
rocks  above  water  close  to  shore  on  the  west  side  of  the  larger  one.  The  native  village  on  the 
larger  island  is  on  the  southwest  side,  off  which  vessels  can  anchor  in  14  fathoms,  sandy  bottom. 
The  channel  between  the  islands  is  about  2  miles  wide.  It  is  not  generally  used,  but  whaling 
vessels  have  passed  through,  carrying  20  fathoms  of  water,  favoring  the  side  of  the  channel 
next  the  larger  island.  There  is  a  native  village  on  a  rocky  slope  on  the  smaller  island  facing  this 
channel,  off  which  a  reef  of  rocks  and  sand  is  said  to  extend  a  short  distance  into  the  channel. 

East  Cape  is  a  bold,  rugged  headland,  about  2,500  feet  high,  steep  on  all  sides,  and  with 
deep  water  quite  close-to.  It  has  low,  marshy  land  back  of  it,  and  when  seen  at  a  distance 
appears  as  an  island.  There  are  no  dangers  off  the  land,  and  except  at  the  anchorages  the 
water  is  deep  with  rocky  bottom.  There  is  good  anchorage  (in  8  fathoms)  with  good  shelter 
from  offshore  winds,  on  both  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the  cape,  where  the  low  land  back 
of  it  begins.  There  is  also  an  anchorage  (in  10  fathoms,  muddy  bottom)  off  the  native  village 
on  the  face  of  the  cape. 

From  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  to  Shishmaref  Inlet  the  coast  is  a  low  sand  beach,  with  lagoons 
and  marshes  back  of  it.  On  a  clear  day  the  mountains  in  the  interior  can  be  seen,  the  Ears 
and  Potato  Mountain  (Cone  Hill)  being  distinguishable. 

Shishmaref  Inlet,  a  large  inlet  extending  into  the  land,  has  been  explored  by  prospectors. 
Across  its  mouth  is  a  low  sand  island,  with  shallow  openings  at  each  end.  Shoal  water  extends 
off  the  mouth  of  the  inlet  several  miles.  It  is  reported  that  small  craft  can  enter  the  inlet, 
and  that  there  is  shelter  for  such  behind  the  island  at  the  entrance. 

From  Shishmaref  Inlet  to  Cape  Espenberg  the  coast  is  higher  than  that  westward  of  the 
inlet,  and  is  a  line  of  low  bluffs  and  small  sand  dunes,  terminating  at  Cape  Espenberg  in  a  very 
low  spit,  which  is  made  out  with  difficulty.  A  number  of  small  native  settlements  are  scattered 
along  this  coast  from  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  to  Cape  Espenberg. 


58  AHCTIC   OCEAN. 

KOTZEBTJE   SOUND 

is  about  30  miles  wide  at  its  entrance  between  Cape  Espenberg  and  Cape  Krusenstern,  22  miles 
from  Cape  Espenberg  to  the  shoal  water  off  the  mouth  of  Hotham  Inlet,  and  extends  about 
30  miles  south  of  Cape  Espenberg.  Except  for  the  shoal  off  the  mouth  of  Hotham  Inlet,  the 
soundings  throughout  the  sound  are  very  uniform,  varying  from  7  to  9  fathoms.  From  Cape 
Espenberg  the  west  shore  of  the  soimd  is  shallow  some  distance  from  the  land,  and  vessels 
should  approach  it  with  care.  The  land  on  this  side  of  the  sound  is  generally  low.  There  is  a 
small  but  conspicuous  hill  about  halfway  between  the  cape  and  the  southern  shore.  On  the 
south  side  of  the  sound  the  land  is  higher,  more  rocky,  and  of  a  bolder  character  than  the  west 
shore.  Under  water,  also,  it  is  bold,  and  has  soundings  of  4  and  5  fathoms  quite  close  to  the 
promontories. 

Chamisso  Island,  at  the  entrance  to  Eschscholtz  Bay,  is  a  small,  rounded  island  with 
a  grassy  hill  231  feet  high.  Its  shores  are  rocky,  except  its  northeast  end,  which  is  a  low  sand 
spit.     Along  its  north  and  east  sides  shoals  extend  M  to  3^  mile  offshore. 

Puffin  Islet,  west  of  Chamisso  Island,  is  rocky,  with  two  conspicuous  rocks  southward 
of  it.  Between  the  island  and  rocks  and  Chamisso  Island  the  water  is  shoal  and  rocky.  The 
water  on  the  north  and  west  sides  of  Puffin  Islet  is  bold. 

Chamisso  Anchorage,  between  Chamisso  Island  and  Choris  Peninsula,  is  the  only  place 
on  the  Arctic  coast  of  Alaska  that  can  be  called  a  harbor.  B3'  shifting  anchorage  H  "lile  good 
shelter  can  be  found  from  all  winds.-  Off  Choris  Peninsula  shoals  extend  toward  Chamisso 
Island  fully  1  mile.  The  deepest  water  is  close  to  Puffin  Islet.  In  approacliing  the  anchorage 
give  Point  Garnet,  the  southwest  extremity  of  Choris  Peninsula,  a  berth  of  1  mile,  and  stand 
down  well  toward  Puffin  Islet  before  hauling  in.  Anchor  with  Puffin  Islet  bearing  203°  true 
(S.  mag.)  at  a  distance  not  greater  than  %  mile,  in  8  fathoms,  muddy  bottom. 

Early  in  the  season,  fresh  water  can  be  obtained  on  Chamisso  Island  and  on  the  east  side 
of  Choris  Peninsula. 

Tides. — The  mean  rise  and  fall  at  Chamisso  Island  is  4.0  feet. 

Eliwalik  River  empties  on  the  southern  shore  about  8  miles  southward  of  Chamisso  Island. 
It  is  reported  that  with  local  knowledge  a  depth  of  12  feet  at  high  water  can  be  taken  into  the 
river  to  an  anchorage  behind  the  spit  at  the  numth.  Kiwalik  is  a  post  office  on  the  spit  at  the 
mouth  of  Kiwalik  River. 

Deering  is  a  post  office  on  the  south  side  of  Kotzebue  Sound  at  the  mouth  of  Inmachuk 
liiver,  about  22  miles  westward  of  Kiwalik. 

Eschscholtz  Bay,  east  of  Chamisso  Island  and  Choris  Peninsula,  is  generally  shoal. 
The  soundings  decrease  gradually  from  Chamisso  Anchorage  to  23^  fathoms  at  2  miles  oflE  the 
point  which  lies  4  miles  west  of  Elephant  Point.  East  of  this  point  the  shoaling  continues, 
and  this  part  of  the  bay  is  only  navigable  for  small  boats.  The  shore  at  the  liead  of  the  bay 
is  difficult  of  access  on  account  of  long,  muddy  fiats,  wfiich,  at  low  water  are  bare  in  some 
places  }i  mile  from  the  beach.  It  is  probable  that  the  whole  bay  is  gradually  filling  up,  and 
vessels  going  east  of  Chamisso  Anchorage  should  proceed  with  caution.  Buckland  River,  a 
large  but  shallow  river,  empties  into  the  head  of  the  bay.     There  are  few  natives  in  its  vicinity. 

Choris  Peninsula,  forming  the  western  side  of  Eschscholtz  Bay,  has  two  hills,  about 
300  feet  high,  separated  by  a  low,  sandy  neck.  Northward  of  Choris  Peninsula  the  land  is  low 
for  some  distance,  and  then  rises  into  low  bluffs  which  continue  to  Hotham  Inlet.  These  bluffs 
are  composed  of  ice  and  frozen  nuid,  wliich  is  gradually  melting  and  sUding  down,  making  deep 
furrows  all  along  their  face. 

Cape  Blossom  is  a  distinctly  marked  point  in  this  line  of  bluffs,  which  are  highest  at 
the  cape  and  slope  to  either  side. 

The  bottom  of  this  side  of  the  sound  is  very  even  southward  of  Cape  Blossom  at  a  distance 
of  about  5  miles  from  the  land ;  but  northward  of  the  cape  a  shoal,  with  very  little  water  on  it, 
extends  8  to  10  miles  off  the  land  from  the  mouth  of  Hotham  Inlet,  and  south  to  witliin  2  miles 
of  the  latitude  of  Cape  Blossom.     This  shoal  is  very  dangerous,  as  the  soundings  give  short 


CAPE  BLOSSOM,  E.  BY  N.,  DISTANT  3  MILES. 


KOTZEBUE  SOUND.  69 

warning  of  its  proximity,  the  distance  from  the  shore  can  not  be  judged  under  ordinary  condi- 
tions, and  there  are  no  good  landmarks. 

The  general  anchorage  in  this  vicinity  is  off  Cape  Blossom,  as  it  is  the  nearest  point  frona 
wliich  communication  can  be  had  with  Hotham  Inlet.  In  approaching  the  cape,  it  should  not 
be  brought  to  bear  eastward  of  00°  true  (ENE.  mag.)  until  in  the  vicinity  of  the  anchorage. 
Anchor  in  5  fathoms  with  the  cape  bearing  between  90°  true  {ENE.  mag.)  and  102°  true  (E.  by  N. 
mag.)  distant  3  miles.  This  anchorage  is  protected  from  northerly  aiid  easterly  winds.  There 
is  generally  a  current,  strongest  in  the  early  part  of  the  season,  with  a  velocity  of  J^^  to  1  mile, 
setting  northwestward. 

The  coast  from  Cape  Blossom  to  the  mouth  of  Hotham  Inlet  is  the  place  ,of  rendezvous 
for  the  natives  of  the  surrounding  countr\'  for  the  purpose  of  fishing  and  trading.  The  coast 
natives  from  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  including  the  Diomedes  and  King  Island,  to  Point  Hope 
assemble  here  about  the  last  of  July  to  meet  those  who  come  down  the  large  rivers  from  the 
interior. 

HOTHAM  INLET 

is  about  35  miles  in  length  and  4  to  8  miles  in  width.  Its  general  trend  is  southeast;  its  water 
is  little  influenced  by  tides,  but  a  prolonged  southeast  wind  causes  a  low  stage.  The  entrance  is 
obstructed  by  vast  mud  flats  and  sand  bars,  some  of  which  are  bare  at  low  water.  There  is  a 
shifting  channel,  which  is  difficult  to  trace,  running  close  along  the  shore  from  Cape  Blossom 
north  to  the  inlet,  through  which  4  to  5  feet  can  be  carried.  This  channel  could  not  be  found 
in  1898.  A  channel  with  a  depth  of  8  feet  on  the  bar  at  high  water  was  used  in  1898,  but  it  is 
difficult  to  find  without  a  pilot.  The  entrance  to  this  channel  was  about  10  miles  from  the 
Cape  Blossom  shore  and  well  northward  of  the  cape.  Winds  from  southward  and  westward 
raise  the  water  on  the  bar  and  from  northward  and  eastward  lower  it.  In  the  inlet  proper  the 
channel  in  1884  had  a  depth  of  3  to  7  fathoms  for  a  distance  of  20  miles.  There  are  three  large 
rivers  emptying  into  the  inlet.  No  landing  can  be  made  at  many  places  in  the  inlet  on  account 
of  extensive  mud  flats. 

The  Noatak  River,  joining  it  at  the  north,  has  numerous  rapids,  and  is  not  navigable 
for  any  distance  for  boats  larger  than  native  canoes.  The  natives  portage  from  the  head- 
waters of  this  river  to  the  Ciiipp  River,  and  thus  to  the  Arctic  Ocean  east  of  Point  Barrow. 

The  Kowak  River  empties  at  the  east  side  of  the  inlet  by  many  mouths,  off  wliich  shoals 
with  2  to  4  feet  extend  far  out  into  the  inlet.  In  crossing  the  bar,  which  is  indicated  by  drift 
lodged  on  the  shoals,  it  is  difficult  to  find  a  channel,  the  one  generally  used  being  known  as  the 
"Middle  Mouth."  The  delta  from  the  inlet  is  about  45  miles  long  and  very  difficult  to  navigate, 
but  when  fairly  between  the  banks  of  the  river  there  is  comparatively  deep  water.  In  1898  a 
large  number  of  prospectors  were  attracted  to  the  region  of  Hotham  Inlet.  Two  stem-wheel 
steamers  were  used  in  transporting  their  supplies  up  the  Kowak  River,  and  it  is  said  that  these 
steamers  ascended  the  river  200  miles.  The  current  in  the  river  was  found  very  strong,  running 
at  some  points  with  a  velocity  of  5  or  6  miles  an  hour.  The  current  is  dangerous  for  small  boats; 
eight  men  lost  their  lives  in  1898  while  boating  their  provisions  up  the  river.  The  natives 
portage  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Kowak  River  to  the  Koyukuk  River,  a  branch  of  the  Yukon. 

Selawik  Lake  is  the  prolongation  of  the  head  of  Hotham  Inlet  eastward;  it  is  about  50 
miles  long  and  20  miles  wide,  and  a  depth  of  2  fathoms  can  be  taken  around  the  lake  by  giving 
the  shores  a  good  berth.  It  has  a  large  river,  Selawik  River,  emptying  into  it  at  its  head,  the 
entrance  of  which  is  obstnicted  by  a  mud  flat  extending  ^  mile  from  the  shore,  through  which 
a  depth  of  12  feet  could  be  carried,  in  1884,  into  the  westernmost  outlet  of  the  river  into  the 
lake. 

From  Hotham  Inlet  to  Cape  Krusenstern  the  coast  is  a  low  beach.  The  shoal  water 
from  the  mouth  of  the  inlet  extends  nearly  halfway  to  the  cape;  the  edge  of  the  shoal  is  steep,"^ 
and  should  be  approached  carefully.  From  where  the  shoal  joins  the  land  to  Cape  Krusenstern 
there  is  good  water  close  in,  with  regular  soundings. 

Cape  Krusenstern. — Back  of  Cape  Krusenstern  there  is  a  high,  prominent  range  of 
mountains,  which  can  be  seen  at  a  long  distance.     On  nearer  approach  the  mountains  are 


60  AKCnO   OCEAN. 

seen  to  fall  away  to  the  cape  in  a  series  of  steps,  and  in  shaping  a  course  into  the  sound  these 
cliffs,  or  steps,  must  not  be  mistaken  for  the  cape,  which  is  a  low  point  extending  about  3  miles 
westward  of  them.  A  shoal  extends  about  2  miles  westward  and  northward  oflF  the  point  of  the 
cape. 

From  Cape  Krusenstem  to  Cape  Seppings  the  coast  is  a  low,  shingly  beach,  back  of  which 
is  a  series  of  lagoons,  which  discharge  their  waters  through  small,  shallow  openings.  The  high 
land  of  Cape  Krusenstem  extends  along  this  coast  some  distance  inland,  terminating  in  the 
Mulgrave  Hills,  about  30  miles  northwestward.  After  passing  Mulgrave  Hills  the  land  is  an 
extensive  plain  until  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Seppings.  Here  the  mountains  approach  close  to 
the  coast  and  slope  down  to  the  water.  Cape  Seppings  and  Cape  Thompson  are  not  distinct, 
and  it  is  difficult  to  determine  the  points  to  which  the  names  should  be  applied. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Thompson,  for  a  distance  of  6  mUes,  the  mountains  break  off 
directly  to  the  water  in  a  series  of  abrupt  cliffs  about  500  feet  high.  The  coast  is  generally 
straight,  and  there  are  no  distinct  promontories.  What  was  probably  named  Cape  Thompson 
is  a  rugged  mountain  face,  about  in  the  middle  of  this  line  of  cliffs,  having  at  its  southern  end  a 
distinct  series  of  strata  in  the  form  of  an  irregular  semicircle.  In  the  ravine  south  of  this  point 
there  is  a  small  stream,  from  which  good  water  can  easUy  be  obtained.  Directly  off  the  water- 
ing place  anchorage  may  be  had  in  5  fathoms,  sandy  bottom.  At  other  points  along  the  cliff's 
the  bottom  is  generally  rocky. 

From  Cape  Thompson  the  mountains  continue  northward  to  Cape  Lisbume,  while  the 
coast  curves  northwestward  and  westward  to  Point  Hope. 

Point  Hope  is  the  western  extremity  of  a  low  tongue  of  land  which  projects  almost  16 
miles  from  the  general  line  of  the  coast  mountain  range.  It  has  a  steep  shingle  beach,  and 
its  surface  is  broken  by  a  number  of  lagoons.  The  largest  of  these,  Marryat  Inlet,  has  its 
entrance  on  the  north  side,  close  to  where  the  coast  trends  northward,  and  a  draft  of  10  feet  can 
be  carried  through  the  entrance.  For  a  number  of  years  some  small  schooners  have  been  using 
this  inlet  as  a  place  to  winter.  Those  not  familiar  should  sound  out  the  channel  before  enter- 
ing. In  the  first  of  the  season,  when  the  ice  breaks  in  the  inlet,  there  is  a  strong  current  run- 
ning out  and  the  moving  ice  is  more  or  less  dangerous.  There  is  a  large  native  village  called 
Tigara  on  the  end  of  Point  Hope,  and  scattered  on  the  south  side,  from  the  end  of  the  point  to 
Cape  Thompson,  are  a  number  of  whaling  stations  conducted  by  white  men,  which  are  main- 
tained throughout  the  year. 

In  the  bight  just  north  of  the  high  land  of  Cape  Thompson  the  water  is  somewhat  shoaler 
than  farther  west,  though  the  soundings  are  regular.  Seven  miles  east  of  Point  Hope  there  is 
a  3-fathom  shoal  nearly  1  mUe  offshore.  As  the  point  is  approached  the  water  deepens,  and 
toward  its  end  8  fathoms  can  be  carried  to  within  34  mile  of  the  beach.  The  tip  of  the  point  is 
very  bold,  there  being  13  fathoms  a  few  ship's  lengths  from  shore;  but  on  roxmding  the  point 
to  the  north  side  the  soundings  decrease  rapidly  to  5  fathoms  3^  mile  from  shore,  and,  in  general, 
the  water  in  the  bight  on  the  north  side  of  the  point  is  shoaler  than  on  the  south  side.  At  the 
mouth  of  Marryat  Inlet  shoals  extend  off  some  distance. 

There  is  a  narrow  shoal,  with  a  depth  of  4  fathoms  at  its  southern  end,  which  lies  about  234 
miles  314°  true  (WNW.  mag.)  from  Point  Hope.  This  shoal  extends  in  a  general  314°  true 
{WNW.  mag.)  direction  for  a  distance  of  3  miles  from  the  4-fathom  spot,  and  has  depths  of  5 
to  7  fathoms  over  it. 

From  the  mouth  of  Marryat  Inlet  to  Cape  Lisbume  the  mountains  lie  along  the  coast  and 
terminate  at  the  shore  in  rugged,  rocky  cliffs.  There  are  a  few  ravines  through  the  cliffs,  having 
running  streams,  with  beaches  at  the  shore,  where  fresh  water  can  be  obtained. 

Cape  Lisburne  is  a  bare,  brown  mountain,  850  feet  high,  forming  a  rugged  headland 
that  is  distinctly  marked  by  the  number  of  pinnacles  and  scattered  rocks  near  its  summit. 
Its  faces  at  the  shore  are  very  steep.  At  the  cape  the  coast  changes  its  direction  abruptly 
eastward.  There  are  no  outlying  rocks,  but  there  is  a  ridge  extending  5  miles  northeastward 
from  the  cape,  on  which  5  fathoms  can  be  found  at  a  distance  of  2  to  3  nules  from  the  land. 
Off  this  cape  the  wind  rushes  down  from  the  mountains  in  gusts  of  great  violence  and  varying 
directions,  and  with  offshore  winds  vessels  should  keep  well  off  the  land  in  passing. 


ALASKA.  61 

From  Cape  Lisburne  to  Cape  Sabine  the  land  is  lower  and  loses  the  rugged  character  of 
that  southward  of  the  former  cape.  The  hills  are  rounded  and  rolling,  regular  in  outline,  and 
slope  to  the  sea.  Toward  Cape  Sabine  the  land  becomes  a  series  of  ridges  and  valleys  running 
inland';  both  teratjinate  at  the  coast  in  bluffs. 

Cape  Sabine  is  the  end  of  one  of  these  ridges,  and  projects  but  slightly  from  the  general 
line  of  coast. 

Coal.— Veins  of  coal  are  found  from  Cape  Thompson  to  Cape  Beaufort.  In  the  face  of  the 
bluffs  at  Cape  Sabine  some  veins,  varying  in  thickness  from  1  to  4  feet,  have  been  worked  by 
whaling  vessels.  The  veins  show  plainly  along  the  top  of  the  bluffs  directly  at  the  shore.  The 
use  of  the  coal  is  limited,  owing  to  its  poor  qiiality  and  the  difficulties  in  obtaining  it,  and  it  is 
not  reconunended  to  depend  upon  it  excfept  in  case  of  necessity. 

From  Cape  Sabine  to  Cape  Beaufort  the  land  continues  of  a  rolling  character  until  near- 
ing  the  latter  cape,  which  is  a  dark  mountain  coming  down  directly  to  the  coast.  There  is 
no  break  in  the  coast  at  the  cape,  and  it  probably  received  its  name  as  such  because  seen  at  a 
distance.  This  is  the  most  northern  extension  of  high  land  on  the  coast  of  Alaska.  The 
mountains  at  this  point  trend  inland  and  the  coast  continues  low. 

The  bight  fi'om  Cape  Lisburne  to  Cape  Beaufort  is  comparatively  shallow,  but  the  bottom 
is  regular  and  anchorage  may  be  had  anywhere  alongshore  from  1  to  2  miles  from  land.  Directly 
off  Cape  Beaufort  the  water  is  shoaler  than  elsewhere  between  it  and  Cape  Lisburne.  There  are 
numerous  valleys  along  this  part  of  the  coast,  nearly  all  of  which  have  streams  of  good  water. 
North  of  Cape  Beaufort  it  is  almost  impossible  to  obtain  fresh  water  on  the  coast. 

About  10  miles  north  of  Cape  Beaufort  is  the  southern  end  of  a  large  lagoon,  which 
stretches  along  the  coast  without  a  break  to  within  a  few  miles  of  Wainwright  Inlet.  Sep- 
arating this  lagoon  from  the  ocean  is  a  narrow  strip  of  sand  beach,  elevated  but  a  few  feet  above 
the  water,  with  several  small,  shallow  openings  through  it  south  of  Icy  Cape,  and  two  con- 
siderable openings  north  of  that  cape.  The  land  on  the  inside  of  the  lagoon  is  generally  low, 
but  in  coasting  along,  some  small  bluffs,  with  low,  rolling  land  back  of  them,  can  be  seen  in 
places.  South  of  Icy  Cape  the  lagoon  has  three  large  rivers  emptying  into  it,  and  its  whole 
extent  is  filled  with  flats  and  bars  that  make  it  scarcely  navigable  even  for  native  canoes. 
North  of  Icy  Cape  the  water  in  the  lagoon  is  deeper.  Through  an  opening  about  10  to  12  miles 
from  the  cape  8  feet  of  water  can  be  safely  carried,  with  2  to  3  fathoms  inside.  The  channel 
is  close  to  the  sand  spit  on  the  south  side  of  the  entrance. 

Another  opening,  10  to  12  miles  farther  north,  is  somewhat  shallower. 

Point  Lay  and  Icy  Cape  are  merety  bends  in  the  sand  spit  forming  the  coast.  Both 
places  can  be  distinguished  by  some  Immmocks  on  the  beach.  A  wooden  beacon,  20  feet  high, 
was  erected  on  Icy  Cape  to  mark  the  beginning  of  Blossom  Shoals. 

From  Cape  Beaufort  to  Icy  Cape  the  ];ottom  is  regular,  and  the  shore  can  be  approached 
closer  than  in  that  part  of  the  bight  west  of  the  former  cape.  When  coasting,  it  should  be 
remembered  that  off  the  openings  into  the  lagoon  the  water  is  shoaler  than  on  either  side. 

Blossona  Shoals  extend  6  to  8  miles  off  Icy  Cape,  and  are  a  number  of  ridges  parallel  with 
the  coast.  These  shoals  are  greater  in  extent  than  shown  on  any  chart,  and,  from  the  groimding 
of  vessels  and  observation,  appear  to  be  spreading.  In  approaching  the  shoals  the  bottom  is 
lumpy  and  the  soundings  irregidar.  Of  late  years,  on  account  of  frequent  grounding  in  un- 
expected places  about  the  edge  of  the  shoals,  all  the  whaling  vessels  give  them  a  wide  berth; 
and  it  is  recommended  that  vessels  rounding  Icy  Cape  should  keep  outside  of  12  fathoms. 

Wainwright  Inlet,  alioiit  40  miles  from  Icy  Cape,  is  a  moderate-sized  lagoon,  and  has 
a  river  emptying  at  its  head.  Its  entrance,  between  Point  Marsh  and  Point  Collie,  is  a  narrow, 
difficult  channel,  through  which  8  to  10  feet  can  be  carrifed.  Inside  the  water  is  deeper.  Off 
the  mouth  of  the  inlet  the  water  is  shoal  fully  1  mile  from  land. 

The  coast  from  Point  Collie  to  Point  Belcher  is  a  continuous  line  of  mud  cliffs  until  within 
a  few  miles  of  the  latter  point. 

At  Point  Belcher  the  coast  again  becomes  a  shingle  beach,  with  lagoons  inside,  and  back 
of  it  low,  rolling  hills,  which  are  higher  than  any  other  land  that  can  be  seen  north  of  Cape 
Beaufort.     North  of  the  point  the  coast  continues  in  a  very  low  sand  beach  to  Seahorse  Islands. 


62  ABCTIC  OCEAN. 

Seahorse  Islands  and  Point  Franklin  are  the  highest  points  of  a  continuous  sand 
bank  which  extends  from  a  point  8  miles  north  of  Point  Belcher  to  Point  Franklin,  thence 
turning  abruptly  east  to  the  mainland  at  Peard  Bay  incloses  a  large  lagoon.  The  first  two 
islands  from  Point  Belcher  are  higher  than  the  rest  of  the  bank,  and  their  position  seems  to 
be  permanent.  The  openings  between  the  islands  are,  as  a  rule,  very  shallow  and  continually 
changing.  Former  openings  are  now  closed,  and  openings  now  occur  in  the  positions  of  former 
banks.  Point  Franklin  is  a  very  small  sand  island,  with  several  hummocks  on  it.  It  is  so 
small  and  far  removed  from  the  other  islands  that  it  is  not  easily  made  out.  The  ^eatest 
changes  in  the  bank  occvu"  in  that  part  of  it  between  Point  Franklin  and  Peard  Bay,  of  which 
what  is  above  water  is  merely  a  narrow  strip  of  sand.  - 

In  the  vicinity  of  Seahorse  Islands  the  water  is  shoal,  especially  off  the  openings  and  Point 
Franklin.  Off  Point  Franklin  a  shoal  makes  out  several  miles  northward  and  northeastward, 
and  vessels  rounding  the  point  should  give  it  a  berth  of  4  to  5  miles. 

Peard  Bay,  eastward  of  Point  Franklin,  is  a  deep  bight,  which  is  often  used  by  whalers 
in  heavy  southerly  and  southwest  winds,  and  for  protection  from  ice  when  it  sets  toward  the 
shore.  The  bottom  of  the  bay  is  regular,  and  the  soundings  decrease  gradually  to  the  shore. 
The  water  is  deeper  along  the  mainland  than  on  the  south  side  along  the  sand  spit  making  out 
to  Point  Franklin. 

The  coast  from  Peard  Bay  to  Cape  Smyth  is  a  line  of  mud  cliffs  25  to  70  feet  high,  being 
highest  at  what  is  called  Skull  CUff.  From  this  point  they  become  gradually  lower  to  Cape 
Smyth,  where  they  end.  The  coast  curves  regularly  northward,  and  there  are  no  projecting 
points.  The  cliffs  are  broken  by  numej-ous  small  rivers.  There  are  beaches  at  the  mouths  of 
the  rivers,  but  little  or  none  along  the  face  of  the  cliffs. 

Cape  Smyth  is  not  a  projecting  point,  and  can  not  be  distinguished  as  a  cape.  There 
is  a  large  native  village  at  the  end  of  the  mud  cliffs  at  this  point.  The  United  States  signal 
station  and  refuge  station,  formerly  here,  are  not  now  maintained,  but  there  is  a  whaling  station 
conducted  by  wliite  men. 

From  Cape  Smyth  to  Elson  Bay  the  coast  is  low  with  a  grassy  plain  back  of  it;  but  from 
the  head  of  Elson  Bay  to  Point  Barrow  the  coast  is  a  narrow  sand  spit. 

Offshore  from  Refuge  Inlet  to  the  head  of  Elson  Bay  the  water  is  deep,  and  soundings 
of  15  fathoms  are  found  about  2.  miles  from  the  land.  The  water  then  shoals  evenly  to  7 
fathoms  at  about  1  mile  from  shore.  The  depths  then  lessen  rapidly  to  2 J^  to  3  fathoms  about 
^  mile  offshore,  where  there  is  a  slight  ridge  shoved  up  by  the  ice,  and  which  in  the  early  part 
.  of  the  season  is  always  marked  by  heavy  ground  ice.  Inside  and  close  to  this  ridge  the  water 
deepens  again  to  3  to  4  fathoms,  and  vessels  seek  this  inside  passage  for  protection  from  the 
ice  when  necessary.  The  ridge  ends  in  a  2  J^-fathom  shoal  about  1 3^  miles  offshore  where  the 
high  land  ends  and  the  sand  spit  begins  at  the  head  of  Elson  Bay.  From  this  point  to  Point 
Barrow,  depths  of  3  H  to  4  fathoms  can  be  carried  very  close  up  to  the  sand  spit,  and  there 
is  apparently  no  ridge  in  the  bottom  as  in  that  southward. 

At  Point  Barrow,  latitude  71°  23'  31"  N.,  longitude  156°  21'  30"  W.,  the  most  northern 
point  of  Alaska,  the  sand  spit  forming  the  coast  turns  abruptly  eastward.  There  is  a  native 
village  on  the  end  of  the  point.  Directly  off  the  point  the  water  is  fairly  bold,  and  3  fathoms 
can  be  carried  to  within  J^  mile  of  the  shore.  Farther  offshore  the  deepest  water  of  tliis  part 
of  the  Arctic  Ocean  is  found.  On  rounding  the  point  eastward  the  water  becomes  shoal,  and 
the  coast  can  seldom  be  approached  anywhere  closer  than  2  miles.  About  2  miles  east  of  Point 
Barrow  is  Moore  Channel,  the  entrance  to  Elson  Bay,  where  H.  M.  S.  Plover  wintered  in 
1852-53-54.  A  shoal  with  a  least  depth  of  2  fathoms  makes  off  from  the  point  on  the  east 
side  of  the  channel,  and  extends  westward,  from  H  to  ^  mile  off  the  sand  spit,  and  ends  nearly 
opposite  the  native  village  on  Point  Barrow.  Inside  the  shoal  there  is  a  channel  leading  to 
Moore  Channel,  with  nothing  less  than  3  fathoms,  and  deeper  water  in  Moore  Channel.  This 
channel  is  often  used  as  an  anchorage  for  protection  from  the  ice,  as  heavy  ice  grounds  on  the 
outer  shoal. 

Tide?. — The  mean  rise  and  fall  at  Point  Barrow  is  0.4  foot. 


iZNTD  ex: 


A.  Page. 

Acherk  Harbor 7 

Agamgik  Bay 21 

Aiktak  Island 15 

Akun  Cove 17 

AkunHead 17 

Akun  Island 17 

Akun  Strait 18 

Akutan  Harbor 18 

Akutan  Island 17-19 

Akutan  Pass 14,19 

Akutan  Peak 17 

Aleks  Rock 6 

Ajnak  Island 29 

Amugul  Bay 21 

Anderson  Rock 6 

Apoon  Pass 50-51 

Arch  Point 11 

Arctic  Ocean 5S-62 

Ayatanak  Island 16 

Avatanak  Strait 16 

B. 

Baby  Islands 19 

Baby  Pass 19 

BalukaHill 35 

Battery  Point 18 

Beaver  Inlet 20 

Bering  Sea : 25-53 

Bering,  Village 52 

Besboro  Island 45 

Beulah  Island 44 

Biorka  Island 20 

Bird  Island , 10 

Black  Point - 45 

Black  Rock 34 

Blossom  Shoals 61 

Bristol  Bay 28-35 

Brundage  Head 20 

C. 

Cape  Beaufort 61 

Cape  Blossom 58-59 

Cape  Cheerful 22 

Cape  Chibukak 43 

CapeChitnak .'- 43 

Cape  Constantino 34 

Cape  Corwin 39 

Cape  Darby 46 

Cape  Denbigh - 45 

CapeEtolin 39 

Cape  Glazenap 29 

CapeGreig 31 

Cape  Kalek-ta 22 

Cape  Kialegak 43 

Cape  Krusenstem 59 

Cape  Kutuzof 31 

Cape  Lazaref 11 

Cape  Lisbume 60 

Cape  Lutke U 

Cape  Manning - 39 

Cape  Mendenhall 39 

Cape  Menshlkof 31 


Page. 

Cape  Mohican 38 

Cape  Mordvinof 28 

Cape  Morgan 18 

Cape  Newenham 35 

Cape  Nome 51 

Cape  Pankof 9 

Cape  Peirce 35 

Cape  Prince  of  Wales 56-57 

Cape  Prince  of  Wales  Shoal 57 

Cape  Romanzof 41 

Cape  Sabine 61 

Cape  Sarlchef 11,28 

Cape  Sarichef  lighthouse 12 

Cape  Seniavin 31 

Cape  Sepplngs . . . '. 60 

Cape  Smyth 62 

Cape  Thompson 6o 

Cape  Upright 40 

Cape  Vancouver 40 

Cape  Vancouver  to  Apoon  Pass 40-42 

Cape  York 52 

Carolyn  Island 46 

Carter,  village 35 

Caton  Harbor 8 

Caton  Island 6 

Cave  Point 28 

Chagvan  Bay 35 

Chamlsso  Anchorage 58 

Chamlsso  Island 58 

Cheenik * 

Chlstiakof  Island ,. 31 

Choris  Peninsula 58 

Clark  Point ^4 

Coal  Bluff ^ 30 

Coast: 

Cape  Krusenstewi  to  Cape  Sepplngs 60 

Cape  Nome  to  Bering  Strait 51-52 

Cape  Nome  to  Cape  Rodney 51 

Cape  Rodney  to  Cape  Douglass 51 

Cape  Vancouver  to  Apoon  Pass 40-42 

Hotham  Inlet  to  Cape  Krusenstem 59 

Port  Molier  to  Kuskokwim  River 31-35 

Rocky  Point  to  Cape  Nome 47 

St.  Michael  to  Apoon  Pass 49-50 

St.  Michael  Bay  to  Cape  Darby 45-46 

Unlniak  Island,  from  Otter  Cove  to  Cape  Sarichef 10-12 

Unlmak  Pass  to  Port  Molier 28-29 

Constantine  Bay 22,24 

Cripple  Creek ^b 

Crooked  Island ** 

Crow  Reef - 3" 

Crowley  Rock * 

Currents,  Arctic  Ocean 56 

Currents,  Bering  Sea 2ft-27 

». 

Deep  Bay 21 

Deerlng 58 

Derbin  Strait 1* 

Diomede  Islands -5J 

Directions: 

Akutan  Pass.; 1' 

Isanotskl  Strait  to  St.  Michael 48-49 

63 


64 


INDKX. 


Direotlons— Ctontlnued.  •  Page. 

Port  Clare  nee 53 

UnalaskaBay 24-25 

Unalga  Pass 20 

Unga  Island  to  Cape  Kalekta 12 

Unimak  Pass 14-15 

Dnlmak  Pass  or  Cape  Kalekta  to  Norton  Sound  or  Port  Clar- 
ence   47-4S 

Doe  Point , 30 

Dora  Harbor 10 

P  utoh  Harbor , 23 

m. 

Eagle  Rock,  Herendeen  Bay , 30 

Eagle  Rock,  Sarniak  Islands 7 

East  Anchor  Cove 10 

East  Cape,  Siberia 57 

East  Cape,  St.  Lawrence  Island 43 

Egg  Island,  Norton  Sound 45 

Egg  Island  Passage 20 

Egg  Island,  Unalga  Pass 20 

English  Bay 21 

Entran'e  Point 29 

Erskine  Bay 21 

Eschscholtz  Bay 58 

F. 

("airway  Rbok 57 

Final  Bay 21 

Fog,  BeringSea 1 27 

Fox  Islands  and  Passes 12-25 

a. 

Garden  Cove '...  36 

General  directions.    (See  Directions.) 

Glory  o(  Russia  Cape 40 

Golotnin  Bay 46 

Golofnin  Sound 46 

Goodnews  Bay 35 

Grantiey  Harbor 52 

H. 

Hagemeister  Strait 34 

Hagemeister  Island 34 

Hague  Channel 30 

HaUtiieRock 30 

Hall  Island 40 

Harbor  Point 29 

Hennig  Rock 6 

Herendeen  Bay 29-30 

High  Island 34 

Hogback .'. 50 

Hothara  Inlet 59 

Hotsprings  Bay 18 

I. 

Ice,  Arctic  Ocean 55-66 

Ice,  BeringSea 26 

Icy  Cape 61 

IkatanBay 8-9 

Ikatan  Peninsula 9-10 

Ikatan  Point 9 

niuliuk 23 

IliuIiukBay 22 

Uiuliuk  Harbor 23 

[liuliukReef 25 

Inner  Signal 20 

[sanotski  Mountain '. .13 

Isanotskl  Strait 8-9 

IzembekBay 29 

J. 

Johnsons  Bay 7 

Johnston  Ctiannel 30 

Johnston  Hill 32 

K. 

Kalekta  Bay 22 

Kaligagan  Island l6 

Kiktaguk 45 

King  Island 52 


Page. 

Klngegan h7 

KlsselenBay , 21 

Kiwallk 58 

Klwallk  River 58 

Kotlik 50 

Kotzebue  Sound 58-69 

Kowak  River 69 

Kudiakof  Islands , 29 

Kudobin  Islands 29 

Kuskokwira  River 35 

Kvichak  River 32 

Lava  Point ; 18 

Lenard  Rock 6 

Lida  Anchorage 7 

Lost  Harbor 17 

M. 

Makushin  Cape 24 

Makushin  Volcano 13, 20, 24 

Marryat  Inlet 60 

Midway  Reef 30 

Mine  Harbor 30 

Moore  Channel 62 

Morzhovoi  Village 9 

Murphys  Crack 7 

N. 

Naknek  River 32 

Nash  Harbor 40 

Nichols  Hills 33 

Noatak  River 59 

Nome 51 

North  Anchorage 36 

North  Head,  Akutan  Island 18 

North  Hill 37 

Northeast  Cape,  St.  Lawrence  Island 42 

Northeast  Point,  St.  Paul  Island 37 

Northeast  Point,  Sannak  Island 7 

Northeast  Harbor 7 

Norton  Bay 46 

Norton  Sound 44-47 

Nunivak  Island 38-40 

Nushagak  River 32 

O. 

Old  Man  Rocks 20 

Oneida  Rock 6 

Otter  Cove 10 

Otter  Island 36 

Outer  Signal 20 

P. 

Pankof  Breaker 9 

Pastoliak  River 60 

Pavlof  Harbor , 7 

Peard  Bay 62 

Peterson  Bay 8 

Pikmiktalik  River 49 

Pinnacle  Island 40 

Poa  Island 17 

Pogromni  Volcano 13,  28 

PoUit  Barrow 62 

Point  Belcher 61 

Pohit  Divide 29 

Point  Franklin 62 

Pohit  Hope -  60 

Point  Lay 61 

Point  Protection , 33 

Point  Romanof 49 

Point  Spencer 52, 63 

Portage  Bay.    (See  Chagvan  Bay.) 

Port  Clarence 52-53 

Port  Heiden 31 

PortMoUer - 29-30 

Port  Safety 47 

Pribilof  Islands 35-38 

Priest  Rock 22 

Princes  Head 27 


INDEX 


65 


Princess  Rock 

Promontory  Cove. 
Promontory  Hill.. 

Puffin  Islet 

Punuk  Islands 


Reef  Point 

Ridge  Point 

Rook  Point,  St.  Michael  Island . 

Roclcy  Point  to  Cape  Nome 

Rocky  Point,  Norton  Sound 

Rocljy  Point,  Uiialaska  Bay. . . 

Rootok  Island 

Rootok  Strait 

Round  IslEind 

Rukavltsle  Cape 


Page. 
8 
11 
11 
58 
« 

37 
18 
44 
47 
46 
25 
16 
16 
34 
11 


Hailing  Directions.    (Sec  Dirwlions.) 

St.  George  Island. : 36 

St.  Lawrence  Island 42-44 

St.  Matthew  Island -  -  -  40 

St.  Michael 44-46 

St.  Michael  Canal 49 

St.  Michael  Island 44 

St.  Michael  to  Cape  Darliy 45-46 

St.  Paul  Island 37-38 


9 

6-8 

6 

40 

41 

U 

11 

; 62 

U 

31 

26 

59 

17 

30 

Shlshaldin  Volcano 13,29 

.Shlshmaref  Inlet 

Signals,  The 

Sledge  Island 

Solomon 

Southeast  Cape 

Southwest  Point 

Strait  Bay 

Stuart  Island 

Summer  Bay 


SanMn  Island 

Sannak  Islands 

Sannak  Mountain 

Sarichef  Strait 

.Scammon  Bay 

Scotch  Cap 

Scotch  Cap  lighthouse. 

Seahorse  Islands 

Seal  Cape 

Seal  Islands 

Second  Priest 

Selawlk  Lake 

Seredka  Bay 

smngle  Point 


Tanaskan  Bay. 
Tangik  Island.. 
Tanginak  Islet. 
Teller 


Page 

Tidal  Currents,  Fox  Islands  Passes 13-14 

Tides : S 

TigaldaBay 16 

Tigalda  Island ,.... 15 

Tolstoi  Point , 45 

Tonki  Point 37 

Topkok  Head 47 

Traders  Cove 9 

Triangle  Island 39 

Troitz  Island 6 

Tusearora  Rock 25 

Twins,  The 34 

V. 

Udagak  Bay 21 

Udagak  Strait 21 

Udakta 23 

Udamat  Bay 21 

Ugadaga  Bay 21 

Ugaguk  River 32 

Ugamak  Island 15 

Ugamak  Strait 15 

Ugashik  River - 31 

Ulakta  Head 22,  24 

Unalaklik  River 40 

Unalga  Cove 19 

Unalga  Island 19 

Unalga  Pass 19-20 

Unalaska 23 

Unalaska  Bay 22-26 

Unalaska  Island 20 

Uniktali  Bay 21 

UnlmakBay 11 

Unimak  Cove 7 

Unlmak  Island,  south  coast  of 10-12 

Unimak  Pass 11-12.  13, 14-15 

UriliaBay 28 

V. 

Variation  of  the  Compass 5 

Vulcan  Cove 18 

W. 

Wainwright  Inlet 61 

Wales.    (See  Kingegan.) 

Walrus  Island,  Pribilof  Islands 37 

Walrus  Islands,  Bristol  Bay 34 

Weather,  Arctic  Ocean 56 

Weather,  Bering  Sea S 27-2S 

West  Anchor  Cove 10 

Whale  Island 44 

Wislow  Island 24 

Y. 

Yukon  Delta 41-42 

Yukon  Flats 42 

Z. 

Zapadnl  Bay 36 


60835—09- 


o 


LIST  OF  COAST  PILOTS  PUBLISHED  BY  THE  COAST  AND  GEODETIC  SURVEY. 

Price. 

U.  S.  Coast  Pilot,  Atlantic  Coast,  Parts  I-II,  from  St.  Croix  River  to  Cape  Ann |3.  50 

U.  S.  Coast  Pilot,  Atlantic  Coast,  Part  III,  from  Cape  Ann  to  Point  Judith 50 

U.  S.  Coast  Pilot,  Atlantic  Coast,  Part  IV,  from  Point  Judith  to  New  York,  including  Long  Island  Sound 50 

U.  B.  Coast  Pilot,  Atlantic  Coast,  Part  V,  from  New  York  to  Chesapeake  Bay  Entrance 50 

U.  S.  Coast  PUot,  Atlantic  Coast,  Part  VI,  Chesapeake  Bay  and  Tributaries 50 

U.  S.  Coast  Pilot,  Atlantic  Coast,  Part  VII,  from  Chesapeake  Bay  Entrance  to  Key  West 50 

U.  S.  Coast  Pilot,  Atlantic  Coast,  Part  VIII,  Gulf  of  Mexico,  from  Key  West  to  the  Rio  Grande 50 

U.  S.  Coast  Pilot,  Pacific  Coast,  California,  Oregon,  and  Washington 50 

U.  S.  Coast  Pilot,  Pacific  Coast,  Alaska,  Part  I,  from  Dixon  Entrance  to  Yakutat  Bay 50 

U.  S.  Coast  Pilot,  West  Indies,  Porto  Rico 50 


COAST  PILOT  NOTES,  ALASKA. 

Bulletin  No.  38. — Prince  William  Sound,  Cook  Inlet,  Kodiak  Island,  and  route  from  lliialat<ka  to  Chignik. 
(.'oast  Pilot  Notes  on  Bering  Sea  and  Arctic  Ocean. 
Coast  Pilot  Notes  from  Yakutat  Bay  to  Cook  Inlet. 


SAILING  DIRECTIONS,  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS. 

Section  I. — North  and  wests  coasts  of  Luzon  and  adjacent  Islands. 

Section  II. — Southwest  and  south  coast  of  Luzon  and  adjacent  islands. 

Section  III. — Coasts  of  Panay,  Negros,  Cebu,  and  adjacent  islands. 

Section  IV. — Coasts  of  Samar  and  Leyte  and  the  east  coast  of  Luzon. 

Section  V. — Coasts  of  Mindanao  and  adjacent  islands. 

Sections  VI  and  VII/— Mindoro  Strait,  Palawan  Island,  and  Sulu  Sea  and  Archipelago. 


FOR  LIBRARY   CATALOGUE   CARDS. 

ILoaf  can  be  removed  and  each  of  the  entries  below  pasted  on  separate  catalogue  cards,  the  first 
for  author  entry  and  the  second  for  the  subject  entry.  For  the  second  any  desired  subject  heading 
must  be  supplied.] 


Coast  and  geodetic  survey. 

Alaska.     Coast  pilot  notes  on  Bering  sea  and  Arctic  ocean.     November  20, 
1908.     Washington:  Government  printing  office.     1908. 

67  pp.  5  views.  30  cm.  [Prepared  by  Mr.  Herbert  C.  Graves,  under  the  direction 
of^J.  J.  Gilbert,  assistant.  Coast  and  geodetic  survey,  Inspector  of  hydrography 
and  topography.] 


Coast  and  geodetic  survey. 
Alaska.     Coast  pilot  notes  on  Bering  sea  and  Arctic  ocean.     November  20, 
1908.     Washington:  Government  printing  office.     1908. 

67  pp.  5  views.  30  cm.  [Prepared  by  Mr.  Herbert  C.  Graves,  under  the  direction 
of  J.  J.  Gilbert,  assistant.  Coast  and  geodetic  survey.  Inspector  of  hydrography 
and  topography.] 


SLIP  FOR  LIST  AND   CATALOGUE. 

LIST   ENTRY. 

Alaska.    Coast  pilot  notes  on  Bering  sea  and  Arctic  ocean.    November  20, 
1908.     67  pp.     5  views.     30  cm. 


^O2I-j00;„.7 


.■33 


m 


